GM 2014 Silverado A/C problems (6 Viewers)

[Goodeye]

So my air conditioner quit. I do residential A/C and I’m cheap so I thought I would tackle the issue myself! Mistake! So after investigation I found rubber around clutch and compressor not engaging. So I thought bad clutch. Called olriellys and Napa. Neither could get just clutch. So ordered and installed new compressor. It was a major pain for someone that had never done it. When I removed lines from compressor no Freon came out. So I assumed I had a leak also. So when I got new compressor installed I filled system with nitrogen to 100psi. 30 minutes it did not loose any pressure. So I pulled vacuum. It looked good and held well. So on initial charge I was able to get in 7 ounces before starting compressor. System calls for 23 ounces. So with compressor running now open the low side and pressure shoots up to high to accept any Freon. Was only able to get it up to 10 ounces. Air was getting cold but not near as cold as should. I am charging with 30lb drum. Not cans. High side pressure running around 190. Low side around 35. Coil temp will get down to around 25 (blue numbers on gauge). But as soon as I open low side psi shoots up to nearly 100 which overcomes can pressure and will not take anymore Freon. I am assuming expansion valve is bad. But am also concerned because when I removed gauges there were lots of particles of trash in the port. So I guess I have two questions. Would expansion valve solve my issue? And how would I flush/clean the system. The last thing I want is to ruin my new compressor. Hope I’m on the right forum. I have copied and pasted this to my note pad in case I’m not. If someone could point me to the right forum.

Thanks.

 

[Goodeye]

Anyone out there?

 

[BILT4ME]

You seem to have an interesting take on things.

The "rubber around clutch and compressor not engaging". To my knowledge, there is no rubber on compressor clutches at all.

Residential and Automotive AC operate differently and use different pressures and concepts.

If there is particulate in the system, then it MUST be flushed. However, you should have done that BEFORE you installed a new compressor. You have probably junked your new compressor.

What Freon did you put in? R22? R134?

Did you put the freon in on the high pressure side or the low pressure side? As a liquid or as a gas? Yes both make a serious difference.

Per the GM Manuals, what are the pressures supposed to be?

Anytime I change a compressor, I will flush the system and install a new receiver/dryer as well as a new expansion valve. Also best to install new Schrader valves and new O-Rings everywhere.

You only test with vacuum. That is what evacuates the system. Pull to 28" HG and hole for 30 minutes with vacuum on it. Close the valve and confirm it holds the vacuum for another 30 minutes.

 

[Goodeye]

You seem to have an interesting take on things.

The "rubber around clutch and compressor not engaging". To my knowledge, there is no rubber on compressor clutches at all.

Residential and Automotive AC operate differently and use different pressures and concepts.

If there is particulate in the system, then it MUST be flushed. However, you should have done that BEFORE you installed a new compressor. You have probably junked your new compressor.

What Freon did you put in? R22? R134?

Did you put the freon in on the high pressure side or the low pressure side? As a liquid or as a gas? Yes both make a serious difference.

Per the GM Manuals, what are the pressures supposed to be?

Anytime I change a compressor, I will flush the system and install a new receiver/dryer as well as a new expansion valve. Also best to install new Schrader valves and new O-Rings everywhere.

You only test with vacuum. That is what evacuates the system. Pull to 28" HG and hole for 30 minutes with vacuum on it. Close the valve and confirm it holds the vacuum for another 30 minutes.

The whole outter ring on the clutch is rubber. I used 134. I made several mistakes on this job and very well could cost me more money than it would have if I’d just hired it done. I will order an expansion valve and dryer. How would I go about flushing? And do you think the expansion valve is the reason it won’t take Freon? I was charging as a liquid. I couldn’t find recommended pressures in the manual. But I do know I only got ten ounces in. Put it in the high side with compressor off. Was using low side while it was running. Everything thing you mentioned are normal procedures for residential. Not sure why I thought it wouldn’t apply in vehicles.

 

[BILT4ME]

The whole outter ring on the clutch is rubber. I used 134. I made several mistakes on this job and very well could cost me more money than it would have if I’d just hired it done. I will order an expansion valve and dryer. How would I go about flushing? And do you think the expansion valve is the reason it won’t take Freon? I was charging as a liquid. I couldn’t find recommended pressures in the manual. But I do know I only got ten ounces in. Put it in the high side with compressor off. Was using low side while it was running. Everything thing you mentioned are normal procedures for residential. Not sure why I thought it wouldn’t apply in vehicles.

View attachment 2417214

View attachment 2417217

I'm going to let @flintknapper submit his thoughts here.