2LTE started misfiring, smoking, 1991 Surf (1 Viewer)

GTSSportCoupe

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Did a bit more investigating, there is no fuel tank access hatch sadly. Also while underneath, a couple of my fuel lines looked REALLY greasy, and something really peculiar caught my eye.

First there isn't much around there that could cause this sort of greasiness on the line other than fuel.

Second, If you look in the picture below, there is a hardline with a rubber sleeve around it. At the edge of the sleeve on the hardline, it looks clean all the way around. I took a microfibre to it afterwords, and the rubber sleeve didn't move too easily, so i'm thinking the only way that spot could be clean is if there was a hardline leak inside that rubber line causing fuel to leech out. Will investigate further. Maybe while i was wheeling a rock shot up and hit it.

View attachment 2446010

What area of the vehicle is that? I'd most certainly focus my attention on that spot. That is how diesel leaks look. If you're leaking diesel that bad, then it'll definitely be drawing in a lot of air into the fuel system. Could easily be causing all your problems.
 
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They have a high failure rate. Try and hire a quality one if possible or spend a bit more.
That leak maybe part of the problem but you said it still ran bad with the engine running from the fuel container. Leaks tend to let a heap of air in overnight and go away during the day if its driven. Low compression tends to do the same

Hopefully it lasts 4 cylinders, if not, i bought it from amazon and can return it easily. Reviews weren't completely s*** so i think it should do. Kit comes tomorrow so i sohuld have compression results early next week if i have time.

What area of the vehicle is that? I'd most certainly focus my attention on that spot. That is how diesel leaks look. If you're leaking diesel that bad, then it'll definitely be drawing in a lot of air into the fuel system. Could easily be causing all your problems.

Center of the vehicle behind the transmission. Kind of where the fuel lines double back on each other. That grease is only around those lines in that 1 area and I'm unable to find it on anything else. I think I'm going to hook up my air compressor to the incoming line to the fuel filter and apply a tiny bit of pressure, see if anything sprays out. As i couldn't see anything come out while idling/revving a bit.

Yesterday just for the sake of it i replaced the fuel filter, and filled half of it up with ATF and idled it for a bit. Started it this morning while everything was cold and it kind of seemed like it helped out my problem, still a couple misfires but it isn't bad compared to the previous mornings, but it was a bit warmer today as well.

Something else to note, when my engine is colder i hear a weird metallic noise coming from the engine, still trying to narrow that down. If i was to describe it, it sounds like a little metal bolt inside a metal container being vigorously shaken. Stops after its warmed up.
 
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Hopefully it lasts 4 cylinders, if not, i bought it from amazon and can return it easily. Reviews weren't completely s*** so i think it should do. Kit comes tomorrow so i sohuld have compression results early next week if i have time.



Center of the vehicle behind the transmission. Kind of where the fuel lines double back on each other. That grease is only around those lines in that 1 area and I'm unable to find it on anything else. I think I'm going to hook up my air compressor to the incoming line to the fuel filter and apply a tiny bit of pressure, see if anything sprays out. As i couldn't see anything come out while idling/revving a bit.

Yesterday just for the sake of it i replaced the fuel filter, and filled half of it up with ATF and idled it for a bit. Started it this morning while everything was cold and it kind of seemed like it helped out my problem, still a couple misfires but it isn't bad compared to the previous mornings, but it was a bit warmer today as well.

Something else to note, when my engine is colder i hear a weird metallic noise coming from the engine, still trying to narrow that down. If i was to describe it, it sounds like a little metal bolt inside a metal container being vigorously shaken. Stops after its warmed up.

I went through 3 of those testers until I got a good one. It’s easy enough to return so Im still satisfied :hillbilly:. I still think your comp would have to be pretty low to cause these issues when warm. My ratty old 3B has low 300s on all cylinders and will miss a bit on start up but still runs great once warmed up.

Can you just try to put a clamp on that rubber line and see if that helps?
 

GTSSportCoupe

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Hopefully it lasts 4 cylinders, if not, i bought it from amazon and can return it easily. Reviews weren't completely s*** so i think it should do. Kit comes tomorrow so i sohuld have compression results early next week if i have time.



Center of the vehicle behind the transmission. Kind of where the fuel lines double back on each other. That grease is only around those lines in that 1 area and I'm unable to find it on anything else. I think I'm going to hook up my air compressor to the incoming line to the fuel filter and apply a tiny bit of pressure, see if anything sprays out. As i couldn't see anything come out while idling/revving a bit.

Yesterday just for the sake of it i replaced the fuel filter, and filled half of it up with ATF and idled it for a bit. Started it this morning while everything was cold and it kind of seemed like it helped out my problem, still a couple misfires but it isn't bad compared to the previous mornings, but it was a bit warmer today as well.

Something else to note, when my engine is colder i hear a weird metallic noise coming from the engine, still trying to narrow that down. If i was to describe it, it sounds like a little metal bolt inside a metal container being vigorously shaken. Stops after its warmed up.


Buy a couple cans of brake clean and use a brass brush to clean up the whole wet area really well. Give it a liberal rinse with more brake clean and then blow off with air to dry. Monitor the area carefully over the next few days to see where exactly it gets 'wet' first.
 
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Cleaned up that entire area i thought was fuel and i don't think that's it. I also spliced in a clear line between the fuel filter housing and the fuel pump, didn't see any air bubbles. However this issue only seems to come around when both the motor and engine are cold, so I'll keep an eye on it when its cold.

GTS if it turns out it's low compression, do you have a line on a good gasket kit locally? If it turns out i have to rebuild the engine, it would be a good time for me to learn the inner workings of an engine. And is there anything else you would recommend doing while I'm that far into the engine? Tbelt/head gasket/head/glows were all just done 40000km, unsure what else should be looked at.

Was also told by a local shop that i should be adjusting the valves, however the guy who rebuild my engine put a 2.8l camshaft and shims in so (If my understanding of the system is correct) if the shims are worn down i just put new ones in. However that doesn't make sense that they're out if its only 40000km old.
 
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do you have a line on a good gasket kit locally? If it turns out i have to rebuild the engine, it would be a good time for me to learn the inner workings of an engine.

You are better off with a whole engine kit that comes with everything. Engines Australia are popular for their price and delivery cost.
I think they may have a dealer in the US now.
 
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Just did a compression test, getting about 360psi all around. This was after idling the engine for about a minute. My method was plugging in the tester, cranking it over about 20 times, check the number, do it again on the same cylinder and confirm both numbers are about the same.

Gts back in 2015 when you did your head gasket you posted you got between 400-440, so my numbers don't look tooooo bad, especially not bad enough to cause the smoke.

While taking the air hoses out, all of the rubber hoses are completely soaked through with oil, and there is a puddle in one of them. Thoughts?

Edit: was told a sign if bad injectors is if the glows look wet or greasy, however they look ok to me.

Edit2: there is a bit oil in both of the air race ways, between turbo and throttle body, and between the air filter and turbo. Im assuming that the oil between the filter and turbo is from the vent, and that the oil between the turbo and throttle body is from the turbo seal.


20200928_135919.jpg


received_353043092512471.jpeg
 
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Couple more pics of the connections between the turnout and throttle body, enough oil to give me an oil change up here.


Throttle Body Connector Hose
20200928_151125.jpg


Turbo
20200928_151158.jpg
 
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You should have done the compression test cold, idling it for a minute tends to warm it up and expand the components, But 360 all round still sounds good.
It could be that oil that is causing poor combustion when cold.
 
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You should have done the compression test cold, idling it for a minute tends to warm it up and expand the components, But 360 all round still sounds good.
It could be that oil that is causing poor combustion when cold.


Ok, the video i was watching (on the 2lte) mentioned that it should be done after idling it for a minute, something about oiling up the seals. I haven't put anything back together yet so ill wait until tonight and test it again.

So i presume that the oil is coming out of the turbo and that it needs to be rebuilt? If all of that oil was coming from the PCV, it would make sense that the raceway between the filter>turbo would be dirty, if not dirtier than the one between the throttlebody/turbo.
 

GTSSportCoupe

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Some compression testers will read low if they don't have a check valve right at the thread-in adapter. This because it essentially increases cylinder volume and reduces compression ratio. Does your have a check valve at the bottom or top? This could easily contribute to lower readings.

As all your cylinders are the same number, I really don't think there is anything wrong there in any case though.

The Toyota FSM manual says to do the compression test on a warm engine, so you've done nothing wrong there either IMHO.

Please tell me you disconnected the injection pump spill control valve before doing your test though? This will keep diesel from being injected.

I think I already wrote about the oil in your engine's intake tract. Its from your crank case vent that connects just before the turbo. This is super typical for these motors, and is the reason people buy catch cans or vent the crank vent else where. No need to be concerned about it. One thing that helps a huge amount to reduce the amount of oil is to take your valve cover off, and remove a little cover inside which give access to a filter. Soak that filter in gas or brake clean until it turns white and is clean. Then replace with silicone sealant as it was. It'll reduce the oil that gets blown out by a lot. There are pics somewhere of this job....

If you're concerned about blow-by (which can contribute to too much oil), do the 'tea kettle lid' test. With the motor warm and running, remove the oil filler cap and set it loose back in the hole. If it rattles just a bit your motor is fine. If it blows right off and you see a choo choo train of smoke, then you have above average blow by.

Did you take videos of your compression testing?

Here is a video I took when I did a test last year. All 4 were exactly the same as this one. Don't mind my kid's (assistant) strange comments, LOL. This is a new short block so higher compression than the post you found that you mentioned above.

New video by Nicolas Braam

I really still think your issues are fuel system related. Until you've eliminated all possibilities there, I wouldn't start down the engine rebuild path.
 
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Yea i disconnected the pump lol.

" valve cover off, and remove a little cover inside which give access to a filter. " I will look into this, like i said i'm a rookie when it comes to engines, so i gotta figure out what the valve cover is first LOL. But i'll do this.

" If you're concerned about blow-by...' Already done this step, oil cap didn't blow off. Rattled a tiny bit though.

Did not take a video, but i will do a cold engine compression test tonight and take a video.

Have a catch can in my shopping cart as we speak.

Appreciate the help.
 

GTSSportCoupe

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Yea i disconnected the pump lol.

" valve cover off, and remove a little cover inside which give access to a filter. " I will look into this, like i said i'm a rookie when it comes to engines, so i gotta figure out what the valve cover is first LOL. But i'll do this.

" If you're concerned about blow-by...' Already done this step, oil cap didn't blow off. Rattled a tiny bit though.

Did not take a video, but i will do a cold engine compression test tonight and take a video.

Have a catch can in my shopping cart as we speak.

Appreciate the help.

Valve cover is the metal part that covers the top of the engine (covers valve train components). Here are pictures of cleaning the filter (not mine): My LJ 78 Prado

Again, don't get all worked up about rebuilding your motor. I'm speaking from a lot of 2LTE experience in saying that your problems are almost guaranteed to be fuel system related.

The knocking you were referring to earlier in the thread is called diesel knock. It can be more pronounced if the diesel timing is messed up. This can happen if the injection system is not working right and diesel is injected early. It can also happen if there is a bunch of air in the fuel system....
 
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Once again GTS/Rosco, i extremely appreciate your help. If it wasn't for people like you i would be spending hundreds at shops trying to figure out the problems. GTS I'm coming up to the island in a month or two, I'm unable to PM you to get your contact info but if you wanna send me your number so we can link up, ill drop off your favorite case of beer when I'm up. And Rosco if you ever visit the west coast LMK.

Ill update on the status of the "cold" compression test tonight when its completely cooled down and post a video. But for now ill assume that its all working as intended.

Catch can is ordered, and i currently have a partsoq cart ongoing with some new hoses as mine are kinda s***tered.

Now for the fuel system. I've scoured the engine bay and can't find a trace of fuel coming from the pump. Is there a way to pressurize the lines to find a leak? Like hooking up an air compressor to the fuel system? Also, in my early stages of diagnosing the problem, it sounds like people with buggered TPS sensors were experiencing the same issues. I would just like to cross a few things off the list before i go to an injector rebuild, as i got a quote for 125$/Injector, and new ones are around the same price.
 
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Here is the compression test. I tried putting everything back together yesterday but for whatever reason it was cranking but not starting, thought it was the glow system (As in me not putting it back together correctly) and blew the fuse, so i got a bit of troubleshooting to do, pretty sure i got it figured out though.
 
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GTSSportCoupe

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Here is the compression test. I tried putting everything back together yesterday but for whatever reason it was cranking but not starting, thought it was the glow system (As in me not putting it back together correctly) and blew the fuse, so i got a bit of troubleshooting to do, pretty sure i got it figured out though.

One thing I've done wrong before when I first bought my LJ78 was put the spacers for the glow rail back together wrong. This shorted the glow system to the intake manifold. I blew one of the big fusible links at the battery. :-( Double check this has not happened for you.

Have you plugged your spill valve back in?

Could also be air in the system; try pumping the fuel primer button. How long does it take to firm up?

Thanks for the comp test video. I see a relief valve at the gauge, but is there another internal valve at the end of the gauge hose? Or in the glow plug adapter? This is important to determining if the gauge is reading low because of the hose air volume.
 
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Confirmed the fuel pump is plugged in. And yea for the glow, I first didn't electrically connect the plate and the rail together, and after fudging around with it i accidentally shorted it out to the stud. Gonna hit Lordco later today but im expecting them to charge me like $20 for the fuse lol. The junkyard near me is closed but next time its open i gotta do a few walkarounds and leave with some fuses in my pocket haha. I'll find the fusable link too and check that out.

Took a look at the hose and i can't really tell if there is another internal valve. Here is the kit i picked up

Amazon product
 

GTSSportCoupe

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Once again GTS/Rosco, i extremely appreciate your help. If it wasn't for people like you i would be spending hundreds at shops trying to figure out the problems. GTS I'm coming up to the island in a month or two, I'm unable to PM you to get your contact info but if you wanna send me your number so we can link up, ill drop off your favorite case of beer when I'm up. And Rosco if you ever visit the west coast LMK.

Ill update on the status of the "cold" compression test tonight when its completely cooled down and post a video. But for now ill assume that its all working as intended.

Catch can is ordered, and i currently have a partsoq cart ongoing with some new hoses as mine are kinda s***tered.

Now for the fuel system. I've scoured the engine bay and can't find a trace of fuel coming from the pump. Is there a way to pressurize the lines to find a leak? Like hooking up an air compressor to the fuel system? Also, in my early stages of diagnosing the problem, it sounds like people with buggered TPS sensors were experiencing the same issues. I would just like to cross a few things off the list before i go to an injector rebuild, as i got a quote for 125$/Injector, and new ones are around the same price.

Sure, would be good meet you if you come to VI sometime. And I do like beer. :) I'll shoot you a PM. I'd turned the PM's off because too many people were messaging me regarding their 2LTE. I prefer to keep the tech talk to the forum where it can be useful to others also.

Are you mixing the TPS (throttle position sensor) sensor up with the TCV (timing control valve) in the bottom of the injection pump? In all my reading I've not heard of 2LTE's having TPS issues, but I suppose it may be possible.... It's an easy enough part to swap out. However I'd recommend finding a complete throttle body with the TPS on it, as then you won't have to calibrate position a new one.

The TCV (timing control valve) in the bottom of the injection pump is known to have issues for some people. Usually from debris settling in the bottom of the pump and plugging up the hydraulic passages that are needed for the TCV to work. I sort of doubt this is your issue, mainly because you don't have any ECU error codes. Same goes for the TPS for that matter.

Regarding leaks in your fuel system, they usually happen as the fuel hoses and clamps age. They can also happen at the fuel primer, as the internal diaphram cracks and lets air in. You could start by replacing the factory clamps with new screw clamps. And replace the fuel primer also (aftermarket ones are cheap on ebay). Leaks can also happen if the fuel filter is not on right, or the water drain in the bottom is leaking.
 

GTSSportCoupe

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Took a look at the hose and i can't really tell if there is another internal valve. Here is the kit i picked up

Just look in the end of the rubber hose with a flash light. Can you see way into it, or is their a little valve (like a tire valve) in there? Same for the adapter, shine a flash light through it, if you see light coming out the other end, there is no valve.
 
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Just look in the end of the rubber hose with a flash light. Can you see way into it, or is their a little valve (like a tire valve) in there? Same for the adapter, shine a flash light through it, if you see light coming out the other end, there is no valve.

Yea there is a little tire valve looking thing. And the adapter is see through.

Are you mixing the TPS (throttle position sensor) sensor up with the TCV (timing control valve) in the bottom of the injection pump? In all my reading I've not heard of 2LTE's having TPS issues, but I suppose it may be possible.... It's an easy enough part to swap out. However I'd recommend finding a complete throttle body with the TPS on it, as then you won't have to calibrate position a new one.

Nah im talking about the TPS, on some other ancient posts people have mentioned that replacing them has helped. But if a bad tps would trigger engine codes then i doubt that's the case.

Regarding leaks in your fuel system, they usually happen as the fuel hoses and clamps age. They can also happen at the fuel primer, as the internal diaphram cracks and lets air in. You could start by replacing the factory clamps with new screw clamps. And replace the fuel primer also (aftermarket ones are cheap on ebay). Leaks can also happen if the fuel filter is not on right, or the water drain in the bottom is leaking.

A few days back i temporarily spliced in a clear silicon line between the fuel filter and the pump, and no air was coming in. So i believe the issue lies between the outgoing fuel port on the filter, and the injectors.

Just for the sake of it, I'll replace every rubber fuel line after the filter with new clamps and hoses. Doesn't look like they're are too many. Pretty busy in the upcoming days so might take a while for progress.

EDIT: Fixed the glow issue, the rail was slightly touching the block so i kind of bent it back into position and taped it up as the insulation was starting to rot. There goes an 80A fuse lol
 
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