3.4L water pump/timing belt (from Chat)

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I took my wifes 01 4runner into have the balljoints replaced as part of a recall campaign and while they were working on it they saw the water pump leaking "a little more than a seep." They say that not only does the water pump need replacing, but that when that leaks, it leaks onto the timing belt which then needs to be changed as well. I'd like to do the work myself, but I've never tried doing something like this, most complex thing I've done is the birf job on an 80.

While Im committed to replacing the water pump, how much leakage makes it critical(do it now), versus it can wait a week or so?

Given the right tools and the information is this something that requires much skill/technique? I'm not as concerned about doing the water pump replacement as I am the timing belt.
 

Cube Dweller

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copied my response from chat so someone that replies doesn't repeat.

We did the timing belt and H20 pump on my brother's 95 Taco a month ago. It's not difficult but there are some details in terms of keeping everything at TDC and aligning the belt. We had the factory service manual which is very good. Recent experience with aftermarket manuals such as Haynes has been poor. You'll also need a SST to pull the crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer and another to remove a camshaft pulley. I fabbed them up in the garage with some plate, tubing, drill press and a welder. A big pin spanner might work on the cam pulley. You'll also need a puller to pull the harmonic balancer.

Someone else may chime in with a way to do it w/out the SST, but I don't know how. For a beginner I would plan on a full w/e, assuming you have all the parts. I preordered them from CDan. One of the tensioner pulleys was making noise so we replaced them both as my bro didn't want to deal with it again for another 90K miles. This was probably overkill. My local dealer stocked them.

Good luck
 
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Did you only have to fab up a tool for holding the pulleys still, or did you have to create some sort of puller? Also do you have any pictures?
 

Cube Dweller

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Sure, I'll take pictures, will post tomorrow.

Basically a big pin spanner for the crankshaft pulley, a smaller pin spanner for a cam pulley and a pulley/harmonic balancer puller from Harbor Freight(on sale for like $6).
 

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home brew sst's

First couple are shots of the pin spanner that is used on the crank pulley. The bolts are 3" between centers. I cut a hole in a piece of 5/16 plate, drilled two hole for the 8mm(i think) bolt, then welded the heads of the bolt to the plate and to a piece of 1-1/2 square tubing. We stuck the spanner on the crankshaft puller to hold it, then stuck a piece of pipe into the square tubing. The impact just bounced on the crank bolt and leaving the car in gear with the wheels chocked wasn't enough to hold it when trying to loosen it w/ a breaker bar and cheater. Thus the "pin spanner" to hold the pulley- one guy holds the pulley, the other leans on a breaker bar with a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt.

EDIT: BE CAREFUL THE BOLTS DON'T GO TOO FAR INTO THE PULLEY! The holes are threaded inside so you can use the puller- if you damage the threads inside the pulley you may be totally screwed!!!
hb tool 1.jpg
hb tool 2.jpg
 
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Cube Dweller

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2nd round are shots of the tool to hold the cam pulley- basically a couple 1/2 bolts bolted to a piece of unistrut. We wedged the bolts between the webs on the right pulley. We didn't have to remove the left one though I believe the FSM states you need to. Disclaimer: do whatever Mr. Yota says.
cam tool 1.jpg
cam tool 2.jpg
 

Cube Dweller

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Finally, the puller from HF. I wasn't kidding when I said it was $6. It bugs me to buy this stuff for quality and political reasons, but for the amount of times I'll use it I couldn't justify buying a real one. This is used to pull the crankshaft pulley off the crankshaft.
hf puller.jpg
 
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I'm trying to get mine off too - it's a 3L diesel. This sounds stupid, but Although I am sure it is Left hand thread, I'm not sure, if you know what I mean. So what is it, left hand or right hand???

KSY
 
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you don't have to remove the cam gear when doing a timing belt on a v6. when removing the crank pulley just use two pry bars one on each side of the pulley and wiggle the pulley side to side and up and down.
 

KLF

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I'll only add that you need to be very sure to torque the crank bolt to the factory spec, I think it's like 180 ft-lbs, something like that, pretty high. If you don't, it will loosen up and fall out, then the pulley will walk itself off the end of the crank, tossing the belts, leaving you stranded on the highway. Had to go rescue a friend that had this happen on the 3.4L in his T100 right after he did the timing belt on it.

ps: this is the wrong section, you might be better moving this post to the '95+ section.
 

Jetboy

 
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What I've done with timing belts in the past is to mark the pulleys and the belt coming off. Then transfer the marks to the new belt then replace and make sure the transfer marks match again. You have to be very careful to transfer correctly and mark properly in the valley/peak with something you can see well. I haven't done a 4runner belt, but I've done 4 that way including the dohc 5cyl in our Acura which was a total PITA and a Honda 4cyl with twin timing belts. Never had an issue that way. You can just count around the teeth to transfer the marks. If the belt is correct, it's got the same number of teeth.


Also IIRC all Toyota's with belts are non-interference motors so if it did break, while it would suck, it probably wouldn't scatter your motor.
 
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Also IIRC all Toyota's with belts are non-interference motors so if it did break, while it would suck, it probably wouldn't scatter your motor.
This is not correct. All of the toyota U series engines (1uzfe, 2uzfe, 3uzfe) are interference engines with timing belts. The 90-94 1uzfe was not, but everything past that was. You will find these engines in the LS 400, LS 430, 100 series LC, LX 470, Sequoia and Tundra.

There may be others, but these are the only ones that I know of for sure.
 
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Also IIRC all Toyota's with belts are non-interference motors so if it did break, while it would suck, it probably wouldn't scatter your motor.
Not quite.
All the 3.4's are non interference, though.
the 3mzfe, later uz engines are interference.
 
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Did this a while back on our 97 4Runner, Here are some helpful sites.

Timing Belt
Toyota Maintenance: 3.4L V6 Timing Belt Replacement This one was the most helpful in terms of what you should remove, and what you dont need to depending on your situation.

you also need a tool to compress the tensioner pulley unless you want a few extra hours of work removing crap. I got mine online for a few bucks.

I would highly recommend taking your time. reading everything you can a few times and then get into it.

While I was in there I chose to bypass the stock transmission cooler and replace it with an aftermarket one. I had read on a few boards where the stock trans cooler leaked into the coolant and folks were getting a strawberry milkshake in their transmissions.

Just something to consider.

My 4runner had 150K miles when I did the work. I also switched over to high mileage trans fluid after the change.
 
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when you do this take the time to do a write up please. I'll be doing this soon in my wifes new 96 4 runner with the 3.4L v-6. Good luck.
 
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Since you guys dredged this one back up...:hmm:
The timing belt has to be removed to change the waterpump. If you're in there anyway, it's best to do them both. Parts are cheap, doing the job twice sux.:p
 
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