2L TE ticking (1 Viewer)

[Cascadia]

I think you could replace the crank without removing the cylinder head. The head gasket on these motors is the MLS (multilayer steel) type, and is not an item that needs to be replaced; they basically never fail. The only unknown, is whether your cylinder head has ever been upgraded to the newer part number. The originals ALL fail, and the newer part number seems to be much improved, as they last at lest 2-3 times as many kms. With the kms you have, chances are high yours has already been replaced. It's a tough call. I think I'd be tempted to remove it and check on everything if it was me. It's not that much more work. However a new headgasket and new set of headbolts will set you back a bit more....

It's not that hard to remove these motors. The main problem you'll find is the wiring harness gets brittle with age. You have to be very careful with it when you remove it from the engine.

Take lots of pictures so you know how to put things back. Also, a trick I always use is I store the bolts back in the holes they belong in. Easy way to keep track of them.

I have an engine stand you can borrow if you want.

I’ll see how I feel about the head when the time comes. I’m Assuming that there’s a part number embossed or stamped on the head, right? If so, where can I find it?

The prep work and pictures aren’t too daunting. I actually use the same ‘bolt in the hole’ trick you mention. The challenge is in finding a hoist to get it out of the truck. I would love to have this happen here at home. Problem is I have no garage, hence no ceiling for an overhead hoist.

I was going to buy a stand, but I may take you up on that offer.

 

[Dprio34]

@Cascadia , not sure if they have Harbor Freight up there, but HF sells an adequate cherry picker/hoist for like $150 USD branded as "Pittsburgh". I found one on Craig's List for $75. It's plenty strong to pull out the 2L-T and clears the front core/grill no problem.

 

[Cascadia]

@Cascadia , not sure if they have Harbor Freight up there, but HF sells an adequate cherry picker/hoist for like $150 USD branded as "Pittsburgh". I found one on Craig's List for $75. It's plenty strong to pull out the 2L-T and clears the front core/grill no problem.

Unfortunately we do not. I just saw the model you refer to, looks ideal. However it’s in store pick up only so I’m out of luck there.

 

[Dprio34]

Sorry to hear that. Hopefully, there is another solution locally. Not sure if there is a ground freight option from USA to Canada, but if there is, let me know. If I can help, I'd be glad to do it.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Engine hoists often show up on Used Victoria and Craigslist. There's always Princess Auto and KMS Tools too.

 

[duke skelly]

No smoke is seen during the episode. Sound is coming from Cylinder 2. Fingers/toes crossed for the observations once the oil pan is removed!! Atleast the shorty is in good hands!!

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Thoughts? Happened <10 miles after a timing belt change.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

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Thoughts? Happened <10 miles after a timing belt change.

Something wasn't done right IMHO. Sorry to see that.

 

[robmobile73]

View attachment 3437143

View attachment 3437153

Thoughts? Happened <10 miles after a timing belt change.

I've had this happen before with a mitsubishi 4d56 and my 3B swallowed a valve seat during a overheat creating a similar mess.....

Make sure to inspect your camshaft thouroughly. Sometimes they crack when this happens which can lead to it happening again when the cam comes apart after you replaced the valves in the affected cylinder.

If you try to remove the valve material from that piston and re-use it pay special attention to any divet near the edge as it may have pinched the top ring............

...If you do all your own work and money matters since you already have the head off it it's not that much more work to drop the oil pan unbolt the rods/remove pistons, ball hone the bores with a hand drill, and put in a new set of pistons and rings "in frame" without removing the engine. I see a piston ring set on ebay for $165 right now. You may have some scoring in that cylinder, but you might be able to smooth it out with a ball hone. I did this with a coarse ball hone and then fine on my 3B. Still doing fine 10K miles later

 

[duke skelly]

I've had this happen before with a mitsubishi 4d56 and my 3B swallowed a valve seat during a overheat creating a similar mess.....

Make sure to inspect your camshaft thouroughly. Sometimes they crack when this happens which can lead to it happening again when the cam comes apart after you replaced the valves in the affected cylinder.

If you try to remove the valve material from that piston and re-use it pay special attention to any divet near the edge as it may have pinched the top ring............

...If you do all your own work and money matters since you already have the head off it it's not that much more work to drop the oil pan unbolt the rods/remove pistons, ball hone the bores with a hand drill, and put in a new set of pistons and rings "in frame" without removing the engine. I see a piston ring set on ebay for $165 right now. You may have some scoring in that cylinder, but you might be able to smooth it out with a ball hone. I did this with a coarse ball hone and then fine on my 3B. Still doing fine 10K miles later

Thank you for taking the time to share this excellent information!

Since the motor was seized, we weren't able to position to TDC. How can I ensure everything is timed correct during reassembly?

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Thank you for taking the time to share this excellent information!

Since the motor was seized, we weren't able to position to TDC. How can I ensure everything is timed correct during reassembly?

Just follow the Toyota service manual for the engine. I think it's hosted here in a couple volumes, but if you can't find it, I'll dig up a link for you. If you follow the FSM to a 't' things should work well.

I'd be concerned about possible bent rods or damaged BEB also. Honestly if it where me, I'd look for a different 2LTE and just keep your old one for parts.... Or maybe take the opportunity for a engine upgrade?

 

[duke skelly]

Just follow the Toyota service manual for the engine. I think it's hosted here in a couple volumes, but if you can't find it, I'll dig up a link for you. If you follow the FSM to a 't' things should work well.

I'd be concerned about possible bent rods or damaged BEB also. Honestly if it where me, I'd look for a different 2LTE and just keep your old one for parts.... Or maybe take the opportunity for a engine upgrade?

Thanks GTSSportCoupe! The engine upgrade option is enticing!!

 

[robmobile73]

Just follow the Toyota service manual for the engine. I think it's hosted here in a couple volumes, but if you can't find it, I'll dig up a link for you. If you follow the FSM to a 't' things should work well.

I'd be concerned about possible bent rods or damaged BEB also. Honestly if it where me, I'd look for a different 2LTE and just keep your old one for parts.... Or maybe take the opportunity for a engine upgrade?

Yep bent rods is a problem. Most people do complete rebuilds and pay professionals to do it all. My suggestions to you on repairing a piston and in frame rebuild are on old school way to spend a little money on some parts and some of your time to keep your LC running and going into the future without spending thousands to fully rebuild a 2LT. It's "an answer" that "may work for you", but it is not the right answer by modern standards, especially if you ask those who rebuild engines for a living, or those who willingly spend lots of money to rebuild engines.......You can probably enjoy your 2lt powered LC for a few more years for a little money and some of your time......2LT Is probably not an engine I'd spend thousands to rebuild and drive for 200K+ miles and that is based on what others say about that engine.

For my in frame rebuild I bought a coarse and normal ball hone. 2 cylinders had scoring. I was able to smooth it out. Clearances and out of round ended up within .002" of spec. I utilized a wider ring gap than factory, but within range to compensate for excess heat with the turbo............After honing I washed extensively with simple green and water hose to my shop sink with hot water and rags and wiping, followed by lots of wd40 and wiping with rags. 1st run was at idle for 5-10 minutes and that oil was drained. Second oil was for 2 tanks of fuel and then changed. To fit pistons to pins I didn't get complex about it. Some people worry about heating the pistons in boiling water to just the right temp, or in the oven until the pins slide in. Me I put each piston in a vice and warmed it up with a propane torch moving the flame around not to overheat any part until it was warm enough for the piston pin to slide into place. Water baths, BBQ grills, oven,...lots of methods for this, but it really isn't all that complex.

 

[duke skelly]

Thanks Robmobile73!

Waiting to hear back regarding the head's condition. If the head is good, will proceed with the rebuild. If not, will look into a KZ