So.... a fully built 2016 or a stock 2019 or 2020 ? 2016 with 55k miles 2020 with 45k miles ? ... is the 2018+ worth it vs a ready to go rig? Thank you for the info in advance
2016 vs 2018 plus (1 Viewer)
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CharlieS
GOLD Star
What do you plan to use it for?
I'll assume purchase prices are in the same ballpark.
Family hauling on road use, I'd buy the newest one with the best service history and condition.
Offroad use, a built one could be appealing, especially if done right, with the right vendor products. You typically pay a lot less for aftermarket items on a used vehicle purchase than you would retail, and dodge labor costs.
On the other hand, I enjoy building to my personal specs. If you lean this way, it may make the built rig less appealing. Knowing the build makes field servicing a lot simpler.
I'll assume purchase prices are in the same ballpark.
Family hauling on road use, I'd buy the newest one with the best service history and condition.
Offroad use, a built one could be appealing, especially if done right, with the right vendor products. You typically pay a lot less for aftermarket items on a used vehicle purchase than you would retail, and dodge labor costs.
On the other hand, I enjoy building to my personal specs. If you lean this way, it may make the built rig less appealing. Knowing the build makes field servicing a lot simpler.
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It will be my daily and camping/expedition rig, I have a dedicated setup for the hard core stuff, the build is quality, bumpers, winch, underarmor, bp51, uca, drawr system etc, I rather nit get into a build up again lol but if the newer ones are that much "better ".... tgan
I assume you’re talking about LC? (IF LX, then disregard below.). Only you can say if the improvements are worth it.
For LC:
2020+: new front differential design…maybe better/stronger differential carrier??
2018+: KDSS bolt change, automatically power-folding outside mirrors, late-2018s have new radiator design, late-2018s have capacitive touch screen on center display, powered lift gate, non-mandatory rear entertainment, newer transmission software (flashable on 2016-2017), and new key (very cool) design.
2016+ LC also gains bigger front brakes, 8-speed auto, semi-aniline leather of the LX, and has better buttons arrangement than prior years.
For LC:
2020+: new front differential design…maybe better/stronger differential carrier??
2018+: KDSS bolt change, automatically power-folding outside mirrors, late-2018s have new radiator design, late-2018s have capacitive touch screen on center display, powered lift gate, non-mandatory rear entertainment, newer transmission software (flashable on 2016-2017), and new key (very cool) design.
2016+ LC also gains bigger front brakes, 8-speed auto, semi-aniline leather of the LX, and has better buttons arrangement than prior years.
I like my late '18, it's my DD. Will be very lightly built, not going to be taking it rock crawling. When I bought it last year it was one of the lowest mileage, lowest priced ones, which is one of the main reasons I bought it. Last winter the used car prices were still totally insane.
bloc
SILVER Star
The only thing I consider must-have from 18 is the radiator, and the necessity won’t come up for ~100k miles. Also the part is only $400 when it comes time.
KDSS screws are arguably worse depending on your region.
Power lift gate? Meh. And more stuff to break.
No more side curtain airbag cancel button (I think.)
I’m sure I am forgetting things.
KDSS screws are arguably worse depending on your region.
Power lift gate? Meh. And more stuff to break.
No more side curtain airbag cancel button (I think.)
I’m sure I am forgetting things.
If you like the build and parts used on the 2016 and it's as clean as the 2018 and indeed cheaper to purchase I'd probably lean that way if you know you'll end up building one anyways. There's only 10K miles difference between the two and aside from the better radiator design in the 2018 you would have most of the improvements that matter. Normally I would say to buy the newest one with the lowest miles but I can't deny a properly built rig for less as a valid option if that's what you seek.
Seems like this isn't your first rodeo with a fully built car. You're well aware of the impacts and compromises that it would have to daily drivability and efficiency. Just bringing it up as there's people new to this hobby that wind up building out a car, only to sell it as they realize it's now a more focused tool that has lost its day to day usability. Perhaps the 2016 example is one of those.
Between the 2016 and 2019, which is practically the same car, seems like the 2016 maybe a better value for you with goodies.
I would get the built one as it's being used for camping. Has low miles and has quality parts. It's nice not to do all that work.
The 2016+ (I'm not sure about the 2020) the front ring gear is too thick to add a front locker. That means you need to re-gear to add front and rear lockers. You can easily add just a rear locker without re-gearing.
The radiator on the 16 should be switched out around 100k for the newer improved one. You should to change the coolant and water pump at this point at this point. The whole job takes about 3 hours. The other years you should change coolant and pump anyways, and it is way easily to remove the rad when doing this, so no less work.
I think the newer heritage edition does not have the cooler in the center consol. Something I used daily.
The 2016+ (I'm not sure about the 2020) the front ring gear is too thick to add a front locker. That means you need to re-gear to add front and rear lockers. You can easily add just a rear locker without re-gearing.
The radiator on the 16 should be switched out around 100k for the newer improved one. You should to change the coolant and water pump at this point at this point. The whole job takes about 3 hours. The other years you should change coolant and pump anyways, and it is way easily to remove the rad when doing this, so no less work.
I think the newer heritage edition does not have the cooler in the center consol. Something I used daily.
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