2019 Headlight cracked (1 Viewer)

[bdelaporte]

I recently hit a bird while driving down the road. I got out and checked the impact area which was right at hood level on the passenger side of the grill. At the time I didn’t see any damage. A few days later I notice condensation in my headlight. Upon a closer look i saw a hairline crack along the top of the headlight assembly.

The local dealership said that cannot replace just the headlight lense, and that an new assembly for a 2019 LC was $2100 plus installation. A google search didn’t provide much relief on a replacement cover except for a set from China ($200) that take 6-8 weeks for shipping.

I am thinking of parking it in the garage with a shop heater on it. Then drilling a hole in the top of the assembly and then running a hair-dryer to dry out the condensation before trying to seal up the light again before going the replacement route. Any thoughts?

Does anyone know of a good source for a replacement lense or are these meant to only be replaced with a sealed unit? It looks like 2015+ assembly‘s will work, so maybe I can source a used part from a wrecked LC?

HAs anyone replaced one? Is this something that is fairly easy to do (I assume you have to pull the grill and lower portion of the fender to access), or should it be done by a body shop?

TIA

 

[Weedhopper]

Check your comprehensive insurance. The deductible has to be a lot less than the total bill outright.

 

[bdelaporte]

Check your comprehensive insurance. The deductible has to be a lot less than the total bill outright.

Definitely an option on the insurance. It’s only $250, but I was hoping to avoid going the insurance route. If it turns out thats the best option, its available.. Thx

 

[Sandroad]

Well, first of all, don't rely on your local dealer to give you a good deal! That part number (81140-60K62) for the right headlamp assembly can be had at Toyota dealers with an on-line parts business for $1177. So your dealer was going make about $1000 extra profit. Maybe there is more to it than I found with a simple search, but it looked correct to me. Even though it's still horrible expensive, I would go with a new one because it seems unlikely you can get a good and permanent seal on the cracked one, given the stresses on headlights. Checked for used too?

 

[bdelaporte]

Well, first of all, don't rely on your local dealer to give you a good deal! That part number (81140-60K62) for the right headlamp assembly can be had at Toyota dealers with an on-line parts business for $1177. So your dealer was going make about $1000 extra profit. Maybe there is more to it than I found with a simple search, but it looked correct to me. Even though it's still horrible expensive, I would go with a new one because it seems unlikely you can get a good and permanent seal on the cracked one, given the stresses on headlights. Checked for used too?

I saw some used on ebay for decent prices, but I dont really want to get one only to see that its scratched up or not in the same condition as the rest of the truck. I saw a couple dealers online with the price you quoted. My dealer did me right on the sale, and there is free maintenance for the entire warranty period, but making an extra grand on a part isn’t cool.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Www.partsouq.com enter your VIN and it’ll give you the part you need.

 

[bdelaporte]

Www.partsouq.com enter your VIN and it’ll give you the part you need.

Thanks

 

[25LGT]

I am thinking of parking it in the garage with a shop heater on it. Then drilling a hole in the top of the assembly and then running a hair-dryer to dry out the condensation before trying to seal up the light again before going the replacement route. Any thoughts?

How long is the crack? I wouldn't drill a hole, should be able to take out a few bulbs to air out the headlight.

Is the crack on the black plastic? I think that's abs plastic. Might be worth a shot to plastic weld using the correct adhesive/glue/jbweld. If it's on the clear plastic, use 3M clear bra. .

 

[bdelaporte]

How long is the crack? I wouldn't drill a hole, should be able to take out a few bulbs to air out the headlight.

Is the crack on the black plastic? I think that's abs plastic. Might be worth a shot to plastic weld using the correct adhesive/glue/jbweld. If it's on the clear plastic, use 3M clear bra. .

The crack is along the top, about an inch long In the clear area. I actually had the entire front end wrapped in the 3M, and the crack is right along the top of the wrap. I honestly didn’t realize that the bulbs come out. I figured it was all one piece.

 

[bloc]

They don’t come out on 2016+, with the switch to LED high and low beams from the factory.

And you do not want Chinese lenses. On top of how difficult it can be to get a good seal for any lens, you’ll be adding inevitable quality problems like subpar UV coatings and mold shape.

Since it hasn’t been answered directly, these headlights are actually pretty easy to swap. I helped a friend change one on his LX and it took about 45 minutes. You’ll have to remove the black plastic shield over the core support and loosen the hardware and tabs to slide the grille out. The front camera connector can be a pain. Then some plastic push rivets along the top edge of the bumper, some hardware along the front edge of the wheel wells, plastic skid plate extensions to the bumper bottom edge, and some more hardware along the bottom edge. Clamp the headlamp sprayer hose so it doesn’t drain the tank and disconnect it in the center, then work the lever on the connector for the fog lamps and parking sensors, on the drivers side of the AC condenser coil. Then you separate the wheel well sides from these S-shaped plastic body clamps and peel the sides away.. there are catches and tabs in the seam going from the headlight end to the wheel well. Pulling from the wheel well side will progressively snap them out. Get both sides disconnected and have a helper grab the other side and the skin will slide right off.

Once the bumper skin is out of the way the headlight hardware is easy to get to. One tricky spot is under the front end of the rubber gasket along the side of the engine bay.. just pull it up some and you’ll see the hidden 10mm bolt.

So you’ll bolt it in, put the skin back on and make sure everything is connected, pay attention to the S-shaped tabs at the wheel well edge. Then find a flat area at night to aim it similarly to your existing good lamp and you will be all set.

I know that looks like a lot but it’s really not bad.. t30 torx and 10&12mm sockets are all you need.

 

[25LGT]

They don’t come out on 2016+, with the switch to LED high and low beams from the factory.

And you do not want Chinese lenses. On top of how difficult it can be to get a good seal for any lens, you’ll be adding inevitable quality problems like subpar UV coatings and mold shape.

I see. I thought the high/low were HID.

Are the side market cavity open to the whole headlight? I see some holes in the eBay picture below.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/pDoAAOSwMghe6Ru3/s-l400.jpg

 

[bdelaporte]

They don’t come out on 2016+, with the switch to LED high and low beams from the factory.

And you do not want Chinese lenses. On top of how difficult it can be to get a good seal for any lens, you’ll be adding inevitable quality problems like subpar UV coatings and mold shape.

Thanks, that’s what I thought. I appreciate the info.

 

[bdelaporte]

I see. I thought the high/low were HID.

Are the side market cavity open to the whole headlight? I see some holes in the eBay picture below.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/pDoAAOSwMghe6Ru3/s-l400.jpg

It looks like the white assembly is open.

 

[bdelaporte]

The crack is really small. I can’t even flex the plastic, but it’s enough for water to get inside.

 

[bloc]

Thanks, that’s what I thought. I appreciate the info.

No problem. See my edit up there for the procedure to swap housings.

It does look like the side marker lamp comes out leaving a hole but I’d think you will need more air flow than that to dehumidify it

 

[bdelaporte]

They don’t come out on 2016+, with the switch to LED high and low beams from the factory.

And you do not want Chinese lenses. On top of how difficult it can be to get a good seal for any lens, you’ll be adding inevitable quality problems like subpar UV coatings and mold shape.

Since it hasn’t been answered directly, these headlights are actually pretty easy to swap. I helped a friend change one on his LX and it took about 45 minutes. You’ll have to remove the black plastic shield over the core support and loosen the hardware and tabs to slide the grille out. The front camera connector can be a pain. Then some plastic push rivets along the top edge of the bumper, some hardware along the front edge of the wheel wells, plastic skid plate extensions to the bumper bottom edge, and some more hardware along the bottom edge. Clamp the headlamp sprayer hose so it doesn’t drain the tank and disconnect it in the center, then work the lever on the connector for the fog lamps and parking sensors, on the drivers side of the AC condenser coil. Then you separate the wheel well sides from these S-shaped plastic body clamps and peel the sides away.. there are catches and tabs in the seam going from the headlight end to the wheel well. Pulling from the wheel well side will progressively snap them out. Get both sides disconnected and have a helper grab the other side and the skin will slide right off.

Once the bumper skin is out of the way the headlight hardware is easy to get to. One tricky spot is under the front end of the rubber gasket along the side of the engine bay.. just pull it up some and you’ll see the hidden 10mm bolt.

So you’ll bolt it in, put the skin back on and make sure everything is connected, pay attention to the S-shaped tabs at the wheel well edge. Then find a flat area at night to aim it similarly to your existing good lamp and you will be all set.

I know that looks like a lot but it’s really not bad.. t30 torx and 10&12mm sockets are all you need.

Thanks for the details. I appreciate your giving me an idea of the work involved. Sounds very doable.

 

[luke27617]

I would remove the headlight, leave it face down at home and let it dry out (should be nice a clear within a day without side marker and turn signal bulb. You can try attached in the garage as well (with the two bulbs removed) but would put a heater directed at the headlight. In current weather it may take days to dry out. When is all nice and dry, I would put clear coat touch up paint over the crack. It should seal the crack nicely and I would leave as is unless you want to go through insurance or pay out of packet $1000. I have not tried this before but windshield crack repair kit which comes with glass filler may work as well.

 

[gaijin]

The crack is really small. I can’t even flex the plastic, but it’s enough for water to get inside.

View attachment 2577128

That's not just a little condensation, that's a lot of water on the inside of that housing.

Two thoughts:

- Judging by the amount of water, I would not be surprised if you eventually find another crack or two somewhere else on the housing

- Even if you somehow manage to evaporate the water out of the housing, it's going to leave a lot of residue on the inner surfaces and the light lenses

If it were me, I'd pursue an insurance replacement.

HTH

 

[bloc]

Thanks for the details. I appreciate your giving me an idea of the work involved. Sounds very doable.

Any time.

A couple more details I just thought of.. your 16+ has a chrome trim piece from the grille across the headlight. I haven’t dealt with those before but it would be an additional step. It likely snaps off with some plastic trim tools but you’d want to research that.

Also the mounting tabs for the headlights can crack over time if you overtorque the hardware. They are small M6 bolts through simple holes in the plastic and don’t deal well with the extra force over a decade time frame. I’d get an in-lb torque wrench and look up the spec to do it right.

 

[luke27617]

That's not just a little condensation, that's a lot of water on the inside of that housing.

Two thoughts:

- Judging by the amount of water, I would not be surprised if you eventually find another crack or two somewhere else on the housing

- Even if you somehow manage to evaporate the water out of the housing, it's going to leave a lot of residue on the inner surfaces and the light lenses

If it were me, I'd pursue an insurance replacement.

HTH

Agree that there may be another crack so removing the headlight for drying would be ideal as it can be properly inspected.

To avoid water spots. I had a similar problem before and I have put inside distilled water to wash off impurities. The distilled water left no spots inside and dried out perfectly.