2010 vs 2014 LX 570...differenes?

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My mechanic checked out the 2014 and overall it's pretty good. But the suspension needs to be replaced, All the shocks are leaking and need replaced, the automatic transmission fluid is dirty and needs to be drained, the radiator is starting to show signs of a crack, The EFI needs fixing and The drive belts need to be replaced. With that said,, What do you think would be a fair offer nor no? I'm thinking $38000. ??

Certain parts of that make me suspicious of the overall assessment. Almost like they did a generalized mileage assessment bordering on maintenance items. Tranny fluid dirty...seriously? Nevermind these are lifetime fluids but certainly could be changed. Drive belts, sure, but I'm also sure they have plenty more life in them and could be done when the coolant pump needs servicing. EFI? WTF is that. Unless they're saying they see fuel trims at which point, okay, maybe something as dumb as an engine filter, throttle body cleaning, or possibly fuel pump. But saying EFI is not a diagnosis.

And shocks leaking? A normal car maybe has shocks that are end of life near that mileage. But AHC shocks typically last much longer. I'll give them the benefit that maybe 1, and at most 2 is leaking. But this is not typical or normal at that mileage. And definitely not all which is what makes this diagnosis suspicious.

Only thing real in my mind is the radiator.
 
My mechanic checked out the 2014 and overall it's pretty good. But the suspension needs to be replaced, All the shocks are leaking and need replaced, the automatic transmission fluid is dirty and needs to be drained, the radiator is starting to show signs of a crack, The EFI needs fixing and The drive belts need to be replaced. With that said,, What do you think would be a fair offer nor no? I'm thinking $38000. ??
My opinion is how does it drive? I had a weeping shock in the rear, with fresh fluid in the AHC leak is no more, totally dry, fluid flush isn’t a big deal, unless they are puddling under the car then it’s an issue. Assuming it’s rust free that’s not a bad system to bleed and refresh with fluid.
Tranny fluid can be taken care of with a case of fluid and do the exchange through the cooler lines. Plan on doing that in the spring, no real big deal there.
The efi would have to be specific, not familiar and not sure what he means
Drive belt is fine, $75 at local Lexus for the belt, it’s in my pile to replace when I get around to it.
Radiator for sure had the crack, they all do, not a hard job, plan on doing mine in the spring, for the mean time I put jb weld radiator repair putty on that area. I’ll watch it over the winter and replace in the spring, depends on how bad the crack is though, may need to do it sooner then later, mine wasn’t too bad so I opted to wait a little bit, we’ll see if it pays off or I’m doing this in February when it’s 20 degrees out
 
My opinion is how does it drive? I had a weeping shock in the rear, with fresh fluid in the AHC leak is no more, totally dry, fluid flush isn’t a big deal, unless they are puddling under the car then it’s an issue. Assuming it’s rust free that’s not a bad system to bleed and refresh with fluid.
Tranny fluid can be taken care of with a case of fluid and do the exchange through the cooler lines. Plan on doing that in the spring, no real big deal there.
The efi would have to be specific, not familiar and not sure what he means
Drive belt is fine, $75 at local Lexus for the belt, it’s in my pile to replace when I get around to it.
Radiator for sure had the crack, they all do, not a hard job, plan on doing mine in the spring, for the mean time I put jb weld radiator repair putty on that area. I’ll watch it over the winter and replace in the spring, depends on how bad the crack is though, may need to do it sooner then later, mine wasn’t too bad so I opted to wait a little bit, we’ll see if it pays off or I’m doing this in February when it’s 20 degrees out
I'm out in California, so no rust at all. Super clean. I thought she drove fine but my mechanic mentioned it was not as good as can be.

If they take my offer then I will be putting on different shocks anyway. Change the rims and bigger tires. I'm not to LX and not sure if i put on aftermarket shocks if I'll lose the ability to raise/lower her? Any input on that is appreciated.

The rest, as you said. Pretty basic. I'd probably juay do the radiator when doing the suspension. Would rather not have to wait for it to start leaking.
 
I'm out in California, so no rust at all. Super clean. I thought she drove fine but my mechanic mentioned it was not as good as can be.

If they take my offer then I will be putting on different shocks anyway. Change the rims and bigger tires. I'm not to LX and not sure if i put on aftermarket shocks if I'll lose the ability to raise/lower her? Any input on that is appreciated.

The rest, as you said. Pretty basic. I'd probably juay do the radiator when doing the suspension. Would rather not have to wait for it to start leaking.

Probably should read up on the AHC system. It's not really something the aftermarket supports. Then again, not sure it needs aftermarket support with what it's capable of stock. And what it can be built up to be. Fortunately, replacement OEM shocks are pretty cheap, ~$160F and $80R. With recent finding that the 300-series shocks may be able to drop in... possibilities.

 
I'm out in California, so no rust at all. Super clean. I thought she drove fine but my mechanic mentioned it was not as good as can be.

If they take my offer then I will be putting on different shocks anyway. Change the rims and bigger tires. I'm not to LX and not sure if i put on aftermarket shocks if I'll lose the ability to raise/lower her? Any input on that is appreciated.

The rest, as you said. Pretty basic. I'd probably juay do the radiator when doing the suspension. Would rather not have to wait for it to start leaking.
I’m with @TeCKis300 … I’d call that inspection pretty questionable… sounds a lot more like the standard “free” inspection from a s***ty Toyota dealer where they want to charge you $400 to “clean the efi”. Sounds more like a fishing expedition for some over priced “rehab”.

If your planning to pull AHC.. you might as well just start with an LC. The overall package of aftermarket suspension and 200 works better with LC. (Don’t take this as me suggesting an LC, I’m just saying if you get an LX, you should try out AHC)
 
I’m with @TeCKis300 … I’d call that inspection pretty questionable… sounds a lot more like the standard “free” inspection from a s***ty Toyota dealer where they want to charge you $400 to “clean the efi”. Sounds more like a fishing expedition for some over priced “rehab”.

If your planning to pull AHC.. you might as well just start with an LC. The overall package of aftermarket suspension and 200 works better with LC. (Don’t take this as me suggesting an LC, I’m just saying if you get an LX, you should try out AHC)
I definitely don't want ti pull it. I'm all for keeping it. But was more curious! I'd love an LC, but the LX us better barging here in San Diego.
 
Probably should read up on the AHC system. It's not really something the aftermarket supports. Then again, not sure it needs aftermarket support with what it's capable of stock. And what it can be built up to be. Fortunately, replacement OEM shocks are pretty cheap, ~$160F and $80R. With recent finding that the 300-series shocks may be able to drop in... possibilities.

I like keeping it stock too. I have a 2007, 6-speed FJ with 3" lift and full Fox shocks and Built Right UCAs...that's my fun mudder. The LX is road tripper but oh-by-the-way, off roader. I would like a but better look. Rims and tires. Little larger. More aggressive. I'm trying to read up on here for options to give it a beefier looks but nothing too crazy.
 

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