2F Motor Damage? (1 Viewer)

[xumFJ40]

Hey Gang,

I have a chance to buy a used 2F. I really only want/need the block for a project. The current owner says that he got the motor as a spare with a bunch of parts. The original owner told him that the motor had water (not antifreeze) in the radiator, and that the water froze...

The current owner says that the motor is not seized (can turn the crank by hand). The freeze plugs are still in place. He says that the dipstick shows about 1qt over full and does show some signs of water in the oil. It has been sitting for some time...

Given the description should I be concerned that the block is cracked or damaged?

Trying to figure out how much of a gamble I would be making hoping that the block is still good.

Thanks

 

[Rock40]

Well, it’s a gamble like you said. You could crack the oil drain plug and see what comes out. Any water will come out first. I’d be doing both a dry and wet compression test too. All you’d need is a starter, a battery and some loose cables

 

[xumFJ40]

Well, it’s a gamble like you said. You could crack the oil drain plug and see what comes out. Any water will come out first. I’d be doing both a dry and wet compression test too. All you’d need is a starter, a battery and some loose cables

So... I'm assuming that the drain plug check is just to get an idea of how much water is in there...

As for the compression tests

1) what would the wet vs dry tell me?
2) is good compression a foolproof way to make sure that the cylinders dont have cracks? Or just higher probability...

Just asking, because obviously you could have a low compression result, with out cracks also...

Thanks,

 

[Howard705]

Yes .very concerned if it's complete can cap off all hoses find wat to pressure test. Either hand pump or rig a regulator and plumb in using compressed air at about 20psi

 

[xumFJ40]

@Howard705 I am not sure I am following. I assumed that @Rock40 was talking about the type of compression test where you unscrew each of the spark plugs and test for compression stroke of each cylinder.

What you mention sounds like trying to check pressure a different way...

 

[Howard705]

Compression test checks the combustion chamber. When blocks/heads/manifolds freeze with water in them they can crack the block, head castings in strange spots where they buckle out slightly and crack. a radiator- type pressure testing will show leaks out of the water jacket. Don't hear of it too much anymore in cars but still a lot in boats with inboard engines. they cool with fresh water and people don't winterize them in time or at all. It's bad here in Illinois $$$ junk if not done. Think most engines have areas that are more prone (thin) to cracking idk on a 2f where. Good sign though that the freeze plugs didn't push out but not a guaranteed indication.

 

[Rock40]

@Howard705, agreed. Ideally I’d do both tests but pressurizing the water jacket is generally harder to do. Especially if he’s missing hoses and the radiator.

@xumFJ40, I don’t know what the asking price is but the only way to tell for sure will be a full teardown and magnaflux of the block. Some cracks can be incredibly small and may hold pressure cold. When the motor warms up tho, they can create problems. If it’s cheap I’d probably risk just running it

 

[Howard705]

Have to make plugs- using Expansion plugs- bolts hose clamped into heater hoses etc if it's complete. if you plug it well you can put lots more than 20# in it. since theres no radiator to blow- I've put a lot in years ago right off an air compressor - you just listen for leaks. If you hear any you never know where they may be- Ive seen them all over v8s etc - inside the block- at the valve spring seat come to mind.

 

[xumFJ40]

Thanks for all the input gents!