2013 LX570 Lowbeam replacement

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Aug 6, 2015
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Charlotte, NC
Sorry guys, I've read a few threads and still somewhat confused. Haven't done much on my wife's 2013 LX570 200series, I'm more in tune with my 100 series.

I've got a low beam out, was reading threads on replacements and I've gotten pretty confused.

Can I swap out what I presume to be a stock H11 bulb with a Xenon D4s or does that require harness/ballast modification?
 
Sorry guys, I've read a few threads and still somewhat confused. Haven't done much on my wife's 2013 LX570 200series, I'm more in tune with my 100 series.

I've got a low beam out, was reading threads on replacements and I've gotten pretty confused.

Can I swap out what I presume to be a stock H11 bulb with a Xenon D4s or does that require harness/ballast modification?
Your wife's 2013 lx570 low beam uses an HID bulb. It is a D4S bulb that you will replace it with.
 
Thank you. I was struggling here.
They are a real pain to get out. The round plastic seals can be tough to remove, and there's limited visibility inside the housing. You need to release a metal clip on each side of the bulb (pretty standard, just hard to access). Drivers side will require battery removal. Best to do both at the same time, in my opinion.
 
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I had not issues replacing mine. Not as easy as a run of the mill halogen bulb in a econobox but no pain either. Watch some pics/video to get the "topography" of the space and go for it.
 
I just did this swap today. Bought the Osram Nightbreaker bulbs.

It's one of those jobs where you just take your time and don't force anything. A mirror on a wand helps see how those bulbs come out. You gently twist off the balast (about 1/4 turn, comes right off), but the bulb is held in by a silver spring that you push forward, then together, then out. You can do one side of that spring at a time. The mirror really helps to make sure you get it back in.

Circles show the springs. Push in, then towards the center, then it'll hinge out.

Arrow shows the electrical silver tab alignment. Just put in the bulb (without touching the glass), wiggle it a bit, rotate, it'll "fall" into place. Then put the springs back and check your work with the mirror.

lx light - 1.jpeg
 
Also when you go to twist the ballast back onto the rear of the headlamp housing, clean the o-ring and mating surfaces of sand and debris before install, then make sure you press the ballast all the way in before rotating. It's pretty easy to have one or two of the tabs not seated causing a leak and for water to get in to the housing.

It also helps to really keep track of the position of the ballast when it was untwisted and pulled out. If it's clocked very far either direction the tabs don't like to line up and it can be a challenge to get the o-ring to full depth before turning to lock it in.
 
I used some plumbers silicone grease on those housing o-rings. Went back in lickitey split.
 
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Thank you everyone! Successfully swapped the bulbs for OSRAM nightbreakers. Passenger side was straightforward, maybe 10 minutes. Driver side took about 25 minutes, was a fair bit trickier, I think mostly angles on non-dominant hand and just less space in general. Now to figure out the HID conversion for my 100 series lol.
 
Thank you everyone! Successfully swapped the bulbs for OSRAM nightbreakers. Passenger side was straightforward, maybe 10 minutes. Driver side took about 25 minutes, was a fair bit trickier, I think mostly angles on non-dominant hand and just less space in general. Now to figure out the HID conversion for my 100 series lol.
How do you find the Nightbreakers vis-a-vis the stock ones?
 
Me too. I literally checked to see if my headlights were on last week before upgrading. Osrams made a big difference, but my bulbs might have been 11 years old as far as I know.
 

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