2010-2013 GX front bumper options? (1 Viewer)

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If you have Parking Assist, be sure that there are holes for the parking sensors in the front and also for the rear if you go with a rear bumper. There should be 4 holes for each, front and rear. 1 at each corner and 2 facing forward. My Metal Tech front and rear had them and I can still use my Parking Assist.
 
I have dobinson front and rear...had to drill holes for front (rear had them) but Parking assist working without issues.
 
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I have dobinson front and rear...had to drill holes for front (rear had them) but Parking assist working without issues.
I assume you carefully located them as close to the stock locations as possible?
Did you have any issues with rotational orientation? Meaning that keeping the 12 o-clock position from your stock bumper would still be the same 12 o-clock position on your Dobinson.
 
To be honest, I had the shop do them (and Dobinson sent a template for where they should go). And no issues.
 
Good point, unfortunately, I haven't seen any that support the headlight sprayers.

If you have Parking Assist, be sure that there are holes for the parking sensors in the front and also for the rear if you go with a rear bumper. There should be 4 holes for each, front and rear. 1 at each corner and 2 facing forward. My Metal Tech front and rear had them and I can still use my Parking Assist.
 
I've been thinking about getting back my headlight washers again. Need to see where to cut holes and what the nozzle looks like. I hope the guys who put my bumper on didn't just cut it all off! :oops:
 
I too thought they were always a gimmick. Thanks for info! Albeit, mine went away with my from bumper.
 
So I finally picked a company (Trail Ready) for a front bumper and they were able to slightly alter their original configuration to accommodate, and retained all the options I wanted.
  • Retain headlight sprayers (because the location of the cut stock bumper retained them)
  • Retain parking sensors (this is change from their original configuration and I supplied aftermarket flat sensor bezels)
  • Use of aluminum for rust resistance, and potentially lighter weight. (Winch cradle and hoops are steel, main bumper body is aluminum.
  • Hoop design for protection
I went with the Trail Ready bumper for the above reasons AND because I was able to go to their location and work with them. (They took measurements for the park sensor locations, and verified the headlight sprayers would work without modification).

I had them perform the install, which did require adding some wire to the park sensors at the corners.

I will say the process had very few hiccups, but all worked out in the end. I’m very happy with the end result:
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That is absolutely awesome!
For me, your bumper looks like it checked everything I would have wanted, especially the lighter weight material. Too bad I already have my MetalTech...
Couple of questions:
1) How did they attach the bull bars to the bumper? You cannot weld aluminum to any type of steel.
2) Do you know how much this new aluminum design weights?
 
That is absolutely awesome!
For me, your bumper looks like it checked everything I would have wanted, especially the lighter weight material. Too bad I already have my MetalTech...
Couple of questions:
1) How did they attach the bull bars to the bumper? You cannot weld aluminum to any type of steel.
2) Do you know how much this new aluminum design weights?
The tube guard (steel) is actually bolted through the aluminum main bumper body with some rather large bolts. With the threaded part inside of the tube. The aluminum bumper (I’ll have to check thickness) is then bolted to the winch cradle (which is steel). All bolts are carriage bolts that go thru square/rectangle holes and are captured by large lock washers and nuts. This allows for adjustment which can be a pain, but also a blessing to align at the same time.

Edit:
[All plate (Aluminum and steel) is 1/4” (.27” with powder coat). Even the top winch cover door.]

As far as weight savings, I don’t think there is much compared to the Ironman or ARB.. as they said it’s about 135lb. (I personally didn’t measure) with the tube. I guess the nice thing is one could order this bumper without the tube. Currently I have stock suspension, and I think I lost about 1/2”clearance measuring wheel center to fender edge.

I can take more specific images if anyone is curious about something.

One thing I learned is that 18” PIAA light bar (which is what the center bar is designed for) has 2 generations of the same light bar. The 1st gen one doesn’t have side mounts, which the 2nd gen (although same model#) has, which would have made the light look very integrated into the bar. I’m ok with the 1st gen light as it was $300 cheaper and it sticks up a tiny bit over the hood line, so I can actually see the center bar and judge distance better. So it works for me, even if I had to drill 2 holes through the flat plate.
 
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I agree with having the light bar a wee bit higher as "reference" point for the end of the bumper. It'll probably save a lot of minor dings on rear bumpers when parallel parking! :p
 

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