Builds 2008 LX Live Camera Car and Overlanding Build. (2 Viewers)

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An often overlooked aspect of having a mechanic do the oil change is that they will generally look over the vehicle and potentially spot problems you might not be aware of; this can be quite valuable if you're dealing with a competent and honest/ethical mechanic.
I was thinking that the things that i couldn't do myself, like alignments, that i would ask them to look over things then. I plan on getting an alignment soon after i do brakes (this weekend). I think i will have lexus do the first alignment so that i can ask them to look over the AHC system (since i did sensor lift) to make sure everything is sitting as it should. Then after that i was going to look for some sort of alignment membership where i get unlimited alignments and pay yearly. Maybe i can find a decent place with an alignment plan so i can have them keep an eye on things as well. Thanks for offering that for consideration.
 
Couple this with your ARB.

The Dual ARB can move more air than your tire valves will let through. Inflating (or deflating) all four at once will work even faster.

That is very nice, and i would definitely consider it if it wasn't close to 200 bucks. I think i will stick with one at a time for now and at some point pick up a second/longer hose, then look into a splitter/equalizer similar to what they have. That way i can inflate/deflate 2 at a time. I like the idea of keeping a long hose around in case i need to air up others.
 
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Couple this with your ARB.

The Dual ARB can move more air than your tire valves will let through. Inflating (or deflating) all four at once will work even faster.

Gave this more thought and i found this:


Given that if i bought everything he said in the list, that i would end up spending just as much as the system you linked. However, i already have some of the pieces so i put together what it would cost to get the pieces i need to make a DIY version. Here is what i came up with. It is a little less than 90 bucks, and takes into account that i already have 1 hose.

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Gave this more thought and i found this:


Given that if i bought everything he said in the list, that i would end up spending just as much as the system you linked. However, i already have some of the pieces so i put together what it would cost to get the pieces i need to make a DIY version. Here is what i came up with. It is a little less than 90 bucks, and takes into account that i already have 1 hose.

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That works too. I just don't have a lot of free time and he had a sale over December. 19% off
 
Well guess who isn’t making it to class today lol. I started hearing and feeling metal on metal on front right last night so I decided to do front pads before class. I thought it would be a quick and easy job until this happened.

Going to leave it like that and go find some pins, then do the other 3 pads tomorrow when my rear pads get here. At least I got the front right done and that’s where all the noise was coming from.

Anyone know where I can find these pins, also what do you guys use as lubricant to make it easier to remove pins next time?

Also, I realize she could use a wash.

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Pads I took out from front right. Nothing but metal. Now I can hear metal on metal on front left now that noise from right is gone. Guess I’m not waiting til tomorrow to do left

Any advice on getting the broken pin out?

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Can you push it out using another pin?

No it is really stuck in there; i had trouble getting other ones out too, which is why i want to replace the pins/grease the new ones. When i did a google search it showed that autozone had some so i'm going to go ahead and pick up some new pins if they are a match.

I am thinking i need to use something small and a hammer and just push it in/out that way. Speaking of which, what do you guys use to coat bolts and stuff with, to make future removal easier? I might sand down the holes the pin go into a little as well.

 
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No it is really stuck in there; i had trouble getting other ones out too, which is why i want to replace the pins/grease the new ones. When i did a google search it showed that autozone had some so i'm going to go ahead and pick up some new pins if they are a match.

I am thinking i need to use something small and a hammer and just push it in/out that way. Speaking of which, what do you guys use to coat bolts and stuff with, to make future removal easier? I might sand down the holes the pin go into a little as well.

Maybe a punch and a hammer.

 
Buy an extra set of pins - one that you can use as a sacrificial punch to get the old one out. Normally these are coated with a specific grease designed for caliper slide and the back of brake shoes. Ask for it at autozone.
 
Buy an extra set of pins - one that you can use as a sacrificial punch to get the old one out. Normally these are coated with a specific grease designed for caliper slide and the back of brake shoes. Ask for it at autozone.

I asked the autozone folks and they recommended brake lubricant, and good idea on using the broken pin as a punch.

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FYI the part I linked earlier was the wrong part, it is too short. Here is picture of right part for caliper pins from autozone.

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Always the last wheels that gives you the hardest time... I broke off the wheel lock key and lock trying to get the last wheel off, and now the wheel lock is stuck on there. I am riding on 3 new TRD brake pads and 1 completely worn OEM pad until i get this figured out. Whoever did the last brakes (Lexus) did not lubricate anything, and i had a difficult time getting the pins out (broke one pin in front and stripped one pin in rear). I went ahead and put new pins in and lubricated them.

I contacted McGard and they said to send them a picture of one of the wheel locks so they can identify the pattern and send me a new key (15 bucks).

I did some digging and seems the most common method is to hammer a 12-point socket (20mm?) into the lock, and then use a breaker bar to get it out. I think i will replace it with a normal nut after i get the lock nut out.

All i could think is that i am glad it happened here at home and not while i am in the middle of nowhere, and for this reason i am considering swapping out the lock nuts for normal nuts. I don't think anyone will try to steal my 10+ year old OEM wheels, that and i don't plan on keeping them for long anyways.

At some point i plan on getting some rock warriors, hopefully within next few months, and i wonder if i should order extra lock keys/nuts for those in case this happens, or if i dare to not lock my rock warriors when i get them.

Also, at some point i was going to invest in a good torque wrench (without breaking the bank), and seeing as this happened because the wheel lock was over tightened, then now may be a good time to get one to make sure i don't over tighten it again. Will gladly accept suggestions (under $150) for torque wrenches. Also, 1/2 or 3/8s?
 
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Always the last wheels that gives you the hardest time... I broke off the wheel lock key and lock trying to get the last wheel off, and now the wheel lock is stuck on there. I am riding on 3 new TRD brake pads and 1 completely worn OEM pad until i get this figured out. Whoever did the last brakes (Lexus) did not lubricate anything, and i had a difficult time getting the pins out (broke one pin in front and stripped one pin in rear). I went ahead and put new pins in and lubricated them.

I contacted McGard and they said to send them a picture of one of the wheel locks so they can identify the pattern and send me a new key (15 bucks).

I did some digging and seems the most common method is to hammer a 12-point socket (20mm?) into the lock, and then use a pry bar to get it out. I think i will replace it with a normal nut after i get the lock nut out.

All i could think is that i am glad it happened here at home and not while i am in the middle of nowhere, and for this reason i am considering swapping out the lock nuts for normal nuts. I don't think anyone will try to steal my 10+ year old OEM wheels, that and i don't plan on keeping them for long anyways.

At some point i plan on getting some rock warriors, hopefully within next few months, and i wonder if i should order extra lock keys/nuts for those in case this happens, or if i dare to not lock my rock warriors when i get them.

Also, at some point i was going to invest in a good torque wrench (without breaking the bank), and seeing as this happened because the wheel lock was over tightened, then now may be a good time to get one to make sure i don't over tighten it again. Will gladly accept suggestions (under $150) for torque wrenches. Also, 1/2 or 3/8s?

FYI Discount Tire (or America's Tire depending on where you live) will take them off without a key. I think I paid $20 a wheel.
 
FYI Discount Tire (or America's Tire depending on where you live) will take them off without a key. I think I paid $20 a wheel.
That is good to know, thank you.

That will likely be last resort, since i want to figure out how to deal with it on my own first. That way, i will be okay if it happens when i am on the trails doing a tire swap.
 
That is bum luck. I got a spare set of lugs off CL for $10 as some of my lugs were rough and did away with the wheel locks at the same time. My car came with two wheel keys and it was still too much risk
they are nothing but trouble those theft prevention lugs.
 
Also any thief can get the master set of keys if they want. Requires more preparation than a +4 lug wrench but not much.
 
Tekton sells torque wrenches that won't break the bank. So far they have been good to me. have a larger 1/2" along with a 3/8" I keep in the truck. You can order from their website or good ole Amazon.

Also if you do get Rock Warriors they use spline lugs so if you're worried about thieves they'd need an adapter for that anyways.
 
Long story short, every tire shop quoted me 30 mins and 55-60 bucks, that’s “IF” they could do it. They said they had to look at it first when I called.

Which forced me back to the hammering a socket strategy. After several failed attempts I learned that:

-has to be 19 mm (maybe 3/4?) long socket, as the short socket bottoms out before getting grip

-has to be 12 point socket

- gotta really hammer it in, May have to sacrifice a socket

With that said, it was unbelievably easy once I committed to hammering the 19mm in there. It took me a while to find a 19mm long 12 point socket and to commit to hammering, but once I did it took about 1 minute total to get it out. About 30 seconds hammering and another 30 to hook up and use the breaker bar.

I think I will order a replacement key and lock after all, knowing that even worst case scenario is still easy to deal with.

I like my small victories, and will enjoy putting in the last pads tomorrow now that this is out of the way!

Yep, that was me that cracked the Center cap, use that as a reminder to be careful when hammering, and not to use a short socket (much easier to slip and hit wheel/center cap). Well... and to take the cap off first but let’s focus on the small victories part please.
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Glad you got it off!
To each their own, but carrying a lug nut rescue socket seems a bit much. Then again, I've got no good place to keep my axle nut socket, so it rides around with me.
 

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