Builds 2008 LX Live Camera Car and Overlanding Build. (1 Viewer)

[CharlieS]

I suspect my Edgestar must be one of the rebranded versions of this general design. The construction and materials appear to be very similar.

 

[SharpeCat]

I suspect my Edgestar must be one of the rebranded versions of this general design. The construction and materials appear to be very similar.

I believe so. They said they are the manufacturer of the Danfoss and Secop compressors, and the price he offered me to give to mud members just cannot be beat, at least that I know of. Chances are that if it’s from China and has the same compressor, that it’s from the same factory. It helps that we are a private forum when it comes to getting discounts (publicly advertised discounts are usually not as good)

I have done a decent amount of digging; Not enough to make me an industry expert, but enough to let me know a good deal when I see one; Also enough to verify that “In China, everyone’s backdoors leads to someone else’s front door”. Sort of like the US actually, with only a few private entities owning most of the major corporations!

anyways, I am going to try and cover another angle and ask them what it would take to get our very own rebrand and custom size. At a custom size I can go 2nd-row, under exped, while still remaining leveled with the drawers in back so that bed is leveled. Also, a custom size would allow us to get the most out of the area by maximizing available width and length. I don’t have an 80 or 100 series or even a 4Runner and GX to do measurements in, but I wonder if there is a certain dimension that could work for most of the members here. For now I will go with my own measurements for 200 series, which I think will be the biggest chunk of future builds on here. It’s nice to be in a time when the 100 thousand dollar beast is finally becoming affordable for the ~20-30k folks, and with that will come a whole new generation of LC builds!

I will definitely keep everyone here posted on the fridge situation, and plan on making a group buy post after I get a little more information. I am calling it a group buy, but it is actually a discount code for their site so everyone can safely pay them directly. I don’t like managing money so i like doing it this way!

 

[1world1love]

I was really considering this yesterday, removing both 2nd row seats and doing something similar to the 70 series builds, but I decided against it because I still want the option of transporting 2 passengers. Now I am reconsidering it so that I can have both a level bed for me and Tiger, as well as have the fridge be higher than the bed. I think it’s pretty safe to give up on the idea that the fridge could sit low enough for Tiger to use it as a bed.

“Doing a split unit would require doing two drawers on the fridge side and will be a slightly more involved build, but wouldn’t be too difficult. It would give you a ton of storage.”

What about the bed side? I was thinking 2 drawers too because with 2nd row gone 1 is too long. Only difference is the 2 drawers will sit at equal height on bed side and on fridge side half will be bed height while other half is lowered for fridge. I was thinking a chest style drawer that opens from the top like the fridge, and sliding one just like yours in the rear for the bed side. On fridge side I need to have room for Tiger to get in and out somehow.

even if I take out entire 2nd row (which I can if needed), I still can’t put the fridge by the passenger door in 2nd row because that’s tigers way in and out if the car, so I need to keep that side low. Currently he climbs on the chair and climbs on bed from there, so the chair acts as a staircase of sorts. (I could always go back and use the pet ramp and let him in through the back, but I was hoping to get rid of the bulky pet ramp).

I have to figure out where best to put the fridge if I take out rest of 2nd row, So that Tiger can still use the 2nd row passenger side to get in and out.

Yeah, you have an interesting mix of requirements that will necessitate some creative thinking.

I wouldn't get your hopes up that a custom fridge solution will help too much. There are only so many ways you can design a 65qt fridge. You may gain an inch here or there, but it won't alleviate the bulk of your needs.

I went out and took some measurements just to try to understand a bit more. Let's take the fridge model above as our example. Again, you may move an inch or two one way or another, but all fridges in that size range are going to be about the same dimensions.

It looks like the 60 part of the second row would just be able to accommodate the fridge at 33". You might consider this - leave the 40 side in and build a platform on the 60 side that would extend the flat part where the seats are mounted so that you could mount the fridge as close to the back of the drivers seat as you can. That will depend on how far back you need the drivers seat to go.

For the drawers/platform, you go with 11" so that you can use the 40 side for your exped.

The fridge wouldn't be flush, but you would have a series of small "steps" required for the dog to get up there.

He can step into the cab on the 40 side like he does now. He can then step from the seat to the platform, and the platform to the fridge. None more than a few inches.

Something like this?

 

[1world1love]

With the above, you would have a fair amount of room on the platform. Your exped would be tight over the 40 seat, but it will fit. But then you have tons of room on the platform otherwise. The dog can sleep there or climb up on the fridge.

Construction would be fairly simple, but you should consider building it as two separate carcasses. You would want to split the 60 side of the platform into two narrow drawers and a hinged cubby. You could do that all as one carcass though. The other carcass is a simple box with a single drawer.

The platform itself would otherwise be exactly the same as mine except your two sections would be different dimensions. You would also have a hinged extension on the 60 side.

 

[SharpeCat]

Yeah, you have an interesting mix of requirements that will necessitate some creative thinking.

I wouldn't get your hopes up that a custom fridge solution will help too much. There are only so many ways you can design a 65qt fridge. You may gain an inch here or there, but it won't alleviate the bulk of your needs.

I went out and took some measurements just to try to understand a bit more. Let's take the fridge model above as our example. Again, you may move an inch or two one way or another, but all fridges in that size range are going to be about the same dimensions.

It looks like the 60 part of the second row would just be able to accommodate the fridge at 33". You might consider this - leave the 40 side in and build a platform on the 60 side that would extend the flat part where the seats are mounted so that you could mount the fridge as close to the back of the drivers seat as you can. That will depend on how far back you need the drivers seat to go.

For the drawers/platform, you go with 11" so that you can use the 40 side for your exped.

The fridge wouldn't be flush, but you would have a series of small "steps" required for the dog to get up there.

He can step into the cab on the 40 side like he does now. He can then step from the seat to the platform, and the platform to the fridge. None more than a few inches.

Something like this?

View attachment 2336517

you are amazing! Thank you for doing this as I imagine it takes some time to draw those up. looks good to me and this saves me a lot of time! I plan on printing this out once it’s finalized and taking it to Lowe’s to have them cut the wood for me. You also answered my question regarding the exped on 40 side, since I have been using it on the 60 and it fits just right (with third row in).

im 5’3 if that helps, so I can ride with the seat almost all the way forward lol

 

[1world1love]

It’s no problem.

I think you should take some measurements before doing anything else. My truck is a 13 and it shouldn’t be too different but there may be some.

Also, what kind of construction do you plan to use? What tools do you have at your disposal?

Your choice of joinery will have a bearing on your cut dimensions.

I suspect you want to make the most of your Lowe’s gift card, so planning is going to be key. As they say, measure twice, cut once.

 

[1world1love]

I should also add that your Exped would be squeezed a bit if you were to keep the 60 side, but I am allowing a little flexibility with the placement of the fridge. The 40 side seat is 23" wide. The Exped is 25 5/8". Without the 60 side, your Exped will overhang the 40 seat back on the interior side just a smidge. The whole thing will be snug, but it should work.

 

[SharpeCat]

It’s no problem.

I think you should take some measurements before doing anything else. My truck is a 13 and it shouldn’t be too different but there may be some.

Also, what kind of construction do you plan to use? What tools do you have at your disposal?

Your choice of joinery will have a bearing on your cut dimensions.

I suspect you want to make the most of your Lowe’s gift card, so planning is going to be key. As they say, measure twice, cut once.

Not sure what you mean by construction, but between my dad and Lowe’s and you guys, I should have all the expertise and tools I need. I plan on letting Lowe’s do the cutting for me.

 

[grinchy]

Not sure what you mean by construction, but between my dad and Lowe’s and you guys, I should have all the expertise and tools I need. I plan on letting Lowe’s do the cutting for me.

He means how you put the drawer cabinets together, whether you're using drawer slides or UHWMP for glides, etc.
For building the cabinets, how the wood overlaps affects the cut dimensions (which is longer, which is shorter).
For something like this, often tongue and groove joints are used instead of half-lap. If you don't want to deal with tongue and groove, I'd suggest you invest in a pocket hole jig at a minimum.

When i get around to building mine, I will likely pattern after the Reef, which uses AL 2040 for the frame and plywood carcass.

 

[1world1love]

Yeah, what grinchy says. The construction method is how you intend to assemble your cut pieces. This primarily boils down to joinery. How you join pieces together. There are many options and each has pros and cons.

For mine, I used rabbets, grooves, and dados. These are all variations of a method where you remove some material from one piece so that the other piece fits down in it.

For casework (building cabinet-like boxes) that need lots of structural integrity, rabbets, grooves, and dados are the best "fast and cheap" option in that they don't require complex cuts like dovetails and they don't require things like biscuits or dowels.

But they do require precision to be effective, and very clean cuts with sharp blades.

As grinchy mentioned, another option, which might be the best for you if you don't have access to a router with good quality bits, is pocket hole joinery. I'll followup in a minute, but you may want to take a look at these:

13 Methods of Wood Joinery Every Woodworker Should Know

Without wood joinery, a woodworking project would need to be carved from a single piece of wood. Here are the basic wood joints and when to use each.

www.thesprucecrafts.com

https://www.kregtool.com/webres/Files/basic_cabinetmaking_booklet.pdf

 

[SharpeCat]

Yeah, what grinchy says. The construction method is how you intend to assemble your cut pieces. This primarily boils down to joinery. How you join pieces together. There are many options and each has pros and cons.

For mine, I used rabbets, grooves, and dados. These are all variations of a method where you remove some material from one piece so that the other piece fits down in it.

For casework (building cabinet-like boxes) that need lots of structural integrity, rabbets, grooves, and dados are the best "fast and cheap" option in that they don't require complex cuts like dovetails and they don't require things like biscuits or dowels.

But they do require precision to be effective, and very clean cuts with sharp blades.

As grinchy mentioned, another option, which might be the best for you if you don't have access to a router with good quality bits, is pocket hole joinery. I'll followup in a minute, but you may want to take a look at these:

13 Methods of Wood Joinery Every Woodworker Should Know

Without wood joinery, a woodworking project would need to be carved from a single piece of wood. Here are the basic wood joints and when to use each.

www.thesprucecrafts.com

https://www.kregtool.com/webres/Files/basic_cabinetmaking_booklet.pdf

You guys are awesome.

my plan was to ask you guys when I get there soon lol, but you beat me to it! Plan B was to tap into the expertise and resourcefulness of the staff at Lowe’s and my dad. I was hoping they’d join it for me at Lowe’s and I can just fit it into the car at the store.

 

[grinchy]

I was hoping they’d join it for me at Lowe’s and I can just fit it into the car at the store.

your powers of persuasion must be legendary

 

[SharpeCat]

your powers of persuasion must be legendary

Lmao. Better to try and fail than to fail from not trying, right?

I figured if it doesn’t work they can at least recommend/show me how to do it. That was the plan, now the plan is to look into what you and 1world said for ideas And go from there. So I can expect to get it cut at Lowe’s but not get it attached?

 

[1world1love]

You guys are awesome.

my plan was to ask you guys when I get there soon lol, but you beat me to it! Plan B was to tap into the expertise and resourcefulness of the staff at Lowe’s and my dad. I was hoping they’d join it for me at Lowe’s and I can just fit it into the car at the store.

Hmm. I think you may be overestimating the capability of the folks at your local Lowe's. What you are planning essentially amounts to custom cabinetry and is much more involved than it might look or seem. It might not be rocket science, but it requires a lot of care and precision that the good people at Lowes are not capable of providing.

I would completely abandon the idea of having Lowes do these cuts for you, much less the joinery. The panel saws at Lowes aren't square, but even it were, the sheet goods at Lowes are very rarely square. You may find one good edge on each sheet, and it is critical to use that edge strategically. The panel saws at Lowes are meant for reducing sheets into more manageable sizes with rough cuts. You cannot get the kind of cuts that you will need from it.

I know that you have a Lowes gift card, but if you are able, you may consider sourcing your lumber from a reputable shop and then using your gift card for your hardware, tools, paint, and other finishes.

This is what you want: Woodshop Services - Capitol City Lumber

Also consider that you are in the furniture making center of the US, so you may be able to call around and see if one of the many shops can help you. In addition, there are lots of cooperatives where you can "buy" shop time in an actual wood shop that is preequiped with everything you need.

Finally, consider that you will likely not be able to build your drawers correctly for less than $300. You could do it in stages though. Build the carcasses and platform so that it is functional, and then build the drawers as you are able to. Take your time and do a quality job, and you will not only have a bullet proof drawer system, but you may also pick up a new hobby along the way.

 

[SharpeCat]

Hmm. I think you may be overestimating the capability of the folks at your local Lowe's. What you are planning essentially amounts to custom cabinetry and is much more involved than it might look or seem. It might not be rocket science, but it requires a lot of care and precision that the good people at Lowes are not capable of providing.

I would completely abandon the idea of having Lowes do these cuts for you, much less the joinery. The panel saws at Lowes aren't square, but even it were, the sheet goods at Lowes are very rarely square. You may find one good edge on each sheet, and it is critical to use that edge strategically. The panel saws at Lowes are meant for reducing sheets into more manageable sizes with rough cuts. You cannot get the kind of cuts that you will need from it.

I know that you have a Lowes gift card, but if you are able, you may consider sourcing your lumber from a reputable shop and then using your gift card for your hardware, tools, paint, and other finishes.

This is what you want: Woodshop Services - Capitol City Lumber

Also consider that you are in the furniture making center of the US, so you may be able to call around and see if one of the many shops can help you. In addition, there are lots of cooperatives where you can "buy" shop time in an actual wood shop that is preequiped with everything you need.

Finally, consider that you will likely not be able to build your drawers correctly for less than $300. You could do it in stages though. Build the carcasses and platform so that it is functional, and then build the drawers as you are able to. Take your time and do a quality job, and you will not only have a bullet proof drawer system, but you may also pick up a new hobby along the way.

Very insightful post. I will call around and visit some lumber/woodworking shops and see if someone can help me.

I will also check out makerspacer in Raleigh tomorrow when they are open, and maybe someone there can help me.

Thanks!

 

[1world1love]

When i get around to building mine, I will likely pattern after the Reef, which uses AL 2040 for the frame and plywood carcass.

I really like the Reef system and probably would have considered it for myself, but his design is, in part, to accommodate being able to flat pack for on-site assembly. So it is all knock-down hardware with structural reinforcement. The problem for me is that there is unusable space that is created by the use of these aluminum pieces.

I wanted to effectively use every possible centimeter of space, so my drawers are the full width, length, and height of the interior of my carcasses, minus a little for expansion in the wood. sheet goods aren't too prone to move, but they do. I'd say for 90 percent of use cases though, the Reef setup is amazing, and priced very reasonably for the quality.

 

[grinchy]

I really like the Reef system and probably would have considered it for myself, but his design is, in part, to accommodate being able to flat pack for on-site assembly. So it is all knock-down hardware with structural reinforcement. The problem for me is that there is unusable space that is created by the use of these aluminum pieces.

I wanted to effectively use every possible centimeter of space, so my drawers are the full width, length, and height of the interior of my carcasses, minus a little for expansion in the wood. sheet goods aren't too prone to move, but they do. I'd say for 90 percent of use cases though, the Reef setup is amazing, and priced very reasonably for the quality.

Yep. I'll be using a different carcass. If using internal frame it doesnt have to alao use 3/4" plywood (my opinion). Weight savings will be mine. But for now I'm just excited to have my 'drawer'

 

[SharpeCat]

Spoke to the people at Makerspace in Raleigh and they are very friendly. To join myself I need 50 for a safety course and it’s 100 per month, if I wanted access to the shop and use the tools myself. I told him I only needed to build 1 set of drawers and do not have 150, so he offered to let me come in and hang out and look for someone to “employ”. On top of that I told him I’m trying to document the process for building these drawers, and he said I can bring my camera/stream from there!

Got a few things to do then I’m going to spend a little time at makerspace and hopefully figure a few things out. I’m excited as I have been curious about these for a few months now (first heard of them when I was looking for places to charge my electronics).

Part of living on the road is learning to look at things like amazon lockers as my mailboxes, gyms/public restrooms as my Bathrooms and places with nice views as my bedrooms. These shared workshops can be my garages! Basically, most people have only 1 of each of these things, and I have thousands; I’m a rich man!

Anyways, I will go get some temporary replacement HDMI cables so I can run the stream and document my time at Makerspace. Long term I plan on replacing all my cables with magnetic ones, so that I don’t keep ruining/breaking the connection by accidentally bumping and jerking the cables loose. I replaced all my iPhone and micro-USBs with magnetic cables (called 3 in 1 cables) and have not had any break since. I have, however, had a ton of the old style connectors get ruined (got a pile of bad cables I need to throw out).

@1world1love thanks for leading me here!

Leaving this here to use as my “Before” picture. Hopefully a week from now she will look much different!

 

[SharpeCat]

Leaving this here to research later:

this is how I plan on getting enough bandwidth to do a live broadcast of mud events that I have the pleasure of attending. This one can bond wifi and cell signals.

Portabella - 4G LTE 5G Bonding | Mushroom Networks

Portabella enables portable internet access via 4G bonding, LTE bonding and 5G bonding.

www.mushroomnetworks.com

This one is an alternative, can bond cell signals.

LiveU Solo

Best-in-class ‘plug and play’ live streaming bonding solution

gosolo.tv

Both requires a service subscription for bonding signals, which can get expensive (up to 250 per month), and both require that you buy data sticks/hotspots options from providers (phones sim will not work, has to be the USB stick).

third option is to build my own bonder device And try speedify’s cheap bonding service (data will still be expensive):

IRL Streaming Gear Alternative to LiveU Solo and Gunrun - Speedify

While the Gunrun backpack is a reference for IRL streamers, there are cheaper alternatives you can use for your IRL streaming gear. We made one using a Raspberry Pi.

speedify.com

 

[SharpeCat]

Didn’t take the cam in today, but My visit to Makerspace went GREAT!! The guy who is helping me is a very modest and nice guy, who is full of knowledge when it comes to woodworking. I learned so much in my short time there.

He is going as far as sourcing cheap materials that are strong, to cutting and joining and even engraving it for me for a modest price. I plan on engraving the ih8mud logo onto it because these drawers and the ideas that go into it are gathered from here. I am making some minor modifications to help secure certain things like my genesis Basecamp system (a big cup/pot holder) and power stations.

next step is to document the entire build process! I will be spending a lot of time here at Makerspace working with James, And ultimately I hope to make it a little easier for others who are trying to do the same. Thanks to everyone who has paved the way, and I hope I can pay it forward with this project.

And if things go well, James and I are very open to the idea of having James join the mud community and giving our members another option when it comes to drawers. It’s one of his dreams to be able to open a small shop and do this full time/fill a niche. Not only is this cheaper, I feel like my money could not go to someone more deserving!

You guys will see a lot of updates on this as I don’t plan on holding back any details! Tomorrow I will stream it, and we are sitting down and looking at all the big name drawers and other DIY projects to use as a base for comparison and to gather ideas, and then we are discussing materials and costs and etc. I like that he breaks down costs based on materials, and explains the benefits of each. He can also source me the materials needed for a good price!