- Thread starter
- #21
Should I be sourcing part 19070-61060 only or will other coil with igniter part #’s work as well? Thanks Hobbes and others for the pictures.
2F Which Coil (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter martymart
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1911
chupacabra
Correct.
GA Architect
SILVER Star
The FJ60 dizzy, igniter & coil I use in my rig with a Sniper EFI. The dizzy was renovated by @4Cruisers . Before I installed, I also replace the old coil with new, an OEM unit 90919-02113 (8/80 - 8/87).
Another data point. On my ‘75 I’m using the later ignition coil (90919-02113), 78-79 igniter, and ballast resistor with my big cap dizzy.
Mark W
Yep, I really don't really care that much I guess.
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #29
Thanks all. I do occasionally forget about Mark B’s website. It’s a great resource.
1911
chupacabra
Thanks for the corrrection!
Mark W
Yep, I really don't really care that much I guess.
There ain't no way to do this as long as we have now, not slip up on a model year or some other minutia once in a while.
Mark...
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Mark - I have a 1980 FJ40 General Spec - RHD and would like to change the coil or switch it out for electronic transmission as my points keep burning out. Would welcome any advice / recommendations.
Mark W
Yep, I really don't really care that much I guess.
In NA, a 1980 FJ40 would have had OEM electronic ignition. If you can source it, that is the best way to go. This is a slightly larger distributor and the side cover of 2F engines equipped with this unit have a concavity for clearance. It has been a few years since I tried to fit one without the dished side cover, so my memory is a little hazy, but IIRC, you can fit the larger distributor with the standard side cover.
The 1978 and 1979 NA rigs had a smaller body electronic distributor. But these are hard to find.
As to burning points... do you still have the resitor in the circuit? These sometimes fail and are removed and then sometimes never replaced. The purpose of the resistor is to lower the voltage across the points to about 7 volts rather than the 12 that would be there otherwise. Normally during startup the resistor is bypassed to create a more powerful spark to aid in cold starts. As soon as the ignition key is released from the start position, the resistor is back in the ciruit.
Constantly running 12v (and higher) through the points will burn them up pretty quickly. If points life is your primary concern, you might want to check this before starting your quest for a replacement ignition system. It is a lot simpler and cheaper fix.
Mark...
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Ill get the multi meter on the coil and points to check the voltage before ripping them out. Mine is sadly a Middle East spec with traditional points, very basic. I need something extremely reliable as Im planning on a rally trip to Mongolia from London c.12,000 miles and will have limited access to parts.In NA, a 1980 FJ40 would have had OEM electronic ignition. If you can source it, that is the best way to go. This is a slightly larger distributor and the side cover of 2F engines equipped with this unit have a concavity for clearance. It has been a few years since I tried to fit one without the dished side cover, so my memory is a little hazy, but IIRC, you can fit the larger distributor with the standard side cover.
The 1978 and 1979 NA rigs had a smaller body electronic distributor. But these are hard to find.
As to burning points... do you still have the resitor in the circuit? These sometimes fail and are removed and then sometimes never replaced. The purpose of the resistor is to lower the voltage across the points to about 7 volts rather than the 12 that would be there otherwise. Normally during startup the resistor is bypassed to create a more powerful spark to aid in cold starts. As soon as the ignition key is released from the start position, the resistor is back in the ciruit.
Constantly running 12v (and higher) through the points will burn them up pretty quickly. If points life is your primary concern, you might want to check this before starting your quest for a replacement ignition system. It is a lot simpler and cheaper fix.
Mark...
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Points are the most reliable. You can fix them with a gum wrapper.
Replacing them with an EI isn't going to solve the problem that keeps burning them. You need to sort that out first.
Replacing them with an EI isn't going to solve the problem that keeps burning them. You need to sort that out first.
Agreed,
The fault is the voltage - the resister is burnt out. Does anyone have the part code for the original ? That seems to be my problem now everything else is changed.
You can bypass the resistor to quickly test that theory.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
@TunkeyndtheMonkey
Here's the resistor for the (USA) 1976-03 to 1977-09 models:
I would think the 90919-04020 would work, if you can find one. I have one on my '77 that I can measure resistance on, if you want to try to find a generic replacement.
The fiche doesn't show a resistor for later (USA) models, probably because of the EI, but I can't remember, it's been a long while since I had a 40 later than '77:
Here's the resistor for the (USA) 1976-03 to 1977-09 models:
I would think the 90919-04020 would work, if you can find one. I have one on my '77 that I can measure resistance on, if you want to try to find a generic replacement.
The fiche doesn't show a resistor for later (USA) models, probably because of the EI, but I can't remember, it's been a long while since I had a 40 later than '77:
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Malleus
Far west of Siegen
This is the 75-01 to 77-09 (USA) distributor, for reference and comparison for your model:
I know the image is poor, but it's all I have.
I know the image is poor, but it's all I have.
