That's dumb, they never going to cover it, ever.
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- Thread starter
- #23
Agreed. Second option time
I do full exchanges. But my transmission fluid gets some abuse when towing. With regearing my transmission temps regularly run 215F which is about 20F hotter than normal. I’ll hit 240-250F on mountain passes. I don’t think a partial fluid exchange would be sufficent in my case
Moby
GOLD Star
Toyota is not going to rebuild a transmission. They will replace. Take it to an a actual transmission shop. It can be hard to find a good one but worth it. I had my A440F rebuilt with upgraded clutches.
How would they ever know?
I know my sport fisher engines computers record this as well as the final drive commuter on my jeep. I'm not sure about the Toyota computers but many engines ECM's and final drive units record all this now. I've seen it in court where the module has recorded the engine was redlined in neutral.
So it would depend on what the computers are recording as I'm not that familiar with the Toyota computers for that year.
In any event it would be considered fraud. Not a good idea at all.
The problem I speculated based on my reading and discussing with different transmission shop and dedicated shops which replace transmission is that, it is difficult to say if a solenoid valve or valve body may fix the problem completely.
Hence they suggested always go for a reman transmission when in doubt as they get a warranty to swap it if its not working as expected.
I was lucky to get a used low miles transmission swap on my highlander and work without any issues. The shop warned me though that used low miles is always a coin toss, so do come with a 30 to 120 day warranty when installed by a certified mechanic and if they replaced the transmission pan/oil and filters with the installation. I though it was funny they ask for proof of new pan/filter/oil until I saw some youtube videos of mechanics install these older engines and transmissions without changing the oil/filters until they realized it later.
Sorry for long post, but I agree, get a second opinion with multiple transmission shops (Some charge free diagnostics) and if they can read some codes and give you an option of replacing smaller parts like solenoid valves or valve body itself based on the code they see.
If they say, rebuild for good price or 1 year or 10 year warranty. Just dont take that option at all. they always what you to get it rebuild but its a very bad idea.
If they say, rebuild for good price or 1 year or 10 year warranty. Just dont take that option at all. they always what you to get it rebuild but its a very bad idea.
I’ve got a buddy who is a Lexus/Toyota master tech. Said the drive shaft could use a bit of lube. Hoping that resolves the issue. No codes thrown. Fortunately the 200 isn’t as bad as the 100 when it comes to the need to lube the drive shaft.
Different situation than the OP except for the super hard shift. Imo if you’re towing and using premium synthetics (Redline, Amsoil, RP), 25K for the tranny, diffs and tcase should be fine. Fluids have looked Ok towing our 20’ Cobalt.
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Are you referring to the driveline clunk post for the 100s? I'm not convinced that's a drive shaft issue per se. The 'fix' results in a pressurization of the slip yoke. This removes slack in the system, masking the lash tolerance. But it's not a lubrication issue as much as a lash issue. I don't believe either 100 or 200 are in need of anything other that routine maintenance on the drive shafts.
Agreed. The 100 just required greater frequency Iirc. 200 zerks are more convenient too.
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