I'm planning on ordering a set of polyurethane leaf spring/shackle bushings from MAF. Is 24 the right number (three pair for each leaf spring) that I'm gonna need? I so hate being away from my Cruiser 
24 bushings? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Spook50
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lowenbrau
SILVER Star
yes
- Thread starter
- #3
Sweet. Thanks 
Spooky - you going to all the trouble (almost) of a complete suspension re-do to just change the bushings? You'll end up cutting &/or boogering all the pins/bolts. Save up for a Dakar!
One thing you need to do is order LOTS of that grease. The largest container they sell isn't enough to do all 24. When I rebushed the front of mine, we started running low on the grease and went out local to try to find more...AutoZone, Advanced, etc (Napa was closed) - no one knew what we were talking about "Duh...I put them bushings in my Civic and din't use no special grease...duh..."
Also, I didn't have a problem with my pins breaking. The rear pins in the back were really stuck, but that's about it. We used a BF Rubber Mallet and beat the shackle pins out (and sprayed them with silicon lube). Took some muscle and a little bottle jack to fine-tune the tension in the pin/bushing to get it to move, but that's it.
When you do the front, make sure you have plenty of jackstands. We wound up needing 3 jack stands, a bottle jack, and two 3-ton floor jacks. Seems like we used one of those small $15 rolling 2 ton jacks as well.
Also, when you are up under there, you should also replace the bushings on your front sway bar (There are two D shaped ones in the front, and 8 small ones that go to the end links) - you have to go stock Toyota for the D shaped ones if you don't have the heavier aftermarket sway bar, but that's no big deal (I replaced the metal brackets that go around the D shaped ones in the front, also) but you can get the 8 polly bushings for the end links. If you do the end links, you may need to replace those as well. Mine were corroded solid and wasn't able to change all of the bushings. By doing the sway bar and end link bushings, you may add another $15 to the total cost of the job if you don't replace the end link hardware. I think the end link gear may cost you another $15 - $20.
Parts 61 and 62 are the D shaped bushings and the end link stuff is all 65-69 (in that area) CDan can set you up on the cheap for the D shaped stuff - and if you have a stock setup and really want to get into it, he can set you up with stock Yota shocks for cheap, too (And while you are under there... )
Also, I didn't have a problem with my pins breaking. The rear pins in the back were really stuck, but that's about it. We used a BF Rubber Mallet and beat the shackle pins out (and sprayed them with silicon lube). Took some muscle and a little bottle jack to fine-tune the tension in the pin/bushing to get it to move, but that's it.
When you do the front, make sure you have plenty of jackstands. We wound up needing 3 jack stands, a bottle jack, and two 3-ton floor jacks. Seems like we used one of those small $15 rolling 2 ton jacks as well.
Also, when you are up under there, you should also replace the bushings on your front sway bar (There are two D shaped ones in the front, and 8 small ones that go to the end links) - you have to go stock Toyota for the D shaped ones if you don't have the heavier aftermarket sway bar, but that's no big deal (I replaced the metal brackets that go around the D shaped ones in the front, also) but you can get the 8 polly bushings for the end links. If you do the end links, you may need to replace those as well. Mine were corroded solid and wasn't able to change all of the bushings. By doing the sway bar and end link bushings, you may add another $15 to the total cost of the job if you don't replace the end link hardware. I think the end link gear may cost you another $15 - $20.
Parts 61 and 62 are the D shaped bushings and the end link stuff is all 65-69 (in that area) CDan can set you up on the cheap for the D shaped stuff - and if you have a stock setup and really want to get into it, he can set you up with stock Yota shocks for cheap, too (And while you are under there...
)
Tinker said:
Dude, it takes no time at all to rebush...and you can do it one end at a time so you don't rush, and re bushing costs under $50 - last time I checked the Dakar was about $1200.
Now if time/money isn't an object...
BlueCruiser84
SILVER Star
when i redid my suspension, all the pins that came out were fused to the bushings and we had to burn/cut/beat the pins to hell before they would even move.
Now that I think about it, I did drill a few holes into a few of the old bushings to get them out/free from the pins. I went into it knowing I didn't have another set of pins, and that what was there HAD to be reused.
Some of my bushings were worn completely through. Needless to say, they came right out.
Then again, that was all on the driver's side. On the pass side, everything just popped right out with little to no fuss at all.
Oh, one other thing - if you get that pop in the front end when you turn, what I did to remedy it was, while the springs were extended and opened up, I sprayed aerosol lithium grease in between each leaf. The aerosol stuff expands after a while so you get full covereage, and lubing the springs got rid of the pop.
You can also pack them with bearing grease - just be sure to get something that's submersible and sticky - but as I understand it, you have to pack them, then wrap the springs in ducktape or something to keep the grease in, and to help it work through the spring.
I read in another thread that you were going to maybe add-a-leaf anyway, so you could go the grease route pretty easily - just be sure to do it while all of that's apart.
Some of my bushings were worn completely through. Needless to say, they came right out.
Then again, that was all on the driver's side. On the pass side, everything just popped right out with little to no fuss at all.
Oh, one other thing - if you get that pop in the front end when you turn, what I did to remedy it was, while the springs were extended and opened up, I sprayed aerosol lithium grease in between each leaf. The aerosol stuff expands after a while so you get full covereage, and lubing the springs got rid of the pop.
You can also pack them with bearing grease - just be sure to get something that's submersible and sticky - but as I understand it, you have to pack them, then wrap the springs in ducktape or something to keep the grease in, and to help it work through the spring.
I read in another thread that you were going to maybe add-a-leaf anyway, so you could go the grease route pretty easily - just be sure to do it while all of that's apart.
swank60 said:
Do you have anymore info on the grease you are talking about? I have a new suspension that has been sitting around since last Sept. waiting to be installed. I was just going to use moly chassis grease for the bushings whenever I get around to the install.
EDIT: The bushings I will be using are poly.
Last edited:
Go to your local swimming pool supply store.
Ask for "Magic Lube". A clear sticky silicone-teflon lube that water will not wash away.
Comes in large 'toothpaste tube' container.
Wear gloves (rubber surgens style), stuff isn't harmful, just really tough to 'wash off' yer hands . . .
better than KY jelly !
Ask for "Magic Lube". A clear sticky silicone-teflon lube that water will not wash away.
Comes in large 'toothpaste tube' container.
Wear gloves (rubber surgens style), stuff isn't harmful, just really tough to 'wash off' yer hands . . .
better than KY jelly !
KevinG - Soggy's got it - though I didn't know about the pool supply thing. I've always heard you shoudn't use moly grease on the poly bushings, but I'm not sure why that is - I think it either won't stay on the bushings or eats on the surface of the poly...??? anyone know?
And man, that stuff silicon-teflon stuff is STICKY! I used latex gloves when I applied it...
And man, that stuff silicon-teflon stuff is STICKY! I used latex gloves when I applied it...
Thanks guys.
- Thread starter
- #14
Tinker said:
I'm ordering all new shackles & pins too
I'm actually just taking care of alot of the "pre-SOA" stuff on my suspension and steering (with the exception of shocks, of course). Shackles, bushings, shackle reversal, knuckle rebuild (including new DBA slotted rotors, WOOHOO!) and new tie rod ends.
Hey Soggy, were you able to use that magic lube stuff in a grease gun? Sounds like some sticky gunk. Wonder if it'd work good for the leaf springs as well...
loeky
SILVER Star
i've been kicking around the idea of starting a redo of all the suspension bushings w/ poly kit i found online. does this really need 5+ jacks to do the front? i was going to tackle this by myself, but now am a little hesitant.
any general advice for how to proceed?
any general advice for how to proceed?
David*BJ70
Looking forward to reach the end of the world
Look for a Energy suspension suplier near your area. It cost me about 32$CDN for the front kit (the same for the rear kit) here in Montreal . It came in black (82106G) or red (82106R).
Hold on here. You use a little grease on the bushing in order to ease installation. Silicone greases are good for rubber because silicones are fairly inert. Silicones are used in the food industry, medical (even breast implants), and in areas where lubrication will contact rubber.
Poly bushings are prone to squeak, and that's why they need to be greased, as in greasable shackles. They're fairly impervious to chassis greases, even moly grease. You don't need to use silicones.
Rubber on the other hand, can degrade with greases because of the petroleum. That's where a silicone is recommened. And you don't necessarily have to grease rubber bushings as a regular maintainance procedure.
.
Poly bushings are prone to squeak, and that's why they need to be greased, as in greasable shackles. They're fairly impervious to chassis greases, even moly grease. You don't need to use silicones.
Rubber on the other hand, can degrade with greases because of the petroleum. That's where a silicone is recommened. And you don't necessarily have to grease rubber bushings as a regular maintainance procedure.
.
Hi Loekyloeky said:
I've redone the bushes all round by myself no problem, it's an easy DIY job and makes a big difference to the ride. You won't need all the jacks and stands referred to in a previous post as I believe they did the linkages at the same time - not necessary unless they are badly worn.
You do need to take things apart in a specific order, so if you don't know how, get a workshop manual and you'll have no problems. If you get stuck I can scan my manual and send it to you.
Good luck
Andrew
loeky
SILVER Star
thanks for the tip andew. i'm still on the lookout for a printed manual - thought i've got the massive pdf download for now.
after reading everything on here about steering upgrades/maintenance, i've decided to start with the bushings and then move to shocks, springs etc. [/hijack of thread]
best,
m.
after reading everything on here about steering upgrades/maintenance, i've decided to start with the bushings and then move to shocks, springs etc. [/hijack of thread]
best,
m.
SO WE DO OR DO NOT NEED THE Magic Lube for poly bushings? i am all confused now
soggy60 said:Go to your local swimming pool supply store.
Ask for "Magic Lube". A clear sticky silicone-teflon lube that water will not wash away.
Comes in large 'toothpaste tube' container.
Wear gloves (rubber surgens style), stuff isn't harmful, just really tough to 'wash off' yer hands . . .
better than KY jelly !
