2011 OEM audio system quality...is it really this mediocre? (1 Viewer)

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How many of you are unimpressed with the sound system in your stock 200 series L.C, and had better results with a complete aftermarket install?
So recap: Awhile back, I posted a thread about having issues with my speakers going out. Found out after a trip to the dealership, it was a loose wire issue. Once that was fixed, my dash speakers started working. Also found out in that same trip, that all of my door speakers, tweeters and sub, had been removed. Fast forward to last Friday. I ended up scoring some 2ohm JBL speakers for the front and rear doors from Best Buy for around $125 out the door. After finally installing all the speakers this week. I'm standing here scratching my head wondering, if this is as good as the stock sound quality is? Honestly the sound system that was in my 2016 4Runner sounded far more superior than whats getting pumped out right now. I know my amp is running fine, the service tech did a diagnostic check on it when he was running thru everything. The front door speakers are really muffled, and whisper quiet. I've messed around with the sound settings to bring out the best sound quality, but it's not helping. Part of me wants to pull the plug on some front & rear tweeters, and a sub, get it all up and running and hope that improves the sound. The other half of me is saying, just return the speakers, and take my cruiser to a car audio shop, and have a completely new sound system & amp installed.

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Any idea why/when the OEM speakers were removed? Were the wires to the speakers just left hanging? Are you sure the amp's output is ok? The muffled, whisper-quiet sound from the front door speakers seems like a clue that all is not well with the amp input, amp output, or the wiring. It looks like you replaced the door speaker with coaxial drivers. I'm not sure how that would affect the sound, since the original system had separate tweeters. Someone with more experience with the '11 system will know more.

An audio shop will need to have someone experienced with the kind of integrated system we have in the LC in order to get new equipment installed.

If you feed it a high quality, non-compressed signal and everything is working properly, the JBL system is much better than what you are experiencing. The sound is not muffled or whisper quiet from a speaker.
 
I absolutely love the stock stereo in my 2013. More volume than I’ll ever need, plenty of bass, etc.

I’d consider pricing out the stock speakers and returning to stock configuration. No one that has listened to mine thinks it is anything other than great.. and you are sure to have less issues down the road than when a shop comes in and adds wiring all over the place.
 
The door speakers are not full range, so you will never get anything but a “muffled” sound out of them. Even though JBL lists the speakers as 2.3 ohm, they probably are not as efficient as the factory speakers. They probably would sound better than factory given enough power, but without that power, they probably sound lacking. JBL specs the aftermarket speaker at 94 db sensitivity.. which is pretty high, but none of those specs may matter without more data on the testing conditions. (Impedance and Sensitivity are both moving targets based on freq, so if those ratings are at a freq the speaker isn’t even trying to play, then it’s absolutely useless). Unless you want to spend a crap ton having someone attempt to replace your DSP amp, I second the idea of trying to find factory door speaker and sub. The system is tuned with the assumption that the sub is there, this probably the biggest reason it sounds weak. You could probably skip finding factory rear door speakers.
 
Ouch. I priced factory front door speakers for my 13 and they are $290 each

I’d suggest using car-part.com to see who might have a 200-series cruiser and contact them for a package deal for what you need. Often things like factory speakers go with the rest of the body to the crusher..
 
Ok…the JBL system on the LC is a custom designed system made for ONLY the factory speakers, not aftermarket.

Not sure about 2011, but i think that it is the same as 2019.

Dash speakers (pointing up to windshield): 3.5“ woofer X 3 locations.

Side A-pillar: 1” tweeters.

FRONT lower door: 6x9 mid-bass speakers.

REAR upper door: 1” tweeters (maybe 0.75).

REAR lower door: 6.5” midrange speakers.

Cargo: subwoofer and two 3.5” midrange woofers (for surround effect).

What does this mean? JBL uses “Distributed Subwoofer System” (DSS). DSS uses bass from the cargo subwoofer AND the two front door mid-bass speakers to provide bass to the whole cabin.

So, those front lower door speakers are for BASS, not vocals. If you’re using the stock JBL amp, then that location is only getting mid-bass signals…thus, “muffled” sound that you’re getting from aftermarket speakers.

Vocals and highs ALL come from the dash and A-pillar speakers.

If you’re planning on sticking with stock amp and headunit, then buy appropriate factory speakers … Otherwise you have to gut the whole system and install a full aftermarket system.
 
Any idea why/when the OEM speakers were removed? Were the wires to the speakers just left hanging? Are you sure the amp's output is ok?
-I was told that the amp checked out fine when everything was inspected. I guess I can always get a 2nd opinion.
-I don't know why the stock setup was removed. More than likely the PO had another setup in it, and when he decided to sell, he removed it all of his aftermarket audio and just left it as it.
- Yes, the speaker wires were just left hanging with tape around them. All connecters were clipped off, and in some areas, wire was cut, and different speaker wire was added.
 
I absolutely love the stock stereo in my 2013. More volume than I’ll ever need, plenty of bass, etc.

I’d consider pricing out the stock speakers and returning to stock configuration. No one that has listened to mine thinks it is anything other than great.. and you are sure to have less issues down the road than when a shop comes in and adds wiring all over the place.
I just priced out stock speakers on my lunch break, and it's pretty spendy. $270 for 1 OEM 6x9 door speaker, $520 for a OEM sub. I honestly think at that price range, I'm going to go get a quote from an audio guy, Eric Sargent the GM from the local Toyota dealership recommended to me.
 
Ok…the JBL system on the LC is a custom designed system made for ONLY the factory speakers, not aftermarket.

Not sure about 2011, but i think that it is the same as 2019.

Dash speakers (pointing up to windshield): 3.5“ woofer X 3 locations.

Side A-pillar: 1” tweeters.

FRONT lower door: 6x9 mid-bass speakers.

REAR upper door: 1” tweeters (maybe 0.75).

REAR lower door: 6.5” midrange speakers.

Cargo: subwoofer and two 3.5” midrange woofers (for surround effect).

What does this mean? JBL uses “Distributed Subwoofer System” (DSS). DSS uses bass from the cargo subwoofer AND the two front door mid-bass speakers to provide bass to the whole cabin.

So, those front lower door speakers are for BASS, not vocals. If you’re using the stock JBL amp, then that location is only getting mid-bass signals…thus, “muffled” sound that you’re getting from aftermarket speakers.

Vocals and highs ALL come from the dash and A-pillar speakers.

If you’re planning on sticking with stock amp and headunit, then buy appropriate factory speakers … Otherwise you have to gut the whole system and install a full aftermarket system.
Thanks for breaking all that down for me. So if I'm running aftermarket 2ohm speakers with the OEM amp. Is the audio system just not running at its full capability. Or is this also hurting the amp as well?
 
Something else I just thought I'd ask you guys. Volume level wise, what do you guys consider normal, or to extreme level wise? 10's, 20's 30's? I usually run my FM sound level around 20 to 25. In that range, audio sounds good and full sounding. When I'm running music via bluetooth, I'm in the 30's & 40's before the sound, sounds full on.
 
What does this mean? JBL uses “Distributed Subwoofer System” (DSS). DSS uses bass from the cargo subwoofer AND the two front door mid-bass speakers to provide bass to the whole cabin.

So, those front lower door speakers are for BASS, not vocals. If you’re using the stock JBL amp, then that location is only getting mid-bass signals…thus, “muffled” sound that you’re getting from aftermarket speakers.
So are you saying that once I get a rear sub hooked back up. Then the 6x9's in the front doors will pushing more sound to the entire cabin, am I understanding that correctly?
 
So are you saying that once I get a rear sub hooked back up. Then the 6x9's in the front doors will pushing more sound to the entire cabin, am I understanding that correctly?
No. 6x9 in front door (if using stock amp and connections) will ONLY get bass signals…with or without subwoofer in cargo.
 
No, he is just saying that the system is tuned to use those 3 drivers to produce bass, they aren't linked in any way. . Adding the sub back is the first thing i would do if I was in your shoes. See if that "fixes" the balance well enough.

I would definitely go the used route. Maybe check eBay.

 
Something else I just thought I'd ask you guys. Volume level wise, what do you guys consider normal, or to extreme level wise? 10's, 20's 30's? I usually run my FM sound level around 20 to 25. In that range, audio sounds good and full sounding. When I'm running music via bluetooth, I'm in the 30's & 40's before the sound, sounds full on.
For me, i don’t listen to radio.

BT, CD, and wired connection (USB) are at level 18 (for my ears). I don’t think that your LC has USB connection.

WIth BT, don’t forget to increase the volume on YOUR PHONE to max level. THEN adjust your car audio volume.
 
Thanks for breaking all that down for me. So if I'm running aftermarket 2ohm speakers with the OEM amp. Is the audio system just not running at its full capability. Or is this also hurting the amp as well?
If the current speakers are of same ohm, then probably safe on the stock amp. Your “full-range” 6x9 speakers that you have now is NOT getting the full-range signal from the amp.
 
Impedance (ohms) is only part of the story. Yes similar ohms will be “safe” and not cook the amplifier, but as @lx200inAR stated above sensitivity is a very important indicator of how much sound a speaker will make for a given amplifier output level. And even that spec may (usually does) change with the frequency the speaker is driven at.

To get aftermarket speakers to approximate the stock output levels you’d need to match impedance and sensitivity. And even then the tuning can be very different.

A full aftermarket system might fix this, but in my experience it is very rare for an aftermarket system to be as harmonically balanced and tuned for the individual vehicle as a good stock system. It is very easy to make it louder.. and for some people this is all they want. But for it to sound “good”.. whole different thing. That is the whole point of the ML system in the LX.. yes, a lot of power, but very very careful speaker selection, placement, tuning, and equalization.. in part to cancel out the reality that this is installed into a metal and glass can with some leather seats, not a sound studio. The JBL system isn’t as well developed, but it is a whole lot further along than what the vast majority of audio shops can do.

WIth BT, don’t forget to increase the volume on YOUR PHONE to max level. THEN adjust your car audio volume.

This.
 
No, he is just saying that the system is tuned to use those 3 drivers to produce bass, they aren't linked in any way. . Adding the sub back is the first thing i would do if I was in your shoes. See if that "fixes" the balance well enough.

I would definitely go the used route. Maybe check eBay.

I actually just found that sub and added it to my "watch list" before you posted.
 
WIth BT, don’t forget to increase the volume on YOUR PHONE to max level. THEN adjust your car audio volume.
I always run it like this. Even with up on my phone I'm still running the car audio volume around 25 to 35. Which is the same volume that I was running in my 5th gen 4Runner.
 
Impedance (ohms) is only part of the story. Yes similar ohms will be “safe” and not cook the amplifier, but as @lx200inAR stated above sensitivity is a very important indicator of how much sound a speaker will make for a given amplifier output level. And even that spec may (usually does) change with the frequency the speaker is driven at.

To get aftermarket speakers to approximate the stock output levels you’d need to match impedance and sensitivity. And even then the tuning can be very different.

A full aftermarket system might fix this, but in my experience it is very rare for an aftermarket system to be as harmonically balanced and tuned for the individual vehicle as a good stock system. It is very easy to make it louder.. and for some people this is all they want. But for it to sound “good”.. whole different thing. That is the whole point of the ML system in the LX.. yes, a lot of power, but very very careful speaker selection, placement, tuning, and equalization.. in part to cancel out the reality that this is installed into a metal and glass can with some leather seats, not a sound studio. The JBL system isn’t as well developed, but it is a whole lot further along than what the vast majority of audio shops can do.



This.
Thanks bloc for the breakdown, I appreciate it. You would think being a guitar player who works on/ repairs guitars, amps, and effects would have an understanding of all this, but honestly I don't.
 

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