2f In-frame rebuild (1 Viewer)

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2f In-frame rebuild I am an old jeep man that has joined the Cruiser Crowd (1987 fj60). I have rebuilt a couple of engines, installed a nv4500, and refurbed and old allis chalmers, so I have some idea of how to work a wrench.

I might be completely nuts but I thought I would ask anyway. Is it possible to do an in-frame rebuild on a 2f. I noticed the rebuild kits come with piston cylinders like a tractor engine. I also notice there is what appears to be an access panel on the right side of the engine. I am really struggling over keeping the 2f or going to a 5.3 vortec. I need it to be dependable and still be able to pull a motorcycle trailer, while carrying the wife, 3 kids and a dog. Not to mention all the camping gear. I KNOW this, the 2f I have now runs fine enough around town but WILL NOT handle the task I described.

Thanks for any insight.
rdo
 
Rebuild kits come with piston cylinders??

New one to me..


A properly running FJ60 can haul a 2 horse, horse trailer without drama..

Yours sounds like it needs a bit of help. Have you done a tuneup/checked compression?
 
You might start with a carb rebuild and valve job, plus tuning the smog gear. A lot of performance problems may be solved without the drama of pulling the entire engine. Just a suggestion.

Mike S
 
Piston & cylinder kits are for the diesel Cruiser engine.

Like Mike said, one big reason the truck is currently a dog at higher RPM is because the carb vac secondary is inop.
Also look closely at dissy advance mechanisms, smog gear that is inop/improperly connected, manifold vacum leaks...
The usual culprits on a 20 year old vehicle.
 
Yes you can do an inframe "farm" rebuild on the 2f. There are no drop in cylinders that is mostly diesel thing or an aluminum block thing. Listen to what Mace and Jim said they know more than most when it comes to Cruisers.


Dynosoar:zilla:
 
Outstanding,,, you guys are quick, thanks so much. I guess I should have looked at the rebuild kits a bit closer. The in-frame rebuild might be a mute point as it looks like the rear seal is leaking. I found, on this sight, that it could be the transmission so I ordered a return line for the tranny to the transfer case. I will wait and see if that does it. WONDERFULLLLLL forum... I still miss my jeep a bit but I am starting to get over it.
 
'round here, pardner, we spell it: J**P and pronounce it: "Heep". ;);):cheers:

And welcome.

Incidentally, I'm slogging through a 2F rebuild right now. I jumped into it without really digging into options too much, and if I had to start over, considering the time and money and hassles of finding the right people to farm things out to, I probably would/should have gone with a v8 or even better, but spendy, a diesel.


Tried to post a pic, but the upload keeps failing... ?
 
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Well I tuned her up, adjusted the valves so it doesn't sound like a diesel any more and she has a bit more power. I think I am going to gear her because we all know that with enough gear, gas and time you can haul anything anywhere. I was going to get 4.10's if i did a v8, but I might try out 4.56's and see where that gets me. I am finding that parts are hard to acquire an d there is always a wait, so if i decide to go back to 4.10's I am sure one of you fellows will happily take the 4.56's off my hands. Still not sure if the main seal is leaking but I got the return line put on the tranny so we will see. Here is my trick, when I get a vehicle I take it to the car wash every other day and blow the dirt grit and grim of the bottom with the hot soap. After a month or so she is all shinny under there and it gets pretty easy to spot the oil leaks. I am just no there yet.

sorta looking forward to gearing a removable third member. I can actually set it up on a bench instead of lying on my back. YEEE HAAAA
 
Your rear main leak may turn out to be the oil pan gasket. It is fairly common for an old gasket on these to leak at the front and/or rear of the pan.
 
Your rear main leak may turn out to be the oil pan gasket. It is fairly common for an old gasket on these to leak at the front and/or rear of the pan.

X2 :) I would try just making sure the pan is tight. I found it a quick fix for what I thought was a bigger problem.
 
Get under your rig and take off the flywheel/clutch inspection cover. I think it takes the removal of 7 12mm bolts. Then, look at the front of your flywheel, the side next to the rear main. If that is dry, your rear main seal is probably good. And, the most likely cause of an engine oil leak is the oil pan. There are several good threads on this, try the search.
 
testimonial

As I have said I was an old jeep guy... NEVER AGAIN.. These land cruisers are wonderful. Here's a little story. I got rid of my jeep because it was not practical for my family. I decided to get a fj60. They turned out to be a little more pricey then I had anticipate. I finally found one in San Antonio, tx. with 160,000 miles for 4800. It had an shackle reversal and a transplanted 5 speed manual tranny. I live in Fort Worth but to me these things made it worth the drive, so I thought. Anyway I loaded the family up and drove there. The fellow forgot to mention some things. He casually mentions that it has a rear seal leek, and that the tranny sticks in 3rd gear occasionally. I test drove it and it's valve were so bad it did sound like a diesel, it vibrated at all speed horribly and it had NO power. So my mind goes at it. I am really good at suspension geometry so I knew I could fix the vibes, and I rationalized that I was going to rebuild the engine anyway and what the heck I could look at the tranny as well. I bought it. Anyway the highway trip back was a nightmare. My teeth still rattle from the trip. SO HERE
1) The drive line was out of phase, i phase it.
2)u-joints were loose, probably from all the vibes. I replaced them.
2) The rear drive line angles were not equal, I shimmed em.
3)YOU GUYS WERE RIGHT it was the oil pan. On a jeep it WOULD HAVE BEEN A REAR SEAL LEAK.
4) I adjusted the valves and tuned her, she is so quiet I can't tell its running.

So what is the moral of this story. Holly cow!!! Toyota's are tough. I might not have gotten a great deal but the body has no rust and very few light dings. 4800 +100 in misc parts and some elbow grease is all it took. It rides wonderfully, is quite, tracks true, it is a fabulous cruiser on and off the road. If this had been a jeep I would still be working on it. I thought I would share some thoughts with those wanting to buy a fj60. Do some research and you will find that even if they look and run rough there might be a jewel hidden under the grease. Usually if a jeep look and runs rough it is near death.

I said I would never own a rice burner. I was young and dumb at the time.
 
Hell, RDO, if you found one without RUST and an H55 (5spd), it was worth the 4800.

Congrat's !
 
I may be stoned by some of the folks here but if you are planning a lot of highway trailer hauling with the wife and kids aboard, the small block conversion makes a lot of sense. If your intention is a lot of off highway driving, my choice would be the 2F. Your dilema is one faced by each and every FJ60 owner at one time or another. It is part of the program.
 
tranny sticks in 3rd gear

My manual 5 speed sticks in gear. It doesn't do it very often but when it does the only way to get it out is sit there long enough for engine to wind down or double clutch. Goes in gear fine and most of the time comes out of gear fine.The tranny seems tight and the fellow said it was rebuilt. His track record hasn't been good but like I said it seems tight.

Any insight?
 
Try posting your other issue as a separate thread.

You may get more, and quicker insight.

Glad you ditched the Jeep.

Keep on criuisin.
 

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