2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement (13 Viewers)

[TeCKis300]

Best time to patch is when it's perfect. It works less as a leak patch and more as a structural fillet, effectively removing the possibility of stresses concentrating at the corner in the first place.

Even with a crack, but prior to leaking, a patch like this could completely mitigate the failure mode.

 

[bloc]

It could, but if it doesn’t it will definitely hide the propagating crack from inspection until things are much worse.

This is the single really common problem with these trucks. IMO the relatively low cost and effort to install the new design radiator and just not have to worry about it at all for likely the rest of the life of the truck is worth it.

Edit: this isn't to say don't do it to hold you over if you just don't have time to mess with the radiator, or you notice the crack in the middle of a roadtrip. I just don't think any kind of patch is a good long-term solution compared to the cost and superior peace of mind of a new updated radiator.

 

[TeCKis300]

You're missing the point and perhaps you're not understanding the mechanical science at play here. The failure mode is a classic stress riser and material fatigue due to the corner geometry.

A patch is not hiding anything. From an engineering perspective, it can and will outright fix the issue as it geometrically removes the stress riser. Such that the forces can no longer concentrate solely on a corner to create or propagate a weakness. It's akin to drilling holes at the end of cracks. That will outright stop further elongation of the crack.

 

[Supra88]

A gob of epoxy would be fine for a high school kids beater Camry, but for an $85,000 Land Cruiser it seems reasonable to just put in a $300 radiator. And thats coming from a geeky engineer.

 

[TeCKis300]

I'm not trying to excuse the shortcoming here. Do as you wish.

You might want to know, there's plenty of globs of epoxy and adhesives, from the factory, under that nice shiny exterior cover.

 

[bloc]

You're missing the point and perhaps you're not understanding the mechanical science at play here. The failure mode is a classic stress riser and material fatigue due to the corner geometry.

A patch is not hiding anything. From an engineering perspective, it can and will outright fix the issue as it geometrically removes the stress riser. Such that the forces can no longer concentrate solely on a corner to create or propagate a weakness. It's akin to drilling holes at the end of cracks. That will outright stop further elongation of the crack.

I was a member of the stress riser club until @Tadem posted his pics in #1034. It clearly shows the tank material being significantly thinner at the bottom of the small vertical edge.

Probably some issue with how the plastic is injected and molded. I do believe repeated stress in that location makes the situation worse, but as good of an idea as spreading those forces out is, there are variables like the material used and it’s ability to deal with the conditions and application... and it might not hold.

And IF your patch doesn’t truly hold and disperse the forces it IS hiding the crack propagating. Sorta like if you don’t get your holes drilled at the very end of the crack.

Edit: the very fact that Tadem was able to cleanly remove his patch without damaging the underlying material means they don't stick on there all that well. At least not in a way I'd regard as becoming an additional part of the tank structure.

 

[TeCKis300]

I was a member of the stress riser club until @Tadem posted his pics in #1034. It clearly shows the tank material being significantly thinner at the bottom of the small vertical edge.

Probably some issue with how the plastic is injected and molded. I do believe repeated stress in that location makes the situation worse, but as good of an idea as spreading those forces out is, there are variables like the material used and it’s ability to deal with the conditions and application... and it might not hold.

And IF your patch doesn’t truly hold and disperse the forces it IS hiding the crack propagating. Sorta like if you don’t get your holes drilled at the very end of the crack.

Edit: the very fact that Tadem was able to cleanly remove his patch without damaging the underlying material means they don't stick on there all that well. At least not in a way I'd regard as becoming an additional part of the tank structure.

Understanding the root issue, I look at it less as a patch, and more as a fix. Much the way a tire puncture can be repaired with correct application of a fix. Sure, sometime we might just replace the tire.

I do agree with your point, and buyer beware. If it's fixed too late, or the application of the patch is not well applied, it can still fail.

My point having dealt with composites on aircraft - if done early enough before it has compromised the corner, it can outright fix the vulnerability.

You might note that what he posted here:

I was able to remove epoxy patch and crack didn't expand beyond original 75K point.

 

[Tadem]

Understanding the root issue, I look at it less as a patch, and more as a fix. Much the way a tire puncture can be repaired with correct application of a fix. Sure, sometime we might just replace the tire.

I do agree with your point, and buyer beware. If it's fixed too late, or the application of the patch is not well applied, it can still fail.

My point having dealt with composites on aircraft - if done early enough before it has compromised the corner, it can outright fix the vulnerability.

You might note that what he posted here:

To add more details to this.
This is the patch I used Versachem 90214 Plastic Tank and Radiator Repair Kit - 30 Grams Amazon product ASIN B0009MZI4MI did follow instructions and used provided sanding paper to prep the area. Applied first layer of epoxy put fiberglass on top and covered the whole area with second layer of epoxy.

It dried overnight in the garage. Over the next week I could flex the area right at the spot of weak point. But rest felt solid and patch covered larger area than the crack length.

I was surprised that when I tried to peal it pulled as single peace revealing sanded surface. It felt like the whole patch was holding by edges. Adding picture of different angle of stress area.

 

[FerrisBueller]

This is the patch I used Versachem 90214 Plastic Tank and Radiator Repair Kit - 30 Grams

I read the description for this kit. It says the maximum temperature it's rated for is 200F, which does not seem high enough for radiator applications. Yet it says it is for repairing radiators.

 

[Tadem]

I read the description for this kit. It says the maximum temperature it's rated for is 200F, which does not seem high enough for radiator applications. Yet it says it is for repairing radiators.

Still within operating temperatures. I used OBD scanner to track temperature after repair it hovered around 182F.

If you reach 200F its way to high. Something must be very wrong with cooling system at this point.

 

[FerrisBueller]

Still within operating temperatures. I used OBD scanner to track temperature after repair it hovered around 182F.

If you reach 200F its way to high. Something must be very wrong with cooling system at this point.

I thought I'd seen posts elsewhere with people seeing 195 - 205 F when towing. Of course, if towing, then might want to just get a replacement radiator instead of patching.

I've been thinking about preemptively patching mine even though no crack has started forming yet, just to get extra thickness in that location. I'm considering making a patch using JB Weld Plastic Bonder (higher psi and temperature ratings), along with a fiberglass pad.

 

[bloc]

I would study the kind of plastic the tank is made of and find a plastic epoxy/glue that works with it, and can deal with temperatures. I know for example the plastic of the recirc door is a particular kind that is difficult to get anything to bond with it.

Realistically that is probably what the above kit is designed for. Though when I see something peel off that clean to me it doesn’t seem like it bonded all that well. JB plastic is decent stuff but I have found types it wouldn’t stick to.

 

[4gotalot]

I have been checking the surface temp at the area of the crack and with ambient temps of 60-70f, not towing just daily driving and engine at operating temp, the radiator is 165 deg. Lets call these numbers "ideal laboratory conditions".

Most average hardware store epoxy will soften at around 150f, and high temp hardware store epoxy will soften at around 200f. My favorite one was a 3M aviation HT epoxy that had to be shipped in dry ice and used within 24 hours so the shipping cost was over 100 bucks.

3M 5200 softens at 190f and 1/8 of an inch thick min would be recommended for this application as per 3M marine adhesive specialist.

I will be using MAX HTE from Polymer Composites that hold its structural strength up to 390f. 4 oz glass weave to start, a couple of 8oz to fill the void and another 4oz on top. I just can't find any 4 oz around here. Its been a while since I have worked with glass and resin so its kind of fun project for me. Acetone, 220 grit, more acetone and hope it bonds.

 

[whereiswill]

I've gone about another 2,000 miles (which took me 3 months longer than the first 2,000 thanks to quarantine) and I still have no leaks.




I still have no complaints. My original post was from November and then I had an update in January and unless you hear from me again you can just assume that the repair continued to hold strong.[/MEDIA]

 

[grinchy]

I've gone about another 2,000 miles (which took me 3 months longer than the first 2,000 thanks to quarantine) and I still have no leaks.




I still have no complaints. My original post was from November and then I had an update in January and unless you hear from me again you can just assume that the repair continued to hold strong.[/MEDIA]

I've added a JB weld plastic bonder patch to my radiator. I have also been carrying some of the Plastic Stik in my 'drawer', as a general purpose adhesive for SHTF on any plastics in the car, including the radiator.

 

[TXMeatball]

Thanks for the updates. Just hit 120k on mine, checked it when I bought it at 116k and it hasn't changed. Think mine's small enough to patch like @whereiswill and @grinchy

 

[bf7527]

I have a picture of mine somewhere in the thread when I noticed it, around 127k. Put a $10 amazon patch on it and am about to roll over 130k. No signs of a leak or weakness yet. I do plan to replace the radiator, but this will do for now. Made a 500 mile round trip to the beach this past weekend and it did fine in the Mississippi summer. I was not towing anything, just hauling a 4 month old. This is not a daily driver so it does not get the heat cycle quite as frequently as others.

 

[CruiserfanCA]

well, @fasteddie2015 ask and ye shall receive! It's been at least two months and about 2,000 miles, so rather than post another boring picture, I went ahead and made a video of it. So enjoy.




I have no complaints. My original post was from November, so it's back a few pages if you want to see what I used. But if this continues to NOT leak I'm just gonna run it and save the $400 I would have spent on a new radiator.

I just did the same to my '11 Land Cruiser. I'll see how long it will last. Dealer wanted $1500.00 to replace it.

 

[bf7527]

I spoke too soon, today I popped the hood and notice a pink trickle coming from my patch. Must not have bonded well to the tank or I panicked during the mix and it didn’t mix well. Regardless I’ll be buying a radiator next week.

 

[psnyman]

I spoke too soon, today I popped the hood and notice a pink trickle coming from my patch. Must not have bonded well to the tank or I panicked during the mix and it didn’t mix well. Regardless I’ll be buying a radiator next week.

Has anybody had success getting a failed radiator like this replaced under warranty?