2F/4 speed minor clutch issue question (1 Viewer)

Joined
Oct 23, 2019
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Flagstaff, AZ
Hey guys,
Quick question. As of late, it has gotten increasingly difficult to get my rig into first gear while at a stop. Like the clutch isn't disengaged all the way, but pedal is to the floor. Thinking that it perhaps needs bled? Or more likely (thinking as I'm typing this) just adjusted. Clutch cylinder reservoir is at appropriate level, though, I've noticed a class 2 leak coming from the clutch cylinder linkage on the inside of the rig!

Here's my 60: (pic for interest. I try not to start a thread without a picture...)

20191207_132326.jpg
 
Joined
Dec 23, 2011
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Orange County, NY
Interesting post. I have the same exact issue in my 86 Mini-truck. I have done all the adjusting I could, there was some improvement, had the clutch engage as late as possible to allow it to disengage at full stop with a depressed pedal. I then reversed everything back to within specs as the clutch was slipping in high gear. Done some research and found that the most likely issue is that the clutch disc is distorted, kind of like a number 8 when looking at it from the side. Now, I have not changed it yet, even though I have a brand new clutch kit, as my 60 is occupying all my free time, but I plan on doing so soon. When I come to a stop I just leave it in gear and and I don't have to worry about grinding synchros..
 

OSS

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Remember that the inertia of the big gears in the transmission take a few seconds to spin down.

Unlike a car or even Toyota mini truck, you can't snap the transmission into gears without grinding them on a cruiser. You've got to shift up until you feel very light pressure on the syncros, wait about two seconds, then push it the rest of the way into gear engagement. It takes a little finess.

The problem could be caused by two things.
Either the hydraulic system isn't pushing the clutch far enough to disengage the disc form the pressure plate, or the pilot bearing is shot.

It's easy to rule out the hydraulic system:
With engine off, press the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and secure it there with a piece of wood or something so that you can leave it pushed all the way in while you're out of the cruiser.

Go under the truck and remove the flywheel inspection cover. You should be able to easily rotate the clutch disk with your fingers. It shouldn't be binding.

Next- start the engine and secure the clutch pedal all the way to the floor as before — then (while engine is idling) crawl under the truck and take a look at the clutch disc. It shouldn't be spinning.

If the clutch disc rotated smoothly when the engine was off (using your fingers) but was rotating when the engine was idling,, the culprit may be a binding pilot bearing.
(Transmission has to be removed to replace it)
 
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GLTHFJ60

Rum Runnin'
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^ Pretty much spot on.

If the clutch is not disengaging all the way, then it will be hard to shift into/out of any gears while the vehicle is stopped.
 

2mbb

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^^ transmission should be in neutral, I think. If the transmission is in gear, the clutch disk won't spin.
 

2mbb

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Clutch cylinder reservoir is at appropriate level, though, I've noticed a class 2 leak coming from the clutch cylinder linkage on the inside of the rig!
I had to look up what a class 2 leak is. This may indicate that the master is failing. The rubber boot on that end may be containing the fluid so you can't really tell how bad the leak is. You can try and pull the boot back or pull it away from the plunger shaft to see if more liquid comes out.

If you do replace the master, you should replace the slave at the same time.
 
Joined
Oct 23, 2019
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Location
Flagstaff, AZ
I had to look up what a class 2 leak is. This may indicate that the master is failing. The rubber boot on that end may be containing the fluid so you can't really tell how bad the leak is. You can try and pull the boot back or pull it away from the plunger shaft to see if more liquid comes out.

If you do replace the master, you should replace the slave at the same time.

Sorry. I should have just said that it was leaking enough to cause a periodic drip. We talk class 1/2/3 leaks at work.
 
Joined
Oct 23, 2019
Messages
76
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Flagstaff, AZ
If MC is failing, perhaps even with enough fluid in the reservoir, it isn't moving enough fluid to fully disengage the clutch. Perhaps I'll look into a rebuild kit, or a new master cylinder first, along with a fluid flush, then see how she acts, before getting into other diagnostics, since it needs to be done, irregardless to whether it is the culprit causing the symptoms I described. Just might fix it!

Seems as though a rebuilt kit would be dirt cheap and very simple.
 
Joined
Dec 14, 2005
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colorado
Hey guys,
Quick question. As of late, it has gotten increasingly difficult to get my rig into first gear while at a stop. Like the clutch isn't disengaged all the way, but pedal is to the floor. Thinking that it perhaps needs bled? Or more likely (thinking as I'm typing this) just adjusted. Clutch cylinder reservoir is at appropriate level, though, I've noticed a class 2 leak coming from the clutch cylinder linkage on the inside of the rig!

Here's my 60: (pic for interest. I try not to start a thread without a picture...)

View attachment 2336381
Sounds like your slave cylinder is leaking check your slave cylinder and there might be some are being introduced into it. When the clutch goes to the floor and you can't shift it sounds like air in the system.
 

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