hello, I turboed my 2H and it ran fine. I have needed a new radiator for awhile. I forgot to check it for awhile and ran it out of water. Now my egts instantly raised after I let it cool down and filled it back up with water. My oil is still black and no bubbles in my radiator. Does anyone have any ideas what it could be.
2H Turbo High egts?
- Thread starter zac320
- Start date
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Hi, how about a little more info. Did you successfully purge all the air out of the coolant passages within the engine block? What temperature is your engine coolant getting up to when warm? What were your EGT's before and after the cooling system went dry and how long did you run the engine before you knew you had a problem?
100F isn't that big an increase, and could be due to higher ambient temps, or any number of factors. That's within the margin of error IMO.
Agreed, I wouldn't sweat that change much. If it's still running well, I'd just keep a very close eye on the coolant level
He's not speaking in F. He's talking C.
I suspect your head gasket between two cylinders is blown.
Take your intake pipe off and put your hand close to the throttle plate and feel for a reverse pulse or get a compression check.
I suspect your head gasket between two cylinders is blown.
Take your intake pipe off and put your hand close to the throttle plate and feel for a reverse pulse or get a compression check.
Yep a good diesel compression testing kit is a wise investment. Your compression should be between 284-398PSI and the difference between each cylinder should not exceed 2.8PSI according to the 2H engine manual.
- Thread starter
- #8
Yeah I'll borrow a tester and hopefully it's just a head gasket. Seeing so no milky oil and no bubbles in radiator it seems the likely culprit.
Also the increase was straight after it boiled so it's definitely done something.
Cauld I possibly chuck a new set of rings in or just leave it as is?
Also the increase was straight after it boiled so it's definitely done something.
Cauld I possibly chuck a new set of rings in or just leave it as is?
I think it might be a good excuse to put an MLS gasket in there, if you can source one, and give it a valve job and new precups. A wise thing to change regardless of head gasket issues. Personally I'd leave the bottom alone unless you plan on doing reinforced Pistons.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
you can pull the pistons while you are there.. slippery slope when you open an engine for sure ..
- Thread starter
- #12
I was only going to do the rings as there is a bit of blowby and there cheap to do and I just bought a hone. I'll do the pre combs if that's recommended as well but that's about it, unless the big ends look worn, otherwise like it's been said its a slippery slope and I'm pretty confident doing all the above myself. The engine has 300k. Hopefully I can get away with it all for not too much otherwise I'd be going 12HT route.
The pre combustion cups and piston ring lands are the weak links for a 2h. If you change your cups and re-ring it with new rings and reinforced Pistons it will be a much improved engine. You could make some pretty decient, reliable power out of that thing.
A long time ago did a cylinder hone on 3b that dropped a valve seat and very carefully wrapped up the crank and bottom bearings to keep them clean. It is possible, but you have to be meticulous. My machinist friend swore I had destroyed it. Hard to achieve a 60 degree crosshatch. You have to really cordinate your revolutions and plunges to achieve it. I was a poor student and actually threw in old Pistons and rings and it sealed up and never burned oil. Drove it for a couple years till a semi truck took care of it.
A long time ago did a cylinder hone on 3b that dropped a valve seat and very carefully wrapped up the crank and bottom bearings to keep them clean. It is possible, but you have to be meticulous. My machinist friend swore I had destroyed it. Hard to achieve a 60 degree crosshatch. You have to really cordinate your revolutions and plunges to achieve it. I was a poor student and actually threw in old Pistons and rings and it sealed up and never burned oil. Drove it for a couple years till a semi truck took care of it.
I'd source a set of reinforced Pistons as I suspect you might discover your ringlands are larger than they should be.
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I'm all for proper machining, but it was you who brought up the re-ringing and honing. You have to remove the Pistons to do all that. I only suggested you put the new rings on new Pistons. If the cylinders are within spec it's worth doing. If I had a 2h I'd be doing it. But then again I do stuff most people wouldn't.
Do what I recomended and Max your fuel pump out and you might not feel such a need for a 12ht. They suffer the same piston issues by the way. At the very least do the gasket and precups.
I'll do a +1 on Alfin reinforced pistons- look carefully at piston 5 and 6 when you tear it down - the ring lands are likely to be worn at 300k and might not make it another 100k.
