2wd to 4x4 SAS 1986 Toyota Chinook camper build (1 Viewer)

[Combat Chuck]

This is a project I'm considering, is to disassemble the guage pod of my truck, and slip in an electronic speedo from either a first-gen taco, or an electronic mini, since I have a late first-gen, and speedo cables for these rigs are hard to find, and mine died a while ago.

 

[meigsrock]

Are you going to switch out the whole cluster or just the spedo portion? Let me know how it goes, what you use and if it fits directly in or if lots of mods are made.

Keep me posted on this one.

 

[meigsrock]

I finaly got another chance to work on the truck today. I have a couple more days off so I should be able to make some good progress on it this weekend.

I picked up a 1985-1988 4x4 cross member a week or so ago and I had to cut a section of the exhaust out because it dropped below the frame rail right where the new cross member was going. So add one more thing to the to-do list.

Yesterday I cut some brackets and gussets to weld up to the frame for the new cross member. I also cut out the rest of the old 2wd cross member.

Today I welded in the brackets and gussets, drilled holes for it and finally got it all bolted up. Looks just like a stock 4x4 cross member now.

I also built a jig and started welding my front spring hanger today.

I also put oil and antifreeze in it tonight. I still need to drain out the tranny and transfercase fluid and put in new gear oil.

I will try to get some new photos up of the progress tomarrow. I hope I can find my camera.......i misplaced it.

 

[85+92]

If I sand the brown off back to white it would be red white and blue. haha.

red white and blue eh?

 

[meigsrock]

Red white and blue looks pretty good.

Got rained out yesterday but made progress today.
Finished bolting up tranny, and put the clutch slave cylinder in and hooked it up.

I welded in a spacer peice of 1/8 metal up front on the cross member to fill in the gap and then put on my front spring hanger. Just tacked in now for mock up.

I put on the spring hanger portion and tacked it into place.

I built a 2" hitch reciever into the center so I can put a recovery strap, removable winch, hitch bike rack, or hitch lugage rack in the front to carry extra stuff like firewood or gas etc.

 

[meigsrock]

I put the axle and springs under for mock up to see how things line up, where they fit, hit etc. and to find where I need to drill for the front spring rear hanger.

Everything clears but I decided I need to move the axle forward a little bit more for extra clearance with the oil pan when the suspension compresses and the axle moves back. It will also center it in the wheel well a little better. I am going to move it forward 1/2" forward so the back edges is flush with the 2" square tube.

I also got more lift than I need so I think I am going to notch the 2x2 tube and install the spring hanger into the tube. I will cut out a 1" deep section (maybe more) to put the spring hanger into so that it will lower the truck a bit. Right now I could probably put 33's up front but that is way too much for this truck I think.

The axle is wider and the tire stickes out the side. With the 29" tires on FJ60 rims I have about 6.5" of clearance between bottom of fender and top of tire. With the mag rims and 31" tires I have about 5" of clearance which is still plenty of clearance. I will only have about 3-4" up travel before things start hitting the oil pan so fender clearance does not appear to be a problem.

I think I may try to get fender flairs or fiberglass fenders that are a bit wider. They would match the body well if I get the right ones. I will re-do the fenders, grille, blinkers, headlights, and radiator support this winter or next spring. Then I can get in and fix up the rust at that time too.

 

[meigsrock]

It will likley gain a little more height because right now the rear end of front spring has no shackel on it and is right on the frame so I will need to lower the front hanger a bit. Should I lower the front bracket 1" or 2"? In the photos with the tires on the weight of the truck is on the axle and suspension is compressed.

I will put the other painted springs on for installation and turn them around once I re do the front hanger and install it all.

I like the way the 31's look but would probably need to re-gear to 4:56 for those. Pluss the back spacing is too deep on the mag wheels. I would need to install longer studs and 1/4" spacers to clear the tie rod ends where they rub. Maybe bigger tires next year. I plan on rebuilding the front axle this winter and installing propper gears if needed and a locker or limited slip diff that is sitting in the shead. Right now the FJ62 axle has 4:10 gears. The new rear end going in will also have 4:10 gears for now.

 

[KayakPanic]

nice progress! cool project.

I like the side-view mirror location, reminds me of when I used to drive school busses...

 

[meigsrock]

I hate those mirrors. They are hard to use and on one side the mirror is cracked in half and fallen out. They work but suck. The wind catches them and when you look at them when going down the road they are vibrating around.

They will be replaced as soon as I get around to finding something that fits on the door. I want some that are off of a toyota motorhome.

 

[Bogo]

A friend got semi mirrors for his full sized pickup camper setup. He didn't get the cheep ones, just very sturdy ones. They are even breakaway, heated and motorized.

 

[meigsrock]

I looked at a catalouge of mirrors at a trailer parts store but did not find anything I loved that looked like it would fit well.


I put in another 8 hours today, I hate re-doing stuff, but I had to. I lowered the front bracket by 1" by notching it and welding the spring eye plate in. I will eventually cut off the section that is sticking out the front but for now I am leaving it. I also need to add a couple gussets and cap the end also.

I put the spring in and notched the body mount in prep for cutting the hole for the shackel mount hole. I may have to rent a plasma cutter for this task, or buy a hole saw the right size, but I know a plasma cutter would be better and way faster.

I spent a redicilous 4 hours cutting the rest of the IFS off the frame. I definatlly should have rented a plasma cutter today for this and the frame holes.

 

[meigsrock]

Ok here is the front with the rims and tires I plan on using on it for now sitting with the weight of the vehicle on it. Still no shackel on the front yet so I will probably gain .5-1" of height back in the font giving me 5.5-6" clearance between top of tire and bottom of fender.

I love the landcruiser axle but holy is it heavy. If my gas milage goes to crap it will be because of extra wind resistance of a taller truck and the extra weight. Only going to have a couple of inches of up travel before it hits the oil pan I think. Bump stops a must!

I put the hubs on today but one is not working, I cant get it to turn......not a big deal right now but will eventually have to be addressed. I have it installed with the gears unlocked but the hub is in the locked position on the outside. hmmm?

I also dropped the rear axle out tonight. shackels and u-bolts had to be cut off. I drilled the rubber out of the rear of the spring to get the cut off bolts out and now need to do the top/frame portion.

I wire wheeled the front spring clamps and painted them with the new u-bolts. It will have to do for now untill I can afford the u-bolt flip kit from man-a-free. Maybe this winter when I pull the axle again to rebuild it and install the locker.

Hopefully I can get the rear finished up tomarrow and back on the ground.

 

[Bogo]

I love the landcruiser axle but holy is it heavy. If my gas milage goes to **** it will be because of extra wind resistance of a taller truck and the extra weight. Only going to have a couple of inches of up travel before it hits the oil pan I think. Bump stops a must!

I've seen mention of getting different oil pans when going SAS. Note: it will also effect the oil pickup tube.

 

[Bogo]

A friend got semi mirrors for his full sized pickup camper setup. He didn't get the cheep ones, just very sturdy ones. They are even breakaway, heated and motorized.

Talked to him last night. They were bus mirrors off of an intercity coach. He has them mounted to the camper body so they come off with the camper when he takes it off the truck. He made heavy duty brackets for the mirrors to attach to. The regular mirrors are still on the truck.

Kind of like these.

 

[bkg]

I looked at a catalouge of mirrors at a trailer parts store but did not find anything I loved that looked like it would fit well.


I put in another 8 hours today, I hate re-doing stuff, but I had to. I lowered the front bracket by 1" by notching it and welding the spring eye plate in. I will eventually cut off the section that is sticking out the front but for now I am leaving it. I also need to add a couple gussets and cap the end also.

I put the spring in and notched the body mount in prep for cutting the hole for the shackel mount hole. I may have to rent a plasma cutter for this task, or buy a hole saw the right size, but I know a plasma cutter would be better and way faster.

I spent a redicilous 4 hours cutting the rest of the IFS off the frame. I definatlly should have rented a plasma cutter today for this and the frame holes.

I really like this build... but please... please... please... get rid of that frame hanger before it rips itself off... Please.

 

[meigsrock]

I really like this build... but please... please... please... get rid of that frame hanger before it rips itself off... Please.

What frame hanger? do you mean the 2x2 bar up front that the front end of the springs are mounted to? or the extra length sticking out the front? Or something else?

I welded the 2"x2" x 3/16" thick bar fully on the other day. Welded all the way around in for good. I am also going to add some gussets in a couple places to reinforce it to the frame for extra strength to help against any kind of leverage that may try to tear it off. It is thicker and heavier duity than the frame up front.

I cut the front holes in the frame for the hanger on the back end of the front spring. I used a hole saw because I already had one but a plasma cutter would have been faster and probably more accurate.

I also picked up some shackel parts, steering parts, and my rear driveline that I had shortened.

I will post some more details and pictures of this progress.

 

[bkg]

What frame hanger? do you mean the 2x2 bar up front that the front end of the springs are mounted to? or the extra length sticking out the front? Or something else?

I welded the 2"x2" x 3/16" thick bar fully on the other day. Welded all the way around in for good. I am also going to add some gussets in a couple places to reinforce it to the frame for extra strength to help against any kind of leverage that may try to tear it off. It is thicker and heavier duity than the frame up front.

I cut the front holes in the frame for the hanger on the back end of the front spring. I used a hole saw because I already had one but a plasma cutter would have been faster and probably more accurate.

I also picked up some shackel parts, steering parts, and my rear driveline that I had shortened.

I will post some more details and pictures of this progress.

Yup... the front spring hanger. IMHO, replace it with something with less leverage on the frame.

 

[mattafact]

Any updates?

 

[lanechurch920]

O that is exactly what I wanted to do to my truck with the camper

 

[meigsrock]

Update

Here is where I am at:
Work got really bussy Mid July through September so no progress there.

I had the drive line shotened but never had a chance to put it on.

I had to get ready for winter in a hurry and get things around here covered and put away for winter. Mid October had most put away and then took a vacation to Mexico. Came back to 1.5' snow in the yard and on the truck. I am looking at 10 deg. F temps this week.

I was hoping to finish this fall but ran out of time this summer so here is where it sits.

It is in the drive-way (wont fit in the garage now) with the used IFS rear under it sitting spring over on 6" shackesl. This is a bit too high but I will worry about geting it level once the front is done.

The used 5 speed tranny is in with cross member fabed up and new kevlar clutch hooked up but no drive line installed. (god I hope it works and is in good shape)

The front axle never got put all the way in. I cut the holes in the frame for the shackels for the rear of the front springs but never put them in so the front is all up on jack stands.

I will pull the whole front axle out this winter after december when work calms down and rebuild it. I will post progress at that point but that may be all that gets done as the truck is outside and it is winter up here untill April.

Here is my to do list still:
install IFS box and steering linkage (done)
install and fab cross over steering bar (done)
install stearing stabalizer
install power steering pullies and belts (done)
weld in front shackel hangers and install front shackels (done)
install rear driveline (done)
check and fill as needed all diffs, trany, t-case
install shift boot cover on floor
figure out how to connect the spedo cable up to the digital tranny
Put shorter shackles on the rear (possibly re-do rear springs or put on airbags)
buy and install shocks on all corners (front is done)
weld shock mounts on all corners (front is done)
buy and install extended break lines (done)
buy and install all-pro transfercase mounted parking break or put in a line lock for breaks
test drive to make sure all works ok and gears match tires ok
May need to upgrade the break booster. (i did upgrade the master cylinder but not the booster)....(done, upgraded to 2000 tacoma pu MC and booster)
alignment
build bump stops
attach anti sway bars (front done)

That is just the list to get it driveable again.

Other things I want to do do it are:
install a factory gas tank guard
build and install a heavy duity front bumper
remove the LPG gas tank and put a new one in with some new plumbing and valvs.
Reienforce the rear of the frame
install a HD tow hitch Class III
install new cross bars to replace rusted ones holding up the rear of the fiberglass body
Install new hood, fenders, grill, blinkers, (bought this spring but never put on yet
work on body rust spots
build HD rear bumper, ladder, tire and gas can holders on rear

As you can see this is quite a long term project. Expecially at the speed I work. Typing out the list is a bit discouraging but oh well.

Next progress will be to rebuild the front end and install a locker or limited slip in the front axle. I have 2 auzi lockers, a gov. lock and a eaton limited slip for landcruiser axles that I could put in the front but not sure which one to put in yet.
Any thoughts here are welcome. I think I am leaning tward the gov. lock or auzi locker.