22R 1980 SR5 Alternator Need help now!

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My surf bud is coming over in an hour an I've got to fix his 22R. It was just rebuilt a year ago and they dropped in a Kragen alternator and an Optima red top from Costco. To make a long story short, he said that the alternator is showing 21 volts on the gauge! It has difficulty starting and he thinks that a battery cell might be toast. I'm going to pull the alternator and have it bench tested. The manuals are packed up as he just moved from Long Beach back to NorCal, but he has his Kragen and Costco receipts. I couldn't find any info on the truck threads so I'm hoping a 22R guru can help. I have a lot of experience with the 20R, but I've never messed with a 22R.

Questions:

Most alternators are mounted on top, but I think that the 22R unit is mounted out of the way and hoses might have to be removed. The only pic I could find was on a 1985 SR5 in a nonrelated thread. What is the typical procedure before I pull this apart? Any quick tricks?

Is the voltage regulator internal to the regulator as I suspect or is it a remotely placed block? I suspect it's in the alternator unit. Any facts on this one?

The unit should be putting out 14.2v and I suspect that 21v would overheat and kill a cell or two in the Optima. We may have to replace the battery and will certainly have it tested. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Pic of his 1980 SR5
Pic of the 1985 22R from a Mud thread
 

Gumby

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According to my AllData for an 82, (as far as it goes back), Toyota says alternator output should be 13.8 to 14.8 at 77 degrees F. You can full feild the alternator by inserting a probe into the hole just under the wires and grounding the tab in there. The voltage should increase to 18V+

It sounds like the regulator is shot. It's internal, so replace the alternator.

It does not have a procedure, but the labor time is .8. It can't be too hard

Optimas don't like overcharging.
 
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Thanks Gumby. My suspicious are confirmed by your assessment. Thanks for posting the spec parameters as I can use that when the sales droids put it on the bench. :D Actually, the guys at the local Kragen actually seem to have their act together. Thanks as always. You've gotta love IH8Mud!
 

pappy

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I learned long ago that OEM is the only alternator worth using. After dealing with too much aftermarket junk I just visit CDan and never worry about it again. I seem to recall my 1982 was externally regulated, but I'm not sure. The alternator was located on the bottom drivers side and came out from the top [vs. my 85 that has to come out the bottom].
 

Gumby

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According to my CLymer manual, 75-84 IS an external regulator. Mounted on the fenderwell near the coil. 85 on is integral. Changing the alternator will result in the same problem. Replace the regulator.

Sorry about the previous mis-information.
 
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No sweat. We pulled the alternator, had it tested and it ranges from 13.8 low to 15.2 high, with an average of 14.4

I noticed as I pulled the alternator out, that there is a voltage regulator on the fenderwell, 5 pin style. Kragen offers both 5 and 6 pin styles. We need the part today, so Kragen will have to fly for this job.

The less than 1 year old Optima Redtop is toast. It should be showing ~720 CCA IIRC, but the Kragen guy tested it and it's producing 228 CCA. :doh: TIme for a new battery.

Thanks again!
 

NorCalDoug

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White Shark said:
...The less than 1 year old Optima Redtop is toast. It should be showing ~720 CCA IIRC, but the Kragen guy tested it and it's producing 228 CCA. :doh: TIme for a new battery...
Time for a quick hassle-free trip to Costco for a free replacement? ;)
 
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