2h injection timing

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Nov 17, 2015
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i recently installed a rebuilt 2h in my 62 series. I did not do the rebuild but the guy was reputable. The engine is in the truck and has been running about 2 months with short drives here and there to work out any bugs. I have been chasing a ticking noise above 2000rpm after the engine is warm. long story short i have been through everything i can think of valve timing, lifters, push rods, rocker arms, injectors, lift pump operation etc etc. I finally found what i believe is the problem. I checked the injection timing per the fsm "stand pipe" test and i found that the injection timing seems to be set for the 12ht 11degrees middle notch on the crank pulley instead of the 2h right side notch 18 degrees. My question is does anyone know if i can get approx. 7 degrees out of the fine tune adjustment of leaning the injection pump in the slotted holes? it is currently in the middle of the slotted holes. Or do i need to go ahead and pull the timing cover off and start over re timing the gears.
Any information is greatly appreciated
 

doug720

 
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I don't know the 2h, but my Isuzu 4BD2 has an inline Diesel Kiki/Bosch IP, and most Japanese diesels of that era operated roughly the same and shared basic injection pumps types.

On the Isuzu, the adjustment slots will give a quite a range of timing adjustments. The Isuzu is gear timed with alignment marks, so one does not make normal timing adjustments with the gears, you move the pump.

I adjust timing by loosening the fuel lines - easier to move and lines are under tension afterwords, loosen the IP and adjust, then reverse. Then do spill test to determine timing.

How does it run otherwise? Advanced timing has a loud and harsh sound, while retarded sounds muffled and dull.
 
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it runs fine 2h could always use a little more power. lol no running issues that i can tell no surging, stalling, power loss etc. just ticks above 2k rpm and above after warm driving or sitting still. I put a different set of injectors in and the noise stayed but moved closer to 2400 rpm and above. other than that it seems to run fine
 
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My question is does anyone know if i can get approx. 7 degrees out of the fine tune adjustment of leaning the injection pump in the slotted holes? it is currently in the middle of the slotted holes. Or do i need to go ahead and pull the timing cover off and start over re timing the gears.
Any information is greatly appreciated
This adjustment is in the scope of the pump rotation. Timing cover won't need to come off. Good luck with the two bolts at the back, so difficult to get to, and dont forget the small bolt underneath as well. I'm not sure it'll solve your ticking problem, but the 2H does benefit from bang on timing so its good that you're going to do it anyhow.
 
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@duncanrm @doug720 thanks for the responses. Do you think that 7degrees of timing is enough of a difference to potentially be my ticking noise? I am going to set the timing correctly either way but i feel like this could have been my problem all along.
 
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Do you think that 7degrees of timing is enough of a difference to potentially be my ticking noise?
No. I dont think so. Buts its absolutely worth getting the timing right anyway.

Is it possibly an exhaust leak? These often present as a ticking noise, and are often more evident under load, especially when rotation forces kick in and the engine is clocked over to the right a little.

Have you tried using a length of hose to track the location of the sound down a bit.. basically a 1M length of garden hose, hold one end up to your ear and use the other end to probe around the engine to localise the sound.
 
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i have cranked the engine cold and "felt" around the exhaust manifold etc. with no luck. I have done the screw driver test to the injectors and the pump. the only thing that i found a little odd was the no1 injector line "hits" a little harder to the touch. but i really think that is due to the routing of the line and the distance between the last hold down and injector on that line.
 

roscoFJ73

 
 
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Have the injectors been rebuilt? With the added compression in a rebuilt engine, it maybe affecting the injector somehow.
That would be my next job once the timing is corrected, or at least get them tested.
 
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Yes the injectors are next. I have two sets both used but were “working” when removed. I’ve tried both sets but little to no change in the characteristics of the noise. Hopefully I can get the timing corrected tomorrow.
 
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Ok so I set the timing correctly today 18* BTDC and the truck has a bit more power but the noise didn’t go away!!! Back to the drawing board.
 

Tapage

Club 4X4 Panamá
SILVER Star
 
 
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turbo it ! ( maybe you will forget about the ticking noise and enjoy the power -- well power and 2H in the same line won't match )
 
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I have and didn’t have any luck. I picked up a mechanic stethoscope yesterday I’m going to give that a try. The problem is it only makes the sound at or above 2200 rpm so there are a lot of little sounds at that engine speed. This one is just way louder.
@Tapage i plan on adding a turbo in the future but I have to find this first and finish the truck first.
 

doug720

 
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Another listening device uses a solid bar of steel as long as possible. I like 3/8" bar or a 24" long 3/8" socket extension.

Touch the engine part you want to listen to, then place your ear against the other end of bar. Works great, in fact, I think it works better than a mechanic stethoscope.
 
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