2F Valve Seal Question

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I initially posted this in my build thread in the Pig Pen, but will repost here for more input.

I have a 75 FJ55 with a 78 2F engine. I attempted to order PN 90913-0233 valve seals from Toyota Parts Deal and they canceled my order, saying they were discontinued and not available.

McGeorge Toyota has the 90913-02033 valve seals, and have shipped them out today. I look forward to discovering what I actually get.

One of the things I've learned from this part of the project is the moving goal posts that are Toyota Parts.

The valve seals that automatically come with the cheap Fel-Pro engine seal kit are the one piece rubber kind that belong on the 1F engine. Those won't work on a 2F, because the top of the valve guide isn't shaped correctly and the seal just rides up and down on the valve stem instead of staying stuck to the valve guide.

From my research, it appears the first version of the 2F valve seal is PN 90913-02030. These were replaced by PN 90913-02033 around 10/78. Sometime around 1984, the valve seal part became PN 90913-02048. I guess it's possible that other part number valve seals exist that would also work.

I have no clue as to the interchangeability of the three valve seal part numbers. I wish I had a good idea of how they differ, and why you'd want one over the other. Anyone out there a 2F valve seal genius?
 
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BTW, the $28.95 Mahle valve seals you see for sale online are hot garbage. They are constructed poorly, and tend to separate when you try to press them on.

1640809103883.png

Just looking at the OEM removed on the left, the Mahle looks like the same thing.
1640809125562.png

I know the pic ain't great, but the rubber on the OEM valve seal is much wider than the Mahle aftermarket
1640809140576.png

Note the separation.
 
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I used standard fluoroelastomer (Viton) valve stem seals on the last three 2F head jobs and have not noticed any problems with them. They look just like the two pictured above. There is no reason for the rubber part to separate from the metal housing unless you are installing them "dry" on the valve stem, which is not recommended. I agree that the ones that seem to have more "body" to the rubber would probably be better. If someone has a part number for that style, and it is "Viton", please post the part #.
Doug
 

ToyotaMatt

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I initially posted this in my build thread in the Pig Pen, but will repost here for more input.

I have a 75 FJ55 with a 78 2F engine. I attempted to order PN 90913-0233 valve seals from Toyota Parts Deal and they canceled my order, saying they were discontinued and not available.

McGeorge Toyota has the 90913-02033 valve seals, and have shipped them out today. I look forward to discovering what I actually get.

One of the things I've learned from this part of the project is the moving goal posts that are Toyota Parts.

The valve seals that automatically come with the cheap Fel-Pro engine seal kit are the one piece rubber kind that belong on the 1F engine. Those won't work on a 2F, because the top of the valve guide isn't shaped correctly and the seal just rides up and down on the valve stem instead of staying stuck to the valve guide.

From my research, it appears the first version of the 2F valve seal is PN 90913-02030. These were replaced by PN 90913-02033 around 10/78. Sometime around 1984, the valve seal part became PN 90913-02048. I guess it's possible that other part number valve seals exist that would also work.

I have no clue as to the interchangeability of the three valve seal part numbers. I wish I had a good idea of how they differ, and why you'd want one over the other. Anyone out there a 2F valve seal genius?


i am no genius ,.

BUT !

i will claim to be a Professional Resource and well a EXPERT to simply claim .............


when it comes to ANY part on your 4/75 FJ55LG-KA , " MADE IN JAPAN " both means quality , dependability , and nothing less then a consistent end product

for the end user , and the end game you beloved
FJ55LG-KA you have going on ,,,,,,




i will take it a step further and state for the record MADE in the USA or now a host of
NON - MADE in JAPAN Toyota OEM Parts Suffer in ALL of the Above standards in

some subtle and or critical way shape or form ?



I have ALWAYS sourced my ENGINE GASKET SETS from ONLY SOR.COM since age 15 1990 circa , Never a issue of any kind because 100% of the Parts

in there engine builders 04111 and 04112 head sets or total long block gasket overhaul sets are simply 100% all made in japan .....




i swear by Mr. paul and Mrs. KAY at SOR.com when it comes to there line of OEM parts suppler private label store brand japan sourced parts no matter what

job scope your up to



you get what you pay for in the Land Cruiser Parts world this much i know ............



thanks for letting me share



kindly matt
 
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I used standard fluoroelastomer (Viton) valve stem seals on the last three 2F head jobs and have not noticed any problems with them. They look just like the two pictured above. There is no reason for the rubber part to separate from the metal housing unless you are installing them "dry" on the valve stem, which is not recommended. I agree that the ones that seem to have more "body" to the rubber would probably be better. If someone has a part number for that style, and it is "Viton", please post the part #.
Doug
I put a bit of petroleum jelly on before installation, but will be more generous and use engine oil on subsequent attempts.
 
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i am no genius ,.

BUT !

i will claim to be a Professional Resource and well a EXPERT to simply claim .............


when it comes to ANY part on your 4/75 FJ55LG-KA , " MADE IN JAPAN " both means quality , dependability , and nothing less then a consistent end product

for the end user , and the end game you beloved
FJ55LG-KA you have going on ,,,,,,




i will take it a step further and state for the record MADE in the USA or now a host of
NON - MADE in JAPAN Toyota OEM Parts Suffer in ALL of the Above standards in

some subtle and or critical way shape or form ?



I have ALWAYS sourced my ENGINE GASKET SETS from ONLY SOR.COM since age 15 1990 circa , Never a issue of any kind because 100% of the Parts

in there engine builders 04111 and 04112 head sets or total long block gasket overhaul sets are simply 100% all made in japan .....




i swear by Mr. paul and Mrs. KAY at SOR.com when it comes to there line of OEM parts suppler private label store brand japan sourced parts no matter what

job scope your up to



you get what you pay for in the Land Cruiser Parts world this much i know ............



thanks for letting me share



kindly matt
I will look into them. I've ordered from them in the past.
 
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120mm, there is a "correct" way to install the seals using the little clear thin sleeves that fit on the end of the valve, then you lube the seal and press it on over the sleeve. I don't do it the "correct" way. I keep the valve in position (lubed) and push the seal using my thumb on the seal hole and press the seal onto the valve with just the pad of my thumb. Doing it that way, there is no stress on the connection of the rubber (Viton) where it attaches to the steel outer housing. After it goes over the ridges in the valve stem, push the steel housing down to the valve guide and drive it on with a few taps of a hammer using a deep socket that fits the seal housing. You can feel when the seal housing is fully seated. After almost 60 years of doing this stuff, you kind of figure out ways that work for YOU. Doesn't really matter how everyone else does it.
have fun.
Doug
 
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120mm, there is a "correct" way to install the seals using the little clear thin sleeves that fit on the end of the valve, then you lube the seal and press it on over the sleeve. I don't do it the "correct" way. I keep the valve in position (lubed) and push the seal using my thumb on the seal hole and press the seal onto the valve with just the pad of my thumb. Doing it that way, there is no stress on the connection of the rubber (Viton) where it attaches to the steel outer housing. After it goes over the ridges in the valve stem, push the steel housing down to the valve guide and drive it on with a few taps of a hammer using a deep socket that fits the seal housing. You can feel when the seal housing is fully seated. After almost 60 years of doing this stuff, you kind of figure out ways that work for YOU. Doesn't really matter how everyone else does it.
have fun.
Doug
This is excellent advice.

I noticed the issue with the rubber catching the end of the valve stem, as well as the retainer ridges. I will use your method later today when the new seals arrive.

Now if there were an "easy button" for getting the second valve keeper on....
 
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Well, got the stem seals from McGeorge Toyota today, and installed them. Went on super easy and without issue.

In addition to the Toyota OEM seals having thicker rubber, the metal part has better hardness. When you drive them home, they don't distort like the Mahle do

IMG_20211231_164756083.jpg


IMG_20211231_164805405.jpg




IMG_20211231_164957119.jpg
note the use of a wobble extension to install that last seal on #6

IMG_20211231_165411864.jpg
 

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