#3 Gray 62 bodywork and paint (2 Viewers)

[tmxmotorsports]

This is going to be a good one ...

I agree

 

[kelly saad]

 

[kelly saad]

Cut a test piece, bent it, and ran it through the shrinker/stretcher and it looked promising. Flattened it out and measured it. I can break 2 bends, then shrink, then change it over to stretch. Then, finally on the last bend, I will have to run it through the bead roller. Shouldn’t be too bad I hope. I cut 12 pieces so I can screw up plenty of times.

 

[kelly saad]

Change of plans. Rolling 100% though bead roller. Looks ok for the first try. Hopefully I can get this cowl welded up tomorrow.

 

[kelly saad]

I will make another piece and see how clean I can get it to look. The first one is usable but not how I want to finish it. Then I will move on to the 2 other rust hols on the cowl.

 

[kelly saad]

Second attempt. Both are usable. I made a template and took measurements where all the bends go. I deduced 1/4” off my template so my plasma will cut the correct arc. If I didn’t do that then the arc would be off. It would be like a different radius that is 1/4” too small for example.

 

[Zack1978]

Job well done! The metal work is impressive to say the least. I should send my 87 FJ60 to AZ to have the rust repair completed. I thought my 60 was rusted badly, but the truck you're working on may be very close to the condition of mine! I even have a new "used" pass side rear quarter sitting in my basement.

 

[kelly saad]

Cowl parts are done. There were three rusty spots that had to be cut out. All the rust was from the windshield side of the metal. Underneath it was clean. This tells me that majority of this windshield rust is most likely from windshields being replaced and paint getting scratched during removal. Not all of them but I’m sure is a leading cause to most of this rust. They all have an arc, even the center. I think I was able to get them very close.

 

[kelly saad]

I can’t weld them on tonight because I need my dremel tool from my garage at home. I sand blasted all of it but some hard, black rust needs to be carefully ground out.

the good thing about 115 degree weather in Arizona is that the sweat dries before it can drip off your head!!!! So really, it never feels like I’m sweating.

 

[kelly saad]

Doglegs. These came with the quarter panels and they don’t fit at all. I had to use my shrinker to fit them properly. They have about 1/2” gap between the inner fender well and the dogleg lip. I added this little end piece so it will match the factory looking seam with a recessed grove between the quarter and dogleg.

 

[kelly saad]

A good fit

 

[kelly saad]

Not bad. There are a few tiny pin holes but I don’t want to burn holes through with my welder at this point so I will fill them. On parts like this, I always try to make my cut on a high ridge. This way I can fill the entire seam with welds and grind them down smooth so there isn’t body filler. It’s a touchy process grinding because it’s only 20 gauge steel, so I use 120 on a flap disk and take my time, slowly.

 

[kelly saad]

 

[kelly saad]

Dogleg #2. Looked perfect before I cut it off. See the rust that was growing, hidden behind. The inner fender well lip looks good though!

 

[kelly saad]

Sand blasted and soaked with POR15 metal prep.

 

[kelly saad]

#2 dog leg done

 

[gonzopancho]

Sand blasting is the best way to remove rust and preserve the existing metal that is salvageable (IMO)

Well, it’s a way, but it’s pretty abrasive and very messy, especially outside of a cabinet. Some folks use dry ice In an abrasive blasting process, which leaves a lot less mess, and is less abrasive.

 

[kelly saad]

A few pin holes and I will blow through if I weld anymore. Decided to lead in the area. Looks great and it’s lead not body filler. Needs to be finished and sanded. I will do more lead work tomorrow, I’m tired.

 

[kelly saad]

Well, it’s a way, but it’s pretty abrasive and very messy, especially outside of a cabinet. Some folks use dry ice In an abrasive blasting process, which leaves a lot less mess, and is less abrasive.

It works so well for me. It cleans the rust to bare, clean metal and saves so much time. I have a small pressure tank blaster that I use with very fine coal slag in. It doesn’t get hot and has never warped the metal. It leaves a very nice texture behind, and pretty smooth. I just sweep up and pull out the leaf blower then I’m back to business. It’s well worth it.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Killer work man. Keep it up.