227 Degrees, 7 Minutes From Start w /Heater Blasting

flintknapper

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Clearly, I need more shiny tools. Cap is new oem, replaced 2-3 years back. Chances pressure testing will blow a bigger hole in the radiator, or some heater hose I couldn't reach when I swapped things out? I mean, better it blows in the driveway, but still...

Very little chance. You'll only be applying 13-15 psi.

Pressure Test01.jpg

Pressure Test02.jpg
 
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Replace the leaking radiator. Your cooling system will never operate properly without being able to hold pressure.

You're letting perfect be the enemy of good.

A new radiator will be fine with a flush. It's the water pump you have to worry about with flushing. Better yet, order a radiator and Aisin water pump from RockAuto, and do two cycles of Prestone flush + distilled water in the week it takes to arrive.
 

jaymar

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So, I have a theory. The thermostat was mentioned above, and that may be correct. Here’s my theory, perhaps someone more familiar with a detailed anatomy of the engine compartment can confirm or deny…

The temperature sensor is on the engine block, so it’s not going to give me the temperature of the plumbing that is opened up only after the thermostat opens up, correct?

and I’m guessing that the source of the hot air coming out of the vents when the heater is turned on is not the block but the section that is opened up only after the thermostat opens, is that also correct?

I come up with this because it would explain why the temperature could be so high (thermostat not opening as fast as it should) with zero hot air (only ambient-temp air) coming out of the vents When the heater was on full blast. Once it opened up, the hot air came with it. Doesn’t explain the temperature immediately going up again though, Unless the thermostat is just completely screwed and random.

Anyway that’s next on the replacement list. Will report back.
 

flintknapper

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So, I have a theory. The thermostat was mentioned above, and that may be correct. Here’s my theory, perhaps someone more familiar with a detailed anatomy of the engine compartment can confirm or deny…

The temperature sensor is on the engine block, so it’s not going to give me the temperature of the plumbing that is opened up only after the thermostat opens up, correct?

and I’m guessing that the source of the hot air coming out of the vents when the heater is turned on is not the block but the section that is opened up only after the thermostat opens, is that also correct?

I come up with this because it would explain why the temperature could be so high (thermostat not opening as fast as it should) with zero hot air (only ambient-temp air) coming out of the vents When the heater was on full blast. Once it opened up, the hot air came with it. Doesn’t explain the temperature immediately going up again though, Unless the thermostat is just completely screwed and random.

Anyway that’s next on the replacement list. Will report back.

Tstat replacement is easy. If most of your time is spent in SoCal.....I'd throw a MotoRad Fail-Safe 170°F thermostat in it and see what happens. If that doesn't cure your problem....then testing for a slight head gasket leak might be appropriate.
 

Howard705

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Very little chance. You'll only be applying 13-15 psi.

View attachment 2740629
View attachment 2740630
I've maxed these to 30 on hundreds of vehicles- no patience to find the leaks. Works fine- engine cold not running anyway. Anything seeping was a leak anyway. This is my preferred way to find a HG leak. Will need to repair all external leaks though first- like that rad. HG- pull plugs-pump up max- watch. If you can see the needle moving look everywhere externally and on ground. If no visible movement- come back 5 minutes later- see if it has moved (like minute hand on a clock) If not keep coming back (may have to add more pumps if it gradually drops with no visible leaks. After an hour or so(without any on ground) crank motor a few revolutions with starter- any leaked into cylinders will blow out plug holes.
 

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