2007 LX 470 Head Gasket Blown

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Hi All. I'm looking for help/opinion from people who love 100 Series vehicles. I have a 2007 LX470 with a blown head gasket. Rare, I know, I've read the IH8Mud threads. This discovery was made just AFTER I paid to have a new radiator and new brakes installed all around. Of course. Currently in the shop we all know is best in the Pacific Northwest. I won't go deep into the reasons for the engine failure..but, like all things, it is an unfortunate combination/perfect storm.

Before I make the ultimate decision on what to do, I am posting here to see if anyone knows of a used engine out there for sale. The shop it is at is also attempting to source and it is proving more difficult than previously thought.

Similarly, if someone would like to take this project on, I would sell the car at a heavy discount. Seriously. Somebody out there has the skills to put this thing back into shape.

In so many ways I truly love this vehicle. Inside it is very clean. I love the comfort, the power, and the tape deck equally. And it pains me to admit that it is not the right car for my family and I.
It has not been an off road vehicle (despite the photos I posted where my son and I tried to make it look cool). It is our ski bus and our camping trip bus and it drives to soccer practices more than anything else.

It grew up in Canada and has the rust issues that plague Cruisers.

What would you do? (besides remove the running boards!)

Thank you for your input.


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Did you overheat it because the radiator failed?
 
Did you overheat it because the radiator failed?
Not exactly sure why it overheated when it did last summer. Previous owner had replaced the radiator with something that looked non-standard. I took it directly to a mechanic who said the T valve failed and replaced it on the spot. That was 6 months ago. Just after the holidays the truck sat for a week. It was quite cold. I drove it to the store (less than 3 miles) and all of a sudden the temp spiked and it smelled of coolant and strange noises were coming from what sounded like behind the air vents. I had it towed to the shop. And here we are.
 
If Tor says it’s the HG then I’d take his word. You should be able to source another 2UZ without issue, but it may not be from a landcruiser or LX.
 
How severe or what’s the extent of the damage when the head gasket failed? E.g. bent valves, piston ring/piston damage, crank shaft damage?

Reason for me asking is if the damage is isolated on the upper part (head), it’s still cheaper and more convenient to rebuild your current 2UZFE VVTi motor plus you get to inspect everything on it vs. rolling the dice with a a used/surplus motor.

I may be missing some things like your timeline on getting the LX up and running again and parts availability.
 
Have they verified it's the HG with a compression or leak down test? Your description sounds way more like heater t-'s.
Yes. Verified by a shop that ONLY works on Cruisers.

If Tor says it’s the HG then I’d take his word. You should be able to source another 2UZ without issue, but it may not be from a landcruiser or LX.
Turns out sourcing is impossible. There simply are none.

How severe or what’s the extent of the damage when the head gasket failed? E.g. bent valves, piston ring/piston damage, crank shaft damage?

Reason for me asking is if the damage is isolated on the upper part (head), it’s still cheaper and more convenient to rebuild your current 2UZFE VVTi motor plus you get to inspect everything on it vs. rolling the dice with a a used/surplus motor.

I may be missing some things like your timeline on getting the LX up and running again and parts availability.
Unclear what, if any, additional damage is as it hasn't yet been taken apart.

I am very close to putting it up for sale and allowing someone with time and skill to get a hell of a deal.
 
You can say who the shop is, no big mystery there. There was another recent thread on a motor replacement, connecting rod failure, they were able to source a motor fairly easily it seemed. Check that thread. Reminder that any 2UZ will work with a few bits off the current motor - so Tundras, 4Runners and Sequoia's are all fair game.
 
You can say who the shop is, no big mystery there. There was another recent thread on a motor replacement, connecting rod failure, they were able to source a motor fairly easily it seemed. Check that thread. Reminder that any 2UZ will work with a few bits off the current motor - so Tundras, 4Runners and Sequoia's are all fair game.
Thank you. And yup, 2006 and 2007 versions of that engine are nearly impossible. The one quote I got was for a rebuilt $5500 and it is 2 months out at best....and still it is missing a ton of what is needed.

I am out of my depth here!
 
You can say who the shop is, no big mystery there. There was another recent thread on a motor replacement, connecting rod failure, they were able to source a motor fairly easily it seemed. Check that thread. Reminder that any 2UZ will work with a few bits off the current motor - so Tundras, 4Runners and Sequoia's are all fair game.
It has to be Torfab. If they say it’s a HG, the. It’s a HG. I’m perplexed that they can’t source a 2UZ though - they’re everywhere.
 
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It has to be Torfab. If they say it’s a HG, the. It’s a HG. I’m perplexed that they can’t source a 2UZ though - they’re everywhere.
Yes. I spent a bunch of time on the phone with Tor today. It is true. A 2006-2007 2U7 is not out there through any of the dozen channels we've tried. Hence the reason for this thread...hoping to scare one up.
 
Just one search.

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I still find it odd how few people rebuild 2UZs. I would have it rebuilt if you can't source an engine. Assuming it's just the HG that went: polish the crank, new rod and main bearings (Toyota select-fit, assuming Toyota offers that on the 2UZ), mill the heads flat, basic valve job, replace the valve stem seals, new gaskets all around and BOOM, mostly refreshed motor.

The market is bananas, but I don't think you'll get much for a rusted 100 with a blown motor. 🤷
 
I still find it odd how few people rebuild 2UZs. I would have it rebuilt if you can't source an engine. Assuming it's just the HG that went: polish the crank, new rod and main bearings (Toyota select-fit, assuming Toyota offers that on the 2UZ), mill the heads flat, basic valve job, replace the valve stem seals, new gaskets all around and BOOM, mostly refreshed motor.

The market is bananas, but I don't think you'll get much for a rusted 100 with a blown motor. 🤷

This. My eyebrows were raised up until the point of 'the usual rust issues' from a Canada and NW vehicle.

Someone may want it for parts. OP, you may post up some pics of the undercarriage for some to decide if it's a worthwhile project. With a lot of chassis rot, you may just have a nice body and guts.
 
I did not see a 100 series VVT. The two with pictures are not, and VIN# removed. Re-manufactured are questionable as to parts used and workmanship.
I just see 2007 Land Cruiser as well as non-VVT years
 
I just see 2007 Land Cruiser as well as non-VVT years
Yeah, many yards list that way ((Land Cruiser OR LX470 (100 series)), because they're interchangeable with all 4.7L VVT. But the true VVT 100 series is pricey, since hard to find. Why so hard; IMHO it's because a 100 series has such a good resale valve, especially 06-07. Plus so few VVT 100 series made

Sequoia is probably the cheapest followed by Tundra, which are USA made. Many list as 100 series, to sell at higher price.

1st clue is VIN# gone,
2nd is dip stick wrong,
3rd plastic oil spout.
The block casting number on rear RH, can also be revealing.

It's also generally excepted, the USA built is not as good. That said; the 1 million mile Toyota, was a Tundra USA built. It was serviced by same dealership every 5K miles, and was 90% HWY miles in 5 yrs.

Any 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVT can be used. But only 100 series is a drop in. Others take considerable more labor.

Asking for issues, if:
VIN# missing
Intake manifold has been removed.
Has been outside exposed to the elements (rain or snow).
Unknown mileage.
Unknown service history.

9 out of 10 engine sellers, give false info as to history of engine.

Buying engine, needs same DD, as buy any vehicle.
 
I agree that VVTi 2UZ can be hard to find, but they are out there. You can also rebuild the engine (not the cheapest option, IMHO).

Why can't they just replace the HG and re-deck the heads if needed?
 
When I went through an issue last year, this writing was on the wall. I’ve stated this elsewhere and will here too fwiw. My mechanic broke a cam during a cam seal repair on an 06vvti. No new camshafts were left in the entire world (possibly in Russia but could not verify) for sale. The part became discontinued from Toyota during the wait and the supposed twenty units coming to the US seemingly never arrived. In that thread I mentioned having to go to a rebuilder and overpaying for used parts, knowing those would also disappear. Rebuilders buy these up. That gentleman said parts were impossible to source to rebuild. I only found one motor for sale at that time. I almost bought it just to have.

These vehicles last so there are not lots of used parts...

Until the wave of aftermarket hits this vehicle, this is the beginning of a very hard time for big repairs. Couple this with greater sales demand on the vehicle also means parts that were sitting around are now being scooped up.

I’ve even done this when I see that there is one part left left In the UAE. I buy now because I may never be able to again. This is for items like window trim or windshield trim or metal containing parts that may not come back anytime soon.

In my industry I saw the s***tiest cheapest plastic become unavailable. That set the tone for the reality of anything of quality being manufactured for reasonable cost for the next few years at least.

Pm me if you’d like the name of the person I found my part. I have no affiliation other than the owner understood my plight and I paid more than a new price for a used part...(the mechanic did pay at least)

Good luck. I understand. People are going to start to buy these to part out and lots of rusty trucks are going to rise in value if the engines are clean.
 
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I came to the LC world from the BMW world where overheating and blown engines (on M52/M54 engines) were rampant due to plastic cooling pump impellers and other plastic parts in the cooling system.

The 2UZ does not have these design faults. BUT I'm wondering if the coolant temp gage is "buffered" like on the BMW's, where it would stay in the middle until the engine was WAY too hot, then quickly jump to the hot side and light up the red LED. You had no warning.

Modern engines vary coolant temp within a range. I've read that the dealers did not want customers coming in and complaining about "temp needle moving around", so they LIE to you by falsely showing a perfectly stable coolant temp - UNTIL IT IS TOO LATE.

One thing that helped was a digital gage, hooked up to OBDII, displaying the coolant temp. If it was running too hot you would notice. That gave you some time to get off the road and shut down. On the BMW's I had the P3Cars unit.

On my 2006 LC I have the ScanGage II.

Was this (no warning of rising engine temp) a factor in your engine damage?
 

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