22re water pump. (1 Viewer)

[bcsteel]

so i was driving home this eve after supper at a friends place. about five minutes away. my girlfiriend noticed as we were pulling in to the driveway that the heat was not blowing, just cold air. then as we were parking steam everywhere from the hood. shut er down, the temp stayed the same. water pump... any away to check if the head or head gasket is done. i figure since the gauge is registering normal all should be well??? any advice?

Matt

 

[KLF]

Best way to check the head gasket is with a leak down test.

But it sounds to me like you caught it in time.

Other advice: get an OEM water pump. Change the thermostat while you're there, get the 2-stage one. If you haven't replaced the belts in awhile, do those too. Use Toyota red coolant, mixed 50/50 with DISTILLED water.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Good advice from KLF. Just one additional note of caution. If you don't currently have the Toyota Red and decide to change to it then flush, flush and then flush the system some more. In fact, flush the sytem without the thermostat in as well.

Quite a few guys on the 80 forum have gone from green to red and really plugged up their radiators because they didn't get all the green out first. I can't recall if anyone has gotten to the bottom of the exact reaction that is taking place but whatever it is it precipitates solids.

 

[pilot]

Agree on the leakdown test.

Hey KLF. Why use the red coolant. (just wondering) I use the Green stuff on my 22RE ( I figured they didn't have the red stuff back in the 80's) is there that much of a difference? My wifes Sequoia called for the Red when I put a new timing belt and water pump on hers. I know it is a Toyota thing. If the older engines were calling for the Green, would it be bad to run the Red? DO they mix? I am pulling out my stupid card on this one... Educate me if you have the time. THanks in advance.

 

[bcsteel]

water pump

just getting my parts together to go out and do the job and found that toyota wants 150.00 vs napa which is 57.00. price isn't normally that much of an issue for me but i plan on doing the 3L diesel conversion later this year sometime. Is toyota that much better, will i regret the napa pump? The truck will still be driven in the bush... up to the day of the swap.

 

[pilot]

I have had Great luck with my Lifetime Warranty one from Advance auto parts. BUT, I ALWAYS carry a spare water pump and belts.
I have about 12k since the swap was done, and I continuously rev her up past 7k with no issues. Time will tell, as it always does.

Comparing the old one (toyota) with the new one (advance auto parts) they are IDENTICAL from my comparisons.

 

[KLF]

( I figured they didn't have the red stuff back in the 80's)

They most certainly did have the red coolant back in the 80's. It's what came in these trucks from the factory.

As I understand it, the red is more suited to the interfaces where aluminum parts contact cast iron parts, as in the head and timing covers. It is also supposed to be a better lubricant for the water pump bearing.

According to a good friend that used to do a LOT of HG's when he worked as a tech at a Toyota dealership, he saw lots of erosion of the gaskets on the engines that used the green stuff.

 

[pilot]

WOW::::::::::::::: THat is good to know. So basically, FLush the hell out of the engine, and add the Red stuff... THanks for the knowledge.

 

[bcsteel]

oh good god

so its been educational...got everything out and was ready to pull the water pump but couldn't really see where it was leaking from now that i had a real good view or better view any way. starting looking else where and found that i had actually blown a heater hose and the way it sprayed was pretty much in the area of the water pump, doh. so okay i put everything back together and in the process broke a stud when i was refastening the fan. must have been pretty weak cause i didn't put that much on it. got three on there and decided to run the truck and see where i was at. will revisit the broken stud in the morning. so i fired i up and it runs good but the idle won't kick down now??? in fact it climbs up to around 2600 rpm the trucks ws warm at this point. i give it a shot of fuel and it returns to 2000 or so, wtf. thinking maybe there is moisture somewhere in a sensor that was sprayed? any advice.

 

[bcsteel]

went out and tickered. took the cap off the rad thought maybe there was air in there and the idle settled. then started climbing again...repeat and same results.

 

[bcsteel]

heater line air locked. truck is fixed and running fine. thanks for all your suggestions