Perfect time to also do water pump, serp belt tensioner/belt, and thermostat if you haven't already done those.
2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement (13 Viewers)
- Thread starter jclarke450
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Thanks for the advice! From what I’ve read in here sounds like others have purchased those items from rock auto instead of going oem without issue. That was what I planned to do unless the general consensus is oem or nothing?
get the serp belt tensioner/belt and thermostat from Toyota. Get the Aisin water pump from Rock Auto. Don't think you need them yet, but if you want to get upper and lower radiator hoses get OEM also. I'm replacing mine for the first time at 228,000 miles (same with fan clutch, idler pulley, and fan bracket).
Think there is a coupon code around here for 5% off Rock Auto in the classifieds.
TLC2013
SILVER Star
I used camelback toyota and ordered online. I wanted to use all oem parts. There prices are decent and have quick shipping to CA. Here’s my order list minus the thermostat housing gasket.
I went with a high temperature epoxy and it failed. I need one more day until the rad arrives -
Bummer man. I’m telling you if you need a fix today go with gorilla weld from HD. Two part epoxy. Had several hundred miles on my 2010 with 153k and it’s still holding.... here’s a pic. PS. Sand it very well with 180grit.
bloc
SILVER Star
For anyone going further than radiator and doing tensioner/idler/water pump, seriously consider doing your fan support bearing. It sees a lot of force, and at 150k mine was just starting to make noise.
As for rock auto vs OE.. I'd go OEM for any pullies & belt, rock auto Aisin is probably fine for the pump.
As for rock auto vs OE.. I'd go OEM for any pullies & belt, rock auto Aisin is probably fine for the pump.
Do you have a part # for the fan support bearing you mention? What did the noise sound like?
bloc
SILVER Star
16380-0S010
Fan support bracket & bearing - with high mileage check yours
2013 3UR-FE Landcruiser, just approaching 150k miles. I had a belt squeal on cold start at about 120k and installed a new OEM serp belt, which resolved the issue. At the time I checked the condition of the idler and tensioner pullies, as well as the fan support bearing (our fan doesn't run on...
forum.ih8mud.com
Thanks!16380-0S010
Fan support bracket & bearing - with high mileage check yours
2013 3UR-FE Landcruiser, just approaching 150k miles. I had a belt squeal on cold start at about 120k and installed a new OEM serp belt, which resolved the issue. At the time I checked the condition of the idler and tensioner pullies, as well as the fan support bearing (our fan doesn't run on...
Is there a way to know if the radiator is original or has been replaced? I purchased my 2011 LX with 115K miles on it and now at 126K. No sign of a crack that I can see.
According to CarFax, the previous owner had been in a minor accident where they rear-ended someone in August of 2018. There is no way to contact the previous owner at this point. So, I'm curious to know if I can determine if the radiator is the original one or replaced in 2018 and if replaced, was the new design used to replace it.
I really tried to scan all 45 pages of this thread but my eyes were tired and I may have missed any tips on identifying the version I have on my LX.
According to CarFax, the previous owner had been in a minor accident where they rear-ended someone in August of 2018. There is no way to contact the previous owner at this point. So, I'm curious to know if I can determine if the radiator is the original one or replaced in 2018 and if replaced, was the new design used to replace it.
I really tried to scan all 45 pages of this thread but my eyes were tired and I may have missed any tips on identifying the version I have on my LX.
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
See if you can find a part number on it which will let you know if it was the original or an updated (although same older design).
The flat part where the part number is printed is flat. Where it meets the curve of the radiator top was shaped differently between the old and the new. There are pictures of both in this thread.
So, I have the original style of radiator and upon closer inspection, it appears that I have the beginnings of the dreaded crack. I was hoping that the previous owner had been forced to replace it in 2018 after their accident. Even if they replace it with the original style, that would have meant I'd get another 7-9 years before have to replace it probably.
I'm thinking about putting the patch on it for now to see if it'll hold together. My family CFO will keep my budget for goodies to a minimum if I have to replace the radiator and all the other parts everyone is suggesting be done while replacing it. In other words, get the sliders soon with my "fun" money and then if/when the radiator fails I won't be forced to put the sliders on hold for months.
I may be going on a long (8 hours, one way) road trip this summer, assuming we're allowed to travel. Other than that, just some light daily driving.
Any thoughts?
CharlieS
GOLD Star
I'm on the same trajectory, so I just put an ~$800 order into Olathe Toyota. Figure I might as well do the water pump, idler, belt and hoses while I'm in there. Costly, but a whole lot better than paying shop rates, or even worse being stranded on a trip. If any of the parts I remove are good, they become emergency spares.
As much as I like spending on the fun stuff, given a choice, I'd do the preventative maintenance first, and the optional add-ons later.
As much as I like spending on the fun stuff, given a choice, I'd do the preventative maintenance first, and the optional add-ons later.
Agree. I did the same. I was quoted $3k at the dealer to replace the radiator and fix the engine valley coolant leak. Granted this was on the high end. This did not include any of the extras like WP, hoses, belt, etc. I posted my quote somewhere in this thread.
That is what my radiator crack looked like at 53k miles. I am sure it was there long before that but that's when I took it to our local dealer and the SM took a picture of it. Almost 21k miles later and it still looks the same. I can hear a tick-tock-tick-tock coming from under the hood some were and its not the timing chain.
I will be making a patch for the top of the radiator on the 200 some time this summer (or maybe before ). The fiberglass patch will be the structural strength to resist or decrease flexing from thermal expansion. With release agent I should be able to remove the patch and prep both surfaces and re attach the patch with a known adhesive that bonds better than the resin. My research is still in progress for the right glue and I am open for suggestions . I wanted to try 3M 5200 but it says it has a working limit of 190 deg. I have not found the right bonding agent yet and still doing lots of elimination and am looking into aviation applications like 3M EC 3333 B/C. I hate the idea of stop drilling before it fails but that is part of the process.
I know its going to fail at that point sooner or later but I think of it as a challenge to correct something that is a manufacture defect. And I kinda like the challenge or should we call it therapy.
I will be making a patch for the top of the radiator on the 200 some time this summer (or maybe before ). The fiberglass patch will be the structural strength to resist or decrease flexing from thermal expansion. With release agent I should be able to remove the patch and prep both surfaces and re attach the patch with a known adhesive that bonds better than the resin. My research is still in progress for the right glue and I am open for suggestions . I wanted to try 3M 5200 but it says it has a working limit of 190 deg. I have not found the right bonding agent yet and still doing lots of elimination and am looking into aviation applications like 3M EC 3333 B/C. I hate the idea of stop drilling before it fails but that is part of the process.
I know its going to fail at that point sooner or later but I think of it as a challenge to correct something that is a manufacture defect. And I kinda like the challenge or should we call it therapy.
