260k - Torn CV Boot - Reboot or Replace? (1 Viewer)

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mistered123

mistered123

Joined
Jan 1, 2019
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Location
Centennial, Colorado
2003 LC with 260k on it, ~2" lift. From records I have, I think the CVs are factory - never been replaced. Clamps have been replaced 3-4 times. I have a torn boot on the right one. The Toyota speciality shop I normally use is recommending reboot at $721.06 and dealer is recommending replace with reman for $350-400.

What are your guys' thoughts? If they are factory, I would think it's wise to replace both CV axles at this point.
 
If i were you i would, do a whole refresh with new axles, new hub flanges, C clips, new bearings as well if not replaced before. Inspect ball joints as well, while having the knuckle off to replace the axles, ball joints removal is easy with the right tool.
 
Last edited:
Reman is a hard pass in my book, but some folks are fine with them.

The 100 OEM CV splines and joints can last essentially forever if properly maintained and serviced. If yours have zero spline wear and no noise from the joints, I'd consider a reboot. If there's any wear, buy new (I'm a fan of OEM). OEM complete CVs are $350-400 each, so be careful with the reboot labor. At $100/hour the reboot might cost close to a new axle assembly.
 
FxFormat said:
If i were you i would, do a whole refresh with new axles, new hub flanges, C clips, new bearings as well if not replaced before.
Click to expand...

So if I were to do that, I think these are the parts that would be needed - please let me know if I'm missing anything:
  • CV axle
  • Oil seal
  • Inner bearing and race
  • Outer bearing and race
  • Lock Washer
  • Gasket
  • Flange
  • Snap Ring
 
mistered123 said:
So if I were to do that, I think these are the parts that would be needed - please let me know if I'm missing anything:
  • CV axle
  • Oil seal
  • Inner bearing and race
  • Outer bearing and race
  • Lock Washer
  • Gasket
  • Flange
  • Snap Ring
Click to expand...
I am in the middle of doing what you described above. I would hold off on new bearings until the tear down phase. My bearings at 207k are in amazingly good condition. OEM is Timken and readily sourced if you end up needing to get new ones. Also, if you do end up going the new bearing route it may be advisable to also pick up a set of new rotors as the race is pressed into that for the bearing to seat into.
 
FxFormat said:
If i were you i would, do a whole refresh with new axles, new hub flanges, C clips, new bearings as well if not replaced before. Inspect ball joints as well, while having the knuckle off to replace the axles, ball joints removal is easy with the right tool.
Click to expand...
What is the best place to buy oem, I'm about the replace my right CV joint as well as wheel bearing.
 
suprarx7nut said:
Reman is a hard pass in my book
Click to expand...
☝ I concur. Also, I tend to take a different approach than others: It's unlikely that your CV joints are bad so no need to toss an otherwise good axle that just needs new boots, new outer splines, and new grease. Safe yourself $500 and get a new OEM outboard shaft assembly, which comes with new inner and outer boots: 43460-69036 - Genuine Toyota SHAFT ASSEMBLY,OUTBOARD For $400, you can refresh the outer splines and boots on both sides.
 
JunkCrzr89 said:
☝ I concur. Also, I tend to take a different approach than others: It's unlikely that your CV joints are bad so no need to toss an otherwise good axle that just needs new boots, new outer splines, and new grease. Safe yourself $500 and get a new OEM outboard shaft assembly, which comes with new inner and outer boots: 43460-69036 - Genuine Toyota SHAFT ASSEMBLY,OUTBOARD For $400, you can refresh the outer splines and boots on both sides.
Click to expand...
I just saw some video about the 60120 re-boot kit, so I am clear the reboot just put the grease in and the new boot on, but 43460-69036 you just mentioned here is 199 dollars, seems only come with outer end of the cv axle, so how we use this 69036? means this will replace the outer end but still keep the inner as old?
 
zhloea said:
I just saw some video about the 60120 re-boot kit, so I am clear the reboot just put the grease in and the new boot on, but 43460-69036 you just mentioned here is 199 dollars, seems only come with outer end of the cv axle, so how we use this 69036? means this will replace the outer end but still keep the inner as old?
Click to expand...
69036 replaces the outboard joint, tulip, shaft, and boot, as well as the inboard boot.
 
JunkCrzr89 said:
69036 replaces the outboard joint, tulip, shaft, and boot, as well as the inboard boot.
Click to expand...
Well, this kit basically gives you a new CV axle, I remember someone said the outboard part is difficult to re-boot. I still have an OEM on the passenger side, I originally plan to re-boot it, so if I am ok 150 more, I think 69036 will be much better and easy to do, right?
 
zhloea said:
Well, this kit basically gives you a new CV axle, I remember someone said the outboard part is difficult to re-boot. I still have an OEM on the passenger side, I originally plan to re-boot it, so if I am ok 150 more, I think 69036 will be much better and easy to do, right?
Click to expand...
Yes. I just bought another set of 69036 outboard kits the other day.
 
JunkCrzr89 said:
Yes. I just bought another set of 69036 outboard kits the other day.
Click to expand...
My CV axle covered by dust and oil, I could bearly tell the outboard boot seems to come from Toyota (and I need to double-check). So basically, how could we tell these grease dirty old CV axle is OEM?

I mean if I bought that kit then found my axle not really an OEM one, I will be screwed...
 
Clean it off. Look for yellow boot clamps on outboard joint.
12c11617fccbefa884d7f5cfada5fd3d.png
 
Anyone know the oem part number for the inner boot clamp?
048B32EA-568C-468A-819A-77DCDA2B295A.jpeg

I just saw this earlier, not too much leak but eventually it will. This is driver side, inner.
 
Is there a split boot available for our 100's?
Several years ago I noted that the CV axle boot was split wide open on my 2000 Isuzu Trooper.
Purchased clam shell boots, removed old split boot, cleaned off the old grease, regreased, and installed the clam boot.
Been fine for over 6 years now.

My clam boots were two halves that you glued together.
A little fiddley but I have seen boots where you only glue together one side.

Saved having to pull the entire Axle and having to install a Chinese-made one.
 
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