2014 LX570 20x9.5 ET0 wheels (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
May 10, 2021
Threads
6
Messages
39
Location
Los Angeles
Long time lurker and finally took ownership of my first 200. Great info and I've been reading for years now. Question- I'm looking at a 20x9.5 ET 0 wheel. Will take the mudflaps out and would adjust AHC (as much as I don't want to) Would this work out? I do light trails and some occasional easy to mid technical.

I'm also swapping out my stock 285/50/20 tires to 285/60/20 Toyo Open Country AT3s. As I understood, I have to put in some 1.25 spacers to swing it away from the control arm? Does this sound correct?

Thank you so much for your input.
 
Doesn't sound right.

For your awareness, OEM wheels are high offset wheels @ 60mm (or 56mm for 2016+). Majority of the community runs offsets in the +25 to +50 range with larger aftermarket tires.

For several reasons including:
1) Scrub radius - impacts suspension geometry, and offset is correlated to overall tire diameter. A 286/60R20 (~33.5") wants about a 40mm offset optimally.
2) Fitment - with lower offset, there is more tire swing as it steers. Versus pivoting in place. Low offsets make it actually harder with clearance issues against the fender liner and body mount
3) Fender clearance - 0 offset is going to poke the tire dramatically, which will put the tire tread into the fender at max compression. May need to limit suspension travel, cut fenders, or body lift

There are individuals that run 0 offset for really aggressive fitments. That may be more trouble than it's worth for your suggested use and has compromises. For optimal performance and fitment, I would suggest an aftermarket wheel in the +25 to +35 range. Won't have an issue with the control arms at these offsets.

Still will need minor fender plastics massaging. You can find modification tips here
 
Doesn't sound right.

For your awareness, OEM wheels are high offset wheels @ 60mm (or 56mm for 2016+). Majority of the community runs offsets in the +25 to +50 range with larger aftermarket tires.

For several reasons including:
1) Scrub radius - impacts suspension geometry, and offset is correlated to overall tire diameter. A 286/60R20 (~33.5") wants about a 40mm offset optimally.
2) Fitment - with lower offset, there is more tire swing as it steers. Versus pivoting in place. Low offsets make it actually harder with clearance issues against the fender liner and body mount
3) Fender clearance - 0 offset is going to poke the tire dramatically, which will put the tire tread into the fender at max compression. May need to limit suspension travel, cut fenders, or body lift

There are individuals that run 0 offset for really aggressive fitments. That may be more trouble than it's worth for your suggested use and has compromises. For optimal performance and fitment, I would suggest an aftermarket wheel in the +25 to +35 range. Won't have an issue with the control arms at these offsets.

Still will need minor fender plastics massaging. You can find modification tips here
Thank you chief. My second/preferred option is 20x8.5 ET15-20 which is almost close to stock wheels with spacers. For now, really need to change my tires- looking at 285 60 20 AT3s with 1.25 spacers << would this set up cause me some headaches lol
 
You will need to remove or cut, or replace the front mudflaps, and heat and bend or cut the plastic along the bottom of the inner fenders. Can be done and not a huge headache.
 
You can fit a 275/65/20 KO2 totally stock which is 34x11" and likely the biggest tire you can do with no mods at all other than unscrewing the front mud flaps. I would not suggest a 0 offset wheel if you just want to upgrade the tires and are ok with sticking with OEM 20" wheels.
 
You can fit a 275/65/20 KO2 totally stock which is 34x11" and likely the biggest tire you can do with no mods at all other than unscrewing the front mud flaps. I would not suggest a 0 offset wheel if you just want to upgrade the tires and are ok with sticking with OEM 20" wheels.
Thank you sir.
 
You will need to remove or cut, or replace the front mudflaps, and heat and bend or cut the plastic along the bottom of the inner fenders. Can be done and not a huge headache.
Yes, front flaps is gone, depends on how it looks might take the rears off too hehe
 
You can fit a 275/65/20 KO2 totally stock which is 34x11" and likely the biggest tire you can do with no mods at all other than unscrewing the front mud flaps. I would not suggest a 0 offset wheel if you just want to upgrade the tires and are ok with sticking with OEM 20" wheels.
@mcgaskins do I still need spacers?
 
While clearance could work for a 34x11 tire without spacers... Speaking from a suspension geometry POV for a rather large 34" diameter tire, there's benefits to be had in running spacers or wheels that put net offset in the 35mm range. A corrected scrub radius will do some great things like tighter turning radius, better cornering traction, handling stability both in geometry and a slightly wider track width for the higher center of gravity. A wider track also moves the tires more flush with the body lines, making it a first point of contact for side obstacles. There's additional benefits to things like reducing steering kickback with obstacles and uneven terrain, or increasing durability of the steering rack particularly with larger tires, as forces are more isolated within the suspension upright.

A 1" spacer would put a stock 60mm wheel at the optimum geometry for 34s. The benefits may outweigh perceived drawbacks.
 
While clearance could work for a 34x11 tire without spacers... Speaking from a suspension geometry POV for a rather large 34" diameter tire, there's benefits to be had in running spacers or wheels that put net offset in the 35mm range. A corrected scrub radius will do some great things like tighter turning radius, better cornering traction, handling stability both in geometry and a slightly wider track width for the higher center of gravity. A wider track also moves the tires more flush with the body lines, making it a first point of contact for side obstacles. There's additional benefits to things like reducing steering kickback with obstacles and uneven terrain, or increasing durability of the steering rack particularly with larger tires, as forces are more isolated within the suspension upright.

A 1" spacer would put a stock 60mm wheel at the optimum geometry for 34s. The benefits may outweigh perceived drawbacks.
Hey Teck. Always learn a lot from you. My only concern with spacers would be adding a potentially catastrophic failure point.

We hear horror stories of wheels falling off after installing spacers… if installed properly and torqued down appropriately, is this even a negligible concern? Or is it a complete non-issue with no more chance of failing than your normal OEM wheel setup?
 
Hey Teck. Always learn a lot from you. My only concern with spacers would be adding a potentially catastrophic failure point.

We hear horror stories of wheels falling off after installing spacers… if installed properly and torqued down appropriately, is this even a negligible concern? Or is it a complete non-issue with no more chance of failing than your normal OEM wheel setup?

Negligible. No more than hearing stories of OEM studs shearing and wheels falling off - when improperly installed. As with all things, proper installation is the primary concern. It is an additional component. When installed correctly, the risk should be sufficiently mitigated.

Key is to torque again 50 or so miles after initial installation. Apply Loctite blue.

Just like installing aftermarket aluminum wheels, that second round of torqueing is super important as things take a set. And because the spacer lugs are not as easily accessible, blue Loctite ensures they don't back-out.

Anecdotally, I can't recall an instance of failure on these boards. I can recall at least 2 where stock wheels (without spacers) have fallen off because of improper torqueing. I run 1" spacers with 35s, towing 15k lbs net rig weight. The pros outweigh the cons in my setup too, because without proper geometry, towing large loads magnifies poor handling geometry with less stable steering. Details that help my modified rig perform like stock.
 
Hey Teck. Always learn a lot from you. My only concern with spacers would be adding a potentially catastrophic failure point.

We hear horror stories of wheels falling off after installing spacers… if installed properly and torqued down appropriately, is this even a negligible concern? Or is it a complete non-issue with no more chance of failing than your normal OEM wheel setup?

I put on wheel spacers on my truck at less than 500 miles of owning it. 40k miles later I’ve never even had to re-torque one. I don’t know why this is such an issue for people.
 
Negligible. No more than hearing stories of OEM studs shearing and wheels falling off - when improperly installed. As with all things, proper installation is the primary concern. It is an additional component. When installed correctly, the risk should be sufficiently mitigated.

Key is to torque again 50 or so miles after initial installation. Apply Loctite blue.

Just like installing aftermarket aluminum wheels, that second round of torqueing is super important as things take a set. And because the spacer lugs are not as easily accessible, blue Loctite ensures they don't back-out.

Anecdotally, I can't recall an instance of failure on these boards. I can recall at least 2 where stock wheels (without spacers) have fallen off because of improper torqueing. I run 1" spacers with 35s, towing 15k lbs net rig weight. The pros outweigh the cons in my setup too, because without proper geometry, towing large loads magnifies poor handling geometry with less stable steering. Details that help my modified rig perform like stock.
...or follow manufacturer instructions. Spidertrax don't require retorque and use red loctite (supplied for initial install).
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom