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24v Elec issues

Discussion in 'Diesel Tech / 24 volts' started by Funksolid, Feb 21, 2007.

  1. Funksolid

    Funksolid

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    When I bought my 24v Hj60 (jdm) from the dealership THEY installed a CD player in it. Well for 4 months they have not been able to figure out how to install it right. It constantly draws (15 milli-amps) power from the battery even when the CD player is powered off. 100 boosts later, I have sent it in I dunno.... 4 times and they still cannot find a fix for it (all the other Landcruisers they sell have the same issue I guess)

    Does anyone have a fix for these "licensed mechanics"?

    Also when I was driving to Kamloops on the weekend a rock went through one of my headlights:mad: Where do you people buy more (rectangle low beam) headlights? I'm in Calgary.

    Thank You!!
     
  2. Ron R

    Ron R Drive a Landruiser, enjoy life

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    I guess there is a power-converter installed to provide 12V for the CDplayer.
    This converter will draw some current, even if the CD-player is switched off. But also when the ignition is off, if directly connected to the battery-bus. This is often done this way.
    If the power-converter is directly connected to the battery, make them install a switch between battery and converter. Even better, get them to install a relay instead of a switch. This relay should be engaged from the 'acc' - connection of the ignition-key. That way the converter will be off when the ignition key is removed and when starting the engine. With the key in 'ACC' and 'ON' position power is provided for the converter.

    Hope the above does ;)

    Wish I could. But I don't live in your area.
     
  3. jmylie

    jmylie

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    Most new cd players will draw some voltage for the clock function and radio pre-sets (if it has a radio). The HJ60 also has a clock which will draw some power.

    I was told that a power converter will not draw power on it's own.

    Easy way is to add a switch to turn off the cd player completely.
     
  4. eleblanc

    eleblanc

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    are you pulling current from one battery? if yes, don't and get a converter. Tons of thread about this, use search
     
  5. haffi

    haffi

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    15 milli amps does not sound much, should be ok for the batteries if they are in good condition.

    Are you sure the draw is only 15 milli amps?
    What about the batteries? Sure they are ok....

    Once you totally empty a battery it might be dead. If one of the batteries is bad, it can damege the other one. I recomend you to visit a battery expert to measure the batteries.

    In a normal car, the radio, the clock, engine and transmission computers, anti-theft devises and lots of other stuff draw some power. 100-120 milliamps can be normal draw, so your 15 milliamps should no bother the batteries unless the car is left unused for many weeks at a time.
     
  6. eleblanc

    eleblanc

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    That is what i thought, it will keep one battery from going bad. 1 milli or 100, doesn't mather it will only change time until the truck won't start. That is when you suck up on one battery in a 24v two battery setup
     
  7. Funksolid

    Funksolid

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    Here

    Here is what the people wrote...

    (Anyone on those headlights??)

    I drive my Lc every day, and over a few days the battery slowly starts to die.

    Thanks Submit this.JPG
    Submit this.JPG
     
  8. haffi

    haffi

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    First of all make sure all the battery connectors and the ground connetions to the engine is good.

    In a 24 volt system both batteries need to be the sama size and in the same condition. Since one battery was bad, I recomend you to replace them both.

    Then get a 24v-12v volt converter, never "steal" 12v power from the lower side battery. I´v been there and it was trouble all the way.
    Try to get a converter thad draws no power unloaded. Connect it to the 24v power outlet next to the air filter house.
    I would use a 24 volt relay to make me a 12v acc power so the radio turns on and off when turning the key.


    In my old HJ61 (see pics http://www.pbase.com/haffinn/) I ended up adding a 12v alternator and a aux battery. I powered all the aux stuff (radio, amplifier, VHF radio, all the aux lights, my 12v cooler etc.) with the 12v system and kept the 24v just for the original stuff.

    I had alot of troubles with all that 12v stuff and converters until I got the 12v alternator and 3 new batteries ;) so I know your pain ;)
     
  9. Joe70

    Joe70

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    As Haffi has said, you will need 2 new batteries and a converter. I've been using a Samlex converter for the last year and it works great and is reasonably priced. If you would like a detailed description of my install, let me know.
     
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2007
  10. skoki

    skoki

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    As mentioned you are stealing power from the low side battery. Get a converter and run your 12v accessories off of that. I run my CB radio, cd player and 12v cigarette lighter for charging cell phone and gps off it. I wired a 6 gang hella fuse block into the converter so I can quickly & easily wire 12 v accessories into the truck. As mentioned in your headlight post, your headlights should be 12v not 24.
     
  11. Funksolid

    Funksolid

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    24v

    So I should tell the dealership to do all these things (converter ECT...) So how did they wire it without this essential converter?

    Thanks for all your input.


    Andrew
     
  12. skoki

    skoki

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    Which dealership are you dealing with? Personally, I would avoid almost any dealership like the plague. They tend to charge you ridiculous prices for mediocre work. I only use them for buying factory parts that you can't get elsewhere. Like my $10 a bolt fasteners for bolting my driveshaft to the transfer case. Your converter hooks up with a single thick gauge wire running from your highside battery and a good ground. Any decent shop could do it for you. As for how did they wire it without the essential converter? They wired it improperly, that's how. They created the battery drain problem and then dropped it in your lap. What scares me is that they don't seem to have the faintest idea what they're doing.
     
  13. Joe70

    Joe70

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    Sounds like they just slapped it together to make a quick buck (go figure). I would kick up a big stink and see if you can get them to put in a converter on their dime. At the very least they should be responsible for installing a supplied converter. Make sure to remind them that they killed both of your batteries and they should be held responsible.
     
  14. Greg_B

    Greg_B

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    15 millamps is really not very much at all, and many converters with huge heat sinks are much more inefficent then that...and people have used them for years. As has been said, sounds like there is more then simply that small draw, and likely your entire stereo (alarm??) is drawn off the lowside battery only...which is a big nono.

    As mentioned, get a converter and install a gang fuse strip supplied with power from the 12V output line. Then take all your 12V needs off this fuse strip. Keep in mind the total draw of your 12V needs, and balance that against the output of the converter you purchase.

    Joe70...pm sent.

    hth's

    gb
     
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2007
  15. Frode S

    Frode S

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    Hm... differences galore. Norwegian HJ's have 24 v 70w headlights. Go figure:rolleyes: