275 60 r20 toyo at3’s

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Joined
Nov 28, 2020
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Location
central florida
Would someone with more experience care to offer some feedback/advice regarding a toyo at3 in 275 60 r20.

Weight seems to keep the lx tire and rim weight very close to stock, even though it’s a taller all terrain tire than stock.

Does the “load range, service description, and max load” match up with the requirements of an lx570? With some bumpers and gear would the tires no longer be appropriate?

  • Size:
    275/60R20
  • Service Description:
    115T
  • Load Range:
    SL
  • UTQG:
    600 A B
  • Max Load:
    2,679 lbs
  • Max Inflation Pressure:
    44 psi
  • Tread Depth:
    13.5/32"
  • Tire Weight:
    42 lbs
 
Would someone with more experience care to offer some feedback/advice regarding a toyo at3 in 275 60 r20.

Weight seems to keep the lx tire and rim weight very close to stock, even though it’s a taller all terrain tire than stock.

Does the “load range, service description, and max load” match up with the requirements of an lx570? With some bumpers and gear would the tires no longer be appropriate?

  • Size:
    275/60R20
  • Service Description:
    115T
  • Load Range:
    SL
  • UTQG:
    600 A B
  • Max Load:
    2,679 lbs
  • Max Inflation Pressure:
    44 psi
  • Tread Depth:
    13.5/32"
  • Tire Weight:
    42 lbs

Thats already a 1,000 lbs over your real rear axle load per tire, you are fine. If this sidewall was any taller aspect i would tell you to forget about a P tire, but this will do fine. Keep in mind though the P a/t 3 is not a real a/t 3, it is a wholly different tire and made with a different process. Just shares a “design” and tread pattern.

Personally depends on your use case if i were to have any issue to your choice.
 
Thats already a 1,000 lbs over your real rear axle load per tire, you are fine. If this sidewall was any taller aspect i would tell you to forget about a P tire, but this will do fine. Keep in mind though the P a/t 3 is not a real a/t 3, it is a wholly different tire and made with a different process. Just shares a “design” and tread pattern.

Personally depends on your use case if i were to have any issue to your choice.
Would you care to elaborate a bit on how it’s different and how it’s manufactured differently?

I like that it’s lightweight, but I’m not sure precisely what it may have sacrificed to become that lightweight.
 
Would you care to elaborate a bit on how it’s different and how it’s manufactured differently?

I like that it’s lightweight, but I’m not sure precisely what it may have sacrificed to become that lightweight.

Bingo, youre thinking in the right direction.

Do a search i have written about this ad nauseam. Also dont worry about weight so much, try your best to match stock package and if you are sensor lifting you can go 20% higher; any more and your digging a hole specially if youre adding weight to the rig.

I would never ever ever recomend the P A/T 3 to anybody unless you really understand that you are getting a vastly inferior product to the real A\T 3 LT made in the usa.
 
Would you care to elaborate a bit on how it’s different and how it’s manufactured differently?

I like that it’s lightweight, but I’m not sure precisely what it may have sacrificed to become that lightweight.

You should do your research on this and try not to take forums opinions as facts specially when they refer to things in absolutes. I'm fully armored and have been happy with my P rated AT3s. I specifically chose the P rated ones because they have more silica in their compound as well as more siping.
 
You should do your research on this and try not to take forums opinions as facts specially when they refer to things in absolutes. I'm fully armored and have been happy with my P rated AT3s. I specifically chose the P rated ones because they have more silica in their compound as well as more siping.
which p rated at3’s are you using?
 
You should do your research on this and try not to take forums opinions as facts specially when they refer to things in absolutes. I'm fully armored and have been happy with my P rated AT3s. I specifically chose the P rated ones because they have more silica in their compound as well as more siping.

Lol, and then you fail to provide anything other than an anecdote? Thats ok by me but youre very wrong. This isnt the only forum discussing it either. Ive owned both and so my anecdote wins!
 
Exactly my point

Well here are some facts for you since youre unaware.

Less tread depth (common)
Less sidewall depth (deceptive)
Made with a less advanced process as i had confirmed with toyo directly.

And ill add to those facts with my opinion that they are woefully inadequate for our rigs in plus sizes and terribly uncomfortable in any adequate PSI for a P tire being that they are way way too soft.

Im not in a mood to argue but i will chuckle if you “disagree”
 
Well here are some facts for you since youre unaware.

Less tread depth (common)
Less sidewall depth (deceptive)
Made with a less advanced process as i had confirmed with toyo directly.

And ill add to those facts with my opinion that they are woefully inadequate for our rigs in plus sizes and terribly uncomfortable in any adequate PSI for a P tire being that they are way way too soft.

Im not in a mood to argue but i will chuckle if you “disagree”
I disagree
 
Well here are some facts for you since youre unaware.

Less tread depth (common)
Less sidewall depth (deceptive)
Made with a less advanced process as i had confirmed with toyo directly.

And ill add to those facts with my opinion that they are woefully inadequate for our rigs in plus sizes and terribly uncomfortable in any adequate PSI for a P tire being that they are way way too soft.

Im not in a mood to argue but i will chuckle if you “disagree”
Are the toyo at3’s of varying sizes being made w less tread depth, less sidewall depth, and a less advanced process?

Or are all toyo at3’s similar…and you’re saying some other “at3” from another brand is of a higher quality?
 
Are the toyo at3’s of varying sizes being made w less tread depth, less sidewall depth, and a less advanced process?

Or are all toyo at3’s similar…and you’re saying some other “at3” from another brand is of a higher quality?

First part. P rated and white lettering made in Japan is not made the same nor does it look the same. Nor is it correct outside of eom sizes to use on your rig specially if like this guy up here you are heavier than stock. Its a bad move.

Like i said before mr pious came along in your size you should be fine, but just know it looks like a cheap knock off. Load cap has nothing to do with things.

Theres a reason its lighter than everything else on the market, its a piece of crap.
 
@highfructose heres a good comparison photo i took.

I would say if you dont see a whole lot of ice / snow and maybe a ton of heavy rain there is no good reason not to go LT.
Even then most would recommend a dedicated snow/winter setup and i would too if safety is your priority.
Just wanted to make sure you were aware of this, and that the P difference is not mentioned anywhere by Toyo and they act like they are all identical.

BTW the A/T 3 is NOT a hybrid tire, so keep that in mind, its an all terrain.
It doesnt have a lot of meat to begin with and that given that and the above is why i went to a C load.
Its now perfect for the vehicle and gives me more flexibility in airing up and down.
If you get the P dont be surprised it looks like crap as i was. Just trying to make sure you get a chance to make an educated choice since i was deprived of that.
Its a lot of money to most people.

IMG_0295.jpeg
IMG_0773.jpeg
 
I can’t speak for AT3 specifically but I was quite happy with my P-metric 285/80R17 AT2s, though I did run more pressure than the calculated minimum. Vastly improved ride quality over the e-rated LT285/65R18s I had before, mostly due to being able to run 10psi less.

Anymal has a point that it is a different tire and other than advertising that it is available in a p-metric you’d have to dig into the spec sheet to see the tread depth and weight differences.

End of day the p-metric does have a lighter weight construction and both the less deep tread and thinner tire carcass are exactly what allows less required tire pressure to avoid overheating than a LT tire, but this thinner carcass saves fuel and weight too. Also as mentioned the silica content can be better for rain and snow/ice.

I do think it is an appropriate tire for some uses, and my p-metric AT2s served me well. I did eventually go with LT-metric AT3s once I got dampers that could effectively handle the extra weight and tire spring rate (correlated to tire pressure)

As for 275/60/20.. personally I wouldn’t run anything narrower than stock. My friend’s LX on p-metric 285/55/20 AT3s looks great and has enough tread to add valuable traction when needed while not giving up much mileage. IMO this is a great setup.
 
I can’t speak for AT3 specifically but I was quite happy with my P-metric 285/80R17 AT2s, though I did run more pressure than the calculated minimum. Vastly improved ride quality over the e-rated LT285/65R18s I had before, mostly due to being able to run 10psi less.

Anymal has a point that it is a different tire and other than advertising that it is available in a p-metric you’d have to dig into the spec sheet to see the tread depth and weight differences.

End of day the p-metric does have a lighter weight construction and both the less deep tread and thinner tire carcass are exactly what allows less required tire pressure to avoid overheating than a LT tire, but this thinner carcass saves fuel and weight too. Also as mentioned the silica content can be better for rain and snow/ice.

I do think it is an appropriate tire for some uses, and my p-metric AT2s served me well. I did eventually go with LT-metric AT3s once I got dampers that could effectively handle the extra weight and tire spring rate (correlated to tire pressure)

Bloc is correct, ANY P tire vs its LT variant no matter the brand or type will be grippier, lighter, and softer due to compounds and construction.
In the case of the A/T 3 though its a pretty stark difference as you can see.
It is also the case too that an LT will be more resistant to de-beading because of all that.
Like my initial post said, your use case is important.

I would also wager to say that you will see the most of the efficiency benefit of the lighter package in the city.
On the highway its damn near the same ball game given you can get the pressures all to correct equivalents and both are rolling in round.

I sincerely didnt see much drawbacks to going with the C load. E loads you may have a diff experience with.
But i find Cs to be the perfect middle ground. And this is with painstaking trial and error and a direct A/B comparison.
 
Freeway with the greater RPMs and therefore more flexing over a given timeframe, is actually where a lower rolling resistance tire will really shine, and that is what my mileage numbers bore out. Yes lighter should help with accel/decel in the city.. but these trucks are so inefficient there I’m not sure the difference of a few pounds will really matter.
 
Freeway with the greater RPMs and therefore more flexing over a given timeframe, is actually where a lower rolling resistance tire will really shine, and that is what my mileage numbers bore out. Yes lighter should help with accel/decel in the city.. but these trucks are so inefficient there I’m not sure the difference of a few pounds will really matter.
Would you happen to know how the 285 70 r17 k02 in load range c (2755 lbs) compare to the Toyo at3 275 60 r20 load range sl (2679 lbs) for durability for our trucks?

Can one just trust the numbers provided by manufacturers and compare them?

Is there an ideal minimum “max load rating” that one should be seeking for our 6,000 lb vehicles?

Is there some unlisted factor one must research to determine if the manufacturer is producing a lower quality product than the numbers would indicate?
 

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