2f rebuild

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I've decided to rebuild my 2f, I'm going to use all oem other than the pistons and cam. I've got the pistons lined up already, forged flatops. I guess the question is RV cam? Where do I source a good one other than MAF? I went back 20 pages and read up old posts on the subject, and other than decking the head, any other little tricks to do while this thing is apart? Cruiser parts has "high compression" heads, would that be a better way to go? What's the diff between a HC head and a decked factory 78?
 
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Do a search on this site you will find the info you need.
I Finished mine this summer and heres what I did. I purchased all of my parts through Mudraks in Sonoma. That was a big help.
RV cam shaft, .030 over sized pistons, deck the block, shaved the head (both needed to be done), Stock Carb Rebuilt, Header from Downey.
Mudraks prices were competative with PAc Lift.
 
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Petes', I know you can't compare the two all that close due to running a rebuilt, but sometime back, here in the tech, someone said not to waste time on a rv grind, and I can't seem to find that post now. IYO you think that the new cam improved performance?
 
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It feels like it has better power. Of course rebuilding helped bring back power as well. I base the RV cam on what my research pulled up and by Mudraks reccomendation (he is a lot more experienced on rebuilding the 2f than I am). The LCML archive has similar recomendations.
 
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I said somthign efore about not fooling with it (RV Cam) I dont see the results as worth the money but it cannot hurt. Either way is fine.No matter which you choose buy new lifters and gears.
 

jm

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For an rv cam try Clifford... they sell direct through their website I think. For my 2f of unknown mileage a Clifford cam (where I6=v8), weber carb and headers brought the performance level up significantly.

jm
 
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Ok, not to sound like a dunce, but where can I get a clifford cam? I popped the head off last night...boy I got lucky, 1/3 of the #6 ex valve was gone, didn't do any damage to the cylinder wall.

Yes, I was planning on doing some "gasket matching" with a die grinder on the head, it's nice to farm with a friend who is a complete tool junky.
 
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Gasket matching is good, but the real gains come from the area where the bowl of the port meets the upper side of the valve seat. Often they are offset a bit in one direction or the other. Matching this part of port to valve seat will net you the biggest gains in flow. Afterall, the valve and seat are usually the largest retriction to flow in there, so anything you can help do to get the air/fuel past it easier is of benefit.
 

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