Builds 2008 LX Live Camera Car and Overlanding Build. (2 Viewers)

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@Dangcat for me the part that is circled in red didn't work. not sure if LX will have the same issue
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I'd skip the lock. In that place the locks always get covered in grime and can seize, even with a cover. And at the worst possible time you'll realize you don't have the key with you.

I keep my hitch empty when not in use. Alleviates potential problems if I get rear ended, and nothing to steal that way.

I only ever lock my bike hitch because it's expensive and is a big target, but it's never in the hitch for more than the time it takes to get home.
 
Yep, ended up taking lock out and went with the rest of the order (273 for everything). Had enough money
left over to pick up a cheap 1080p drone and another suction mount (for mounting camera outside of car)!

Thanks for all the help everyone, i really appreciate it. Have a good night!
 
You guys are missing the point with the dampers. And worse by using steel...I have seen the sling shoot sky high without one. If you are in the bush and somebody gets clocked you are done for. Or, in my case, drive 200 miles with wind blowing in to get a new window. So let's play ball:

Amazon product ASIN B009R5VIGYAmazon product ASIN B003U9VE94https://www.amazon.com/Adventure-Me...2192-7547-4d9b-b4f8-fe31bfe05040&tag=ogl02-20

I am not working with steel or a winch, only with a rope. I was going to get dampers when winches start getting involved, are you saying I need them sooner? Thanks in advance.
 
I am not working with steel or a winch, only with a rope. I was going to get dampers when winches start getting involved, are you saying I need them sooner? Thanks in advance.

I think Bunga is saying that while using snatch straps, there's still a risk of something breaking, flying and causing damage. I suppose it's possible and a damper won't hurt, although I've never heard of someone using a damper on anything other than a winch line.
 
I had a Viair 400p-RV (kit) at one point. Worked fine, nice set of accessories in the kit, but I wanted faster inflation (more airflow), so upgraded to an ARB Twin.

If you're airing down/up, consider tire deflators - they'll make life a bit easier. I have the Staun deflators, but there are many other, similar products.

Keep posting your ideas, we will happily help you spend your money! :rofl:
 
I had a Viair 400p-RV (kit) at one point. Worked fine, nice set of accessories in the kit, but I wanted faster inflation (more airflow), so upgraded to an ARB Twin.

If you're airing down/up, consider tire deflators - they'll make life a bit easier. I have the Staun deflators, but there are many other, similar products.

Keep posting your ideas, we will happily help you spend your money! :rofl:

I was looking at the Staun just now after reading so many good things about it, and decided to give cheaper knock-offs a try. Then i come back here and saw that you recommended it, so I'll take it as a sign! Thanks lol.

Amazon product ASIN B077JGKYG4
I decided to put the drone, rhino deflator/inflator, and shovel back and go for a compressor instead. I have a 720P drone at work i can borrow for the weekend.

Also bought 10 quarts of mobil 1 synthetic and half case of Toyota OEM oil filters (5x), along with a oil filter wrench. I am officially broke until next paycheck but i have zero regrets.
 
Sorry, I wasn't clear. Many kinds of straps have metal hooks at the ends. Most people use steel shackles as you showed on the first page. Instead, I recommend the soft-shackle styles woven fabric connectors (unless you have the specific shackle hole in a aftermarket metal bumper).

Steel shackles and the tow hooks are lethal weapons. Perfectly fine to use with care, and care includes using a form of damper. The problem with the hook is that they can slip off or break, all the common ones are poorly made. The shackles mainly just break when they are underspec or cheap junk, but they can also thread seize on dirt or shock.
 
air compressor is a buy once cry once proposition. Consider how long you want to be literally out in the cold, standing in mud, or hooking up jumper leads for power to your battery To run the tihing,
my personal story. I got a small generic dual slime compressor. It was $50:eek:r so and pumped up tires eventually. After a couple uses the switch broke, so I wired in a new one. Then I realized I didn’t trust it. So after reading around ended up with the arb twin. It is a lot of money no doubt. And the fittings, air tankand hose if you go full built in add up too. But I’m not worried about it breaking. It might, everything can fail, but I don’t worry. Also it’s pretty fast, which I totally appreciate all winter long.
 
I’ll add I looked a lot at the dual viair packages with and without tank. Her is also a small manufacturer in north California with some stout purpose built compressors if you want non arb options. In the end I didn’t like any of the non under hood mounting locations, so the twin has the right form factor and plug and play aftermarket for that.
 
So amazon suspended my account and cancelled all my orders thinking someone else was ordering these things (unusual/unauthorized activity). Apparently ordering too much can be a red flag. It took speaking to 5 reps over several hours (all Indian call center reps) to explain that it was me, and that because the orders were cancelled (some 2 days after i ordered), that i will no longer get some things in time if i had to reorder it; because of this they offered to cover expedited shipping if i were to re order it.

Their solution was to let me re order things and offer a free month of prime so i can get prime shipping/free 1-day for items eligible, as well as refund the shipping cost difference for items not eligible. Fortunately for them, i have a prime student account and most things were free shipping anyways, so they only had to cover 2 items (toyota filter and air compressor, and drone but i put drone back to upgrade compressor).

For the compressor there was no viair alternative that will get here in time, so i chose the ARB single (they offer 1 day shipping). They said they will refund me for the $80 difference in cost to make up for their mistake. I am still trying to figure out what to do with the oil filters since there is nothing comparable for "half case/5 toyota oem filter elements". Might have to wait another week for my oil change. @bjowett any chance i can get a oil filter cap/ez drain this week for next week's oil change?

Amazon product ASIN B07TXRM272
 
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Sorry, I wasn't clear. Many kinds of straps have metal hooks at the ends. Most people use steel shackles as you showed on the first page. Instead, I recommend the soft-shackle styles woven fabric connectors (unless you have the specific shackle hole in a aftermarket metal bumper).

Steel shackles and the tow hooks are lethal weapons. Perfectly fine to use with care, and care includes using a form of damper. The problem with the hook is that they can slip off or break, all the common ones are poorly made. The shackles mainly just break when they are underspec or cheap junk, but they can also thread seize on dirt or shock.

Gotcha. I did switch to soft shackles as someone pointed it out very quickly when they saw that i linked metal shackles. Thank you for the further clarification on this.

@grinchy duly noted. I upgraded to the automatic version from ViAir last night before i ordered, so that i did not have to stand outside and wait/remain squatted the whole time. When they cancelled the order by mistake and i had to reorder with faster shipping, i went with the ARB single tank one. I do like having it permanently mounted neatly in the hood/somewhere, but i just was not ready to spend that kind of money on the ARB TWIN. With the $80 discount from amazon, i can afford to give the single one a chance. Thanks for your insight brother.
 
Couple this with your ARB.

The Dual ARB can move more air than your tire valves will let through. Inflating (or deflating) all four at once will work even faster.

 
Might have to wait another week for my oil change. @bjowett any chance i can get a oil filter cap/ez drain this week for next week's oil change?

Oil for the 200's is stupidly cheap. A local Indy did my last oil change and charged me around $85CAD (65 of the bald-eagle-carrying-M16-currency) for the synthetic oil (which was bought at the local Toyota dealership), and $20-30 CAD for their time. At that price I'll happily have them do all my oil changes and save me the hassle of cleanup.

Consider calling up your local dealer and see if they'll offer similar pricing.
 
Oil for the 200's is stupidly cheap. A local Indy did my last oil change and charged me around $85CAD (65 of the bald-eagle-carrying-M16-currency) for the oil, and $20-30 CAD for their time. At that price I'll happily have them do all my oil changes and save me the hassle of cleanup.

Consider calling up your local dealer and see if they'll offer similar pricing.

I have been considering this for the reason that it keeps the record in the national database, but when i consider that i plan on driving this thing into the ground/running up the miles/being the last owner, then i realize that the knowledge goes a long way and that every little bit i save will add up if i do them all myself. I also plan on recording everything when i work on it, so that is a form of records on its own.

Good to know though, thank you. I'll probably do it when it is convenient for me to just have a shop do it, like when i am on the road and do not have a drain pan with me or something.
 
I have been considering this for the reason that it keeps the record in the national database, but when i consider that i plan on driving this thing into the ground/running up the miles/being the last owner, then i realize that the knowledge goes a long way and that every little bit i save will add up if i do them all myself. I also plan on recording everything when i work on it, so that is a form of records on its own.

Good to know though, thank you. I'll probably do it when it is convenient for me to just have a shop do it, like when i am on the road and do not have a drain pan with me or something.

An often overlooked aspect of having a mechanic do the oil change is that they will generally look over the vehicle and potentially spot problems you might not be aware of; this can be quite valuable if you're dealing with a competent and honest/ethical mechanic.
 
After buying a bunch of replacement bolts for the skids and chiseling off my oil filter housing, no one but me does oil changes. Once a year I can spend 60 min on that, which is less than driving time to my local dealer and back.
Special spill free tools are less than $100 and you only have to buy them once.
 

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