2H Seems to lack power at high rpm. ALso Question on Injection Pump and Throttle Return. (1 Viewer)

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Weird Random thought. Dragging brakes?
 
One rear brake was dragging but I was able to free it. This made no noticeable difference. I drove up an 8% grade yesterday pulling a small trailer. At WOT I can hold 22 mph. Calculated this takes 24 HP to climb that hill. Everything else between my engine and the road is a loss. It isn't reasonable to expect more than 50% loss in the vehicle is it? If 50% I'd be pushing 48HP at the rpm of around 2500 during the climb. On flat highway I can hit 55mph floored.
Does this seem acceptable for a 2H with 250,000 km?
I may have to test the compression and injectors?
Chris
 
No but I looked at my options really carefully.
The FZJ80 wheels with 285/75R16 fit but with that small a tire it appears to stick out quite a bit (even though offset is the same since the HMMWV's use 2" spacers) and I was too lazy to change all 4 in the heat.
Where I'm headed is 315/70R17 or 285/75R17 on FJ cruiser steel wheels. I know the wheels are a bit narrow but people do it.
That tire/wheel is within 1% of the OEM size with the gears I have.

I rechecked the alignment more carefully with plumb bobs, strings squares etc and the truck is as close and as square as one can expect without alignment equipment.
 
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1/8" toe in best I can carefully measure across the tread blocks. I used to setup Formula Ford race cars so I'm not entirely new to "at the track" alignments.
Front axle is within OEM FJ80 specs for camber as well (Birfs and balls are FJ80, knuckle is Hellfire Fabworks).
 
IMG_1094.JPG
 
55 mph is 88 km ph,
Mine did 85 mph / 136 km ph but now with the boxes on the roof it still does 120 km h easy, but with trailer I rather not overtake, just stay behind a truck that does 90km h,
uphill with trailer and loaded I can go back from 4 or 5 to 3th, then over-rev and go to 4 and back to 3 again, same with steep hill from 3 tot 2 back to 3
I don't like that cyclic style of driving so I rather drive in 2 uphill (sometimes just 1000 meters long with special lorry lane witch indicates it is pretty steep) not over-revving, hope it makes sense :hmm:
Also with snorkel it seems to improve top speed, in 5th I can drive 120 kmh with trailer and loaded about 2200 kilogtrames cruiser, 1000 boat+ trailer, plus 5 people plus gear 800= 4000 kilograms
anyway top speed on straight road 55 mph is just wrong but I would still try other wheels first.
 
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One rear brake was dragging but I was able to free it. This made no noticeable difference. I drove up an 8% grade yesterday pulling a small trailer. At WOT I can hold 22 mph. Calculated this takes 24 HP to climb that hill. Everything else between my engine and the road is a loss. It isn't reasonable to expect more than 50% loss in the vehicle is it? If 50% I'd be pushing 48HP at the rpm of around 2500 during the climb. On flat highway I can hit 55mph floored.
Does this seem acceptable for a 2H with 250,000 km?
I may have to test the compression and injectors?
Chris
Using the same drivetrain losses I worked out for my HDJ80 (set up rear wheel drive only and about 35%) I would expect a 2H with stock tyres and in good condition to make about 60 rear wheel horsepower. Max power for the 2H is delivered at 3500 rpm, so if you're only at 2500 and got heavy tyres and rims, 48 HP may not be unreasonable.
 
I can cruise at 70mph with my 2H, H55F, 3.73 and 235s in an FJ45 on flat highways, although it takes a while to get up to speed. I don't want to go any faster than that.
 
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Checked my compression and it isn't great. Tester has a check valve right at the tip of the glow plug adapter. Gauge compared to another one and mesaured the same.

1 = 330 psi
2 = 240 psi
3 = 285 psi
4 = 230 psi
5 = 250 psi
6 = 285 psi

Leakdown test on #1 was 80 psi in and 55 psi out. Noise/flow present past rings, nothing anywhere else. Then I ran out of time.
Used DIFFERENTIAL CYLINDER PRESSURE TESTER MODEL E2A | Aircraft Spruce
which has a 0.040" orifice.

EDIT: The test is with a home made compression tester. I used a schrader valve in the end of an old glow plug. Maybe this valve is taking a lot of pressure to open it. I'll borrow a friends tester and redo it.
 
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Hmm, that's a bit low, how does she start cold?

Mr Yota states compression should be 398 PSI with a min of 284 psi and maximum difference between cylinders 28 PSI
 
It starts almost immediately cold or hot, no smoke white, black or oil burning. I am pretty sure the valve core i used is causing a low reading. I'll get another one tomorrow to check it.

Anyone know how to tell if the max fuel setting is somehow restricted? This is an automatic so no edic or governor diaphragm or HAC. There is a 'Stop Lever' on FU-34 of 2H engine manual that has nothing connected to it. Anyone know?
 
It starts almost immediately cold or hot, no smoke white, black or oil burning. I am pretty sure the valve core i used is causing a low reading. I'll get another one tomorrow to check it.

Anyone know how to tell if the max fuel setting is somehow restricted? This is an automatic so no edic or governor diaphragm or HAC. There is a 'Stop Lever' on FU-34 of 2H engine manual that has nothing connected to it. Anyone know?


That stop lever is just a manual way to shut fuel off to stop the engine.
 

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