24-12V converter and radio reception (1 Viewer)

[robmobile73]

I have a 24-12V converter that powers my radio. The voltage from the converter is lower than the normal 13.8V or so normal on a 12V vehicle while running. Modern car radios are designed to run on the normal 13.5V+ of a modern vehicle while running. With a battery operated radio reception drops off when voltage/batteries get low. With the voltage converter my voltage to the radio is less than 13V and my reception is terrible. Stations that play clearly in my other vehicles are mostly static in my LC.
Has anyone else had this problem? Any suggestions?

 

[roscoFJ73]

Modern car radios are designed to run on the normal 13.5V+ of a modern vehicle while running

All my car radios have worked fine on 12volts when the engine is off. Ive had them work ok until the battery is too flat to start the engine. Maybe its an antenna problem.

 

[ThatDude]

I have a 24-12V converter that powers my radio. The voltage from the converter is lower than the normal 13.8V or so normal on a 12V vehicle while running. Modern car radios are designed to run on the normal 13.5V+ of a modern vehicle while running. With a battery operated radio reception drops off when voltage/batteries get low. With the voltage converter my voltage to the radio is less than 13V and my reception is terrible. Stations that play clearly in my other vehicles are mostly static in my LC.
Has anyone else had this problem? Any suggestions?

Curious about your converter - do you have it hooked to the constant power circuit too so the clock retains time when the ignition is off? I’ve got a 24v truck too and was wondering if this would be a parasitic drain over time if the vehicle was parked up.

 

[robmobile73]

Curious about your converter - do you have it hooked to the constant power circuit too so the clock retains time when the ignition is off? I’ve got a 24v truck too and was wondering if this would be a parasitic drain over time if the vehicle was parked up.

No it is hardwired and yes it is a parasitic drain. I wanted to be able to listen to the radio whenever without having the key in. It's my truck sits for 10 days or so without me cranking it the battery will be run down. It is however a 40 amp converter. It runs the fan and AC compressor clutch on my climate control system which is aftermarket and 12 volt as well as the radio....... The memory power wire and regular power wire for the radio are twisted together. A better solution would perhaps be a very very small 12 volt regulating transistor powering only the memory wire all the time, and a relay triggered by the accessory first click of the ignition key and or an additional switch as well supplying power to the 40 amp converter. I didn't get that complex when I wired everything up. Radio powered off 12 volts between the two batteries is a no-go I killed one battery and one radio with that way when I first bought the truck.

 

[robmobile73]

All my car radios have worked fine on 12volts when the engine is off. Ive had them work ok until the battery is too flat to start the engine. Maybe its an antenna problem.

It's a new full size antenna no issues I know of. Maybe I should have bought the power boosted antenna?

 

[roscoFJ73]

I think car stereo shops can test the antenna reception.

 

[Earwigg]

You can get converters that will give you acc and constant power to suit a stereo.
I fed the acc side through the 4wd button radio stations stay saved a relay might be a nicer way to achieve the same thing.
The converter doesn't cause any issues with reception occasionally the USB charger does, not sure why.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

I had crappy reception with my last antenna, I just installed a new OEM antenna and the reception is better. I think my old antenna wire was loose/corroded at the base. I'd say the reception is about the same as our 80 series, we don't have a 'modern' car to compare, unless you consider a 95 modern, it is a stock 12V system though, with no converter.

 

[ThatDude]

No it is hardwired and yes it is a parasitic drain. I wanted to be able to listen to the radio whenever without having the key in. It's my truck sits for 10 days or so without me cranking it the battery will be run down. It is however a 40 amp converter. It runs the fan and AC compressor clutch on my climate control system which is aftermarket and 12 volt as well as the radio....... The memory power wire and regular power wire for the radio are twisted together. A better solution would perhaps be a very very small 12 volt regulating transistor powering only the memory wire all the time, and a relay triggered by the accessory first click of the ignition key and or an additional switch as well supplying power to the 40 amp converter. I didn't get that complex when I wired everything up. Radio powered off 12 volts between the two batteries is a no-go I killed one battery and one radio with that way when I first bought the truck.

Got it. I ran a charge equaliser (Redarc CE10) between the batteries so I can run the 12v Aircon etc without the batteries failing to equalise. Got a used one out of an old bus, works a dream. They’re not too pricey.

I only run voltage converters for smaller loads, and for temporary accessories I run it off the aux battery in the back that’s fed by a BCDC1220d. So far so good, but need to hook up a new head unit.

 

[daboheme]

You more than likely have a switch mode power supply (versus a linear PSU) which would elevate the noise levels of the environment. Either in terms of reception or actual noise on the power supply of the radio.