2UZ-FE suspect blown head gasket (UPDATE - 3x pistons stuffed) (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

For a past 2 years I read numerous forums posts .. and other websites.. about 2UZ FE
And I must say 2 UZ FE one of the reliable engine not just in Toyota company but in whole car industry ... it's a masterpiece...
But I never owned car with 2 UZ FE I wish ...
I am driving now 01 Mercedes E430 ..
Maybe some day will buy ..
Yeah feel sorry for you that this happened..
But I guess it's Rare for 2UZ FE ... i was surprised when i first read this post "Blown Head Gasket in 2UZ FE " Wow..
Maybe should make a post "What kills 2UZ FE"
 
Last edited:
Well, just an update... and not a good one, unfortunately. :(
My mechanic took the head off.
3x pistons are stuffed on the drivers side.
IMG_1385.PNG
IMG_1384.JPG
IMG_1384.JPG

Photos supplied.
I'm guessing its not going to be worth fixing it?
Suspect it may be cheaper to buy another second hand long motor... but not entirely sure which way to go...
Its a shame given its got less than 260,000KMs on it.

Sigh....
 
WOW

Can't zoom in on cylinder #8. But looks like it's walls are scored.

Coolant leak into cylinders, contaminants dropped into intake ports during starter job, a vacuum leak or clogged fuel injectors. Note: Cylinder head temp goes up when a lean fuel mixture.

Your issues seems to have begun after starter job.
 
WOW

Can't zoom in on cylinder #8. But looks like it's walls are scored.

Coolant leak into cylinders, contaminants dropped into intake ports during starter job, a vacuum leak or clogged fuel injectors. Note: Cylinder head temp goes up when a lean fuel mixture.

Your issues seems to have begun after starter job.
Yes, it never had any issues, didn't use a drop of oil or coolant over a 4800KM round trip.
The starter died a few months later, then had ongoing issues with coolant loss after that.
I replaced radiator hoses, replaced the hose clips with stainless steel hose clamps, etc, but hadn't resolved it completely, obviously.

Looking at a replacement engine.
Is a 2001 Tundra 2UZ-Fe long motor compatible as a replacement for a 2003 UZJ100 2UZ-Fe?
The only difference I can see is that the Tundra uses an accelerator cable whereas the UZJ100 uses a fly by wire...
What issues would that cause?
I've created another topic on this, but thought I'd ask here as well.
Thanks for all the input.
 
You can. But more swapping of parts than just a cable.

I did the VVT engine so a little more involved and VVT heads & piston are different. But all non VVT 2UZ-fe (98-05 USA 100 series) are the same long block (block and heads)

Read some of the threads I started when replacing the Unicorn engine.

7 more links bottom of post OP in this thread:


Here you see all parts I swapped from 100 series engine to the GX470 I used.

In case you can't see sign line below with link. Here's the master link:

Good luck
 
Thanks, once again, for your advice and input 2001LC, I appreciate it.
I ended up finding a long motor from a Lexus LX470.
I'll have to swap over the throttle body, as the engine uses an accelerator cable, but other than that, there shouldn't be too much to do.
Thanks again, and sorry for the delay, I somehow didn't realise you'd posted.
 
And, just to put in a final update...
I ended up getting the replacement engine and got my mechanic to install it.
The pressure test on the radiator showed about a dozen leaks... so replaced that as well, and a few hoses. :)

The 2UZ-Fe engine I replaced the current one with was from a 2001 or 2002 Lexus.
Mine was a uzj100 2003.

Transferring the throttle body wasn't the only issue, in the end.
Some of the other sensors were different, from what my mechanic said
I think it was the knock sensor, from memory, but perhaps others as well.
Transferring the front O2 sensors was a pain as well apparently, and now have a new error code on the scan code reader... I don't think the O2 sensor 1 Bank 1 liked being cut out of its old rusty manifold.
I assume I should just replace both front sensors asap...

The replacement engine, coming from a vehicle with the same number of KMs, has way more power, almost a startling amount of extra power, idles far smoother, yet has a... I guess somewhat throatier, rawer, sound.....hard to explain.
I assume the original engine, which I didn't test when I purchased it s/hand, would have failed a compression test the day I bought it... but it survived 10K or more after I bought it.
When I'd first bought it, I'd notice that, for example, when I had it on cruise control, set at 100KPH, driving on country highways, and I'd hit a fairly low hill, quite often, the cruise control would drop back from top gear to 4th, then, I guessing sensing the engine is still not maintaining speed, it would drop back to a very low gear, and the RPMs would go up to 3-4ks to try to compensate for the late of power.
Could be wrong of course, I have been at least once before, but seeing the current engine not exhibiting that, I suspect it may be correct.
 
Likely your engine was overheating the entire 10K, due to low coolant.

The O2 don't like being touched on probe and it's best to change their old gasket (washer). Also make sure, it's wire harness block is firmly seated.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom