2F - Re-torquing #14 Head Bolt. Torque Wrench or No?

[Output Shaft]

Anyone know if a flex head torque wrench can get at the pesky #14 HB when everything is installed on the 2F engine?

Since a regular torque wrench won't fit in that spot, I've been using the good ole heave-ho guesstimation method with just a breaker bar feeling where 90(ish) ft-lbs might be for the last 2 decades.

But since it is time now for me to replace my ancient micrometer Craftsman torque wrench, I was thinking maybe a fancier flex head might work for this spot… but I don't want to buy one and find out it doesn't fit or work for #14.

Does it work?.. & if so... which one?

Thanks
http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/TRC250FA/1-2-DRIVE-FLEX-HEAD-TORQUE-WRENCH/
http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/TRC250FA/1-2-DRIVE-FLEX-HEAD-TORQUE-WRENCH/

http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Instruments-Torque-PREC3FR250F-Category/dp/B002XMSFIM

http://www.armstrongtools.com/preci...table-torque-wrench-flex-head-ratcheting.html

 

[OGBeno]

If it's worked for two decades, why change it now?

That said, I'm always in support of a reason to buy a new tool.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

the crows foot won't get in there? I just ditched the rear engine hook; used a manifold bolt hole to grab the chain with...

 

[Output Shaft]

For a HB retorque (with a torque wrench...not removal of the head), the crowsfoot (at least the SnapOn job I've got) doesn't fit nor offset far enough to be able to get an extension straight down into it. No can do.

Last time I had the head off, then back on...many years ago, I forgot to replace the rear hook - doh!- but found that it made access to the rear bolt a lot easier. Now the hook is back on.... Was just wondering if a flexhead torque wrench would work in that tight spot... if other guys used them... not mission critical... but since I need to buy a new torque wrench.... I was wondering...

The spot is so tight in there... I'm guessing maybe only a breaker bar will fit.. and the torque of that bolt will have to be done by feel.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

just ditch the hook...and get you a nice new torque wrench.

 

[Spike Strip]

I use an impact flex-socket and an extention and adjust the torque about 15%. I also just do it by feel. I don't want to say anything else to jinx it.

I like the hook. It comforts me.

Others may disagree, but I had a local Cruiser guru show me those last two head-bolt holes in the block are slightly shallower to account for the thickness of the rear hook. I asked MAFs engine builder about this and he said he's noticed it, too, and if the hook is missing, he adds washers to those head bolts so they don't hit bottom. I've never measured it myself, though. And this my only be on certain year engines.

 

[FJ40Jim]

19mm swivel socket & 1/2" extension is all that's needed to get at the back bolts.

 

[snobdds]

Just another option, I had to use this tool to remove the head bolts on a 6.0 Powerstoke. It saves from having to lift the cab. I have also found it very useful in other situtations.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...682220&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all