2006 LX470 Front Wheel(s) Suddenly Locked Up (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 22, 2020
Threads
1
Messages
10
Location
Denver, CO
2006 LX470 87K miles.

Driving down a straight road about 40MPH yesterday and suddenly a loud grumbling noise coming from the front end and the front nose dived. Immediately pulled over into a parking spot and investigated.

Some notes and background:
  • Check Engine Light + VSC Trac + VSC Off lights are illumiated as of a 5 days ago. I was thinking it was a gas cap sealing issue and have ordered a replacement cap. No drivability issues associated with lights. Pulled codes a few days ago and it was P04030. Reset the error codes and they returned about 2 days later.
  • Noise sounded as if metal to metal.
  • Noticeable resistance to movement.
  • Truck goes into all gears without issue, including 4WL, 4WN and 4WH. Diff lock engages and disengages without issue.
  • I can move the truck forward and backwards about 8 inches until the front wheel(s) get stopped.
  • Nothing visually wrong externally.
  • When the tow truck driver was pulling the truck up onto the bed the rear wheels were turning freely and the fronts were grabbing. From the looks of things I have a feeling it is the passenger side.
  • I pulled the ABS relays to ensure there wasn't any malfunction there without any change. I can overcome the locking but it takes some horsepower and the locking appears to be coming from the axle.
I'm going to pull the passenger front wheel and investigate. Wanted to see if anyone had a gut feeling on the issue and associated fixes. I read a few places about a failed snap ring. Going to look there first. Thanks in advance for any help.
 
If the snap ring on the outboard end of the CV failed it shouldn't lock up that wheel i wouldn't think.

It sounds like the calipers stuck on or something or a physical failure. I'd bet something like a caliper bolt came off and things ain't sitting or attached where it should be up front (metal on metal sound).
 
" can move the truck forward and backwards about 8 inches until the front wheel(s) get stopped." Might indicate something inside the differential.

Can you lift each wheel and spin? Keep the transfer case neutral and park brake applied and wheels choked.
 
I just pulled the front passenger wheel. No issues with the caliper. Definitely a drive-train issue as I can move the front wheel around just fine until the axle shaft gets stopped. I see a few drops of gear oil on the ground now. Thinking the differential may have crapped out

Is this a common problem with these rigs? I've owned two 4Runners with over 300K on both, of course they don't have the same drive-train, and never had any issues. Purchased this low mileage LX because of the Land Cruiser lineage hoping for the best of the best in reliability.
 
I just pulled the front passenger wheel. No issues with the caliper. Definitely a drive-train issue as I can move the front wheel around just fine until the axle shaft gets stopped. I see a few drops of gear oil on the ground now. Thinking the differential may have crapped out

Is this a common problem with these rigs? I've owned two 4Runners with over 300K on both, of course they don't have the same drive-train, and never had any issues. Purchased this low mileage LX because of the Land Cruiser lineage hoping for the best of the best in reliability.
Oh man that sucks, I was hoping that was unlikely since you were just driving straight down the road. That's crazy it popped when not even off road or losing traction at the front tires.

This has happened before documented on here, but seems to happen when front wheels are spinning and slipping then suddenly grab traction.

Good news is you can pull the drive flanges up front and have a RWD truck until you can fix it.
 
Oh man that sucks, I was hoping that was unlikely since you were just driving straight down the road. That's crazy it popped when not even off road or losing traction at the front tires.
Yea, this thing is a family car and is babied. Never been off road from the looks of things. I've owned it for about a year. We've put about 12K miles on it in that time.

Anyone have any good info on repair/replacement of the front differential? Want to get my options sorted.
 
Oh man that sucks, I was hoping that was unlikely since you were just driving straight down the road. That's crazy it popped when not even off road or losing traction at the front tires.

This has happened before documented on here, but seems to happen when front wheels are spinning and slipping then suddenly grab traction.

Good news is you can pull the drive flanges up front and have a RWD truck until you can fix it.
Yes, diffs, CV's can break when free spinning wheels suddenly gets a grip. It can also break if someone has already been in the diff and didn't use OEM parts, low torque on bolts or simply an unserved diff.
 
Yea, this thing is a family car and is babied. Never been off road from the looks of things. I've owned it for about a year. We've put about 12K miles on it in that time.

Anyone have any good info on repair/replacement of the front differential? Want to get my options sorted.

I'd search online junkyards, I think its car-part.com . Buy a whole new front diff.....unless you off road a bit then this is a great excuse to upgrade to a locker and re-gear to beefier components.

Wasn't it the 01 + that has the stronger 4 pinion front diff? Surprised this one blew up.
 
Yea, this thing is a family car and is babied. Never been off road from the looks of things. I've owned it for about a year. We've put about 12K miles on it in that time.

Anyone have any good info on repair/replacement of the front differential? Want to get my options sorted.
If my front diff ever goes out, I'm putting an ARB locker in its place. If you have no desire for that, I'd seek out a used diff. The front diffs are a potential weak point in the 100 series. I don't think the diff is any weaker than other IFS SUVs, but since these are full time 4WD that diff is always under load.

If budget is less of a concern than longevity, I'd get new OEM parts from McGeorge or Partsouq.
 
If my front diff ever goes out, I'm putting an ARB locker in its place. If you have no desire for that, I'd seek out a used diff. The front diffs are a potential weak point in the 100 series. I don't think the diff is any weaker than other IFS SUVs, but since these are full time 4WD that diff is always under load.

If budget is less of a concern than longevity, I'd get new OEM parts from McGeorge or Partsouq.
I can certainly see how they would be the weak link when off-road but man this thing is only driven on plain jane roadways with my kids in the car. Nothing even close to off-road or hard driving. Sucks.

Anyone have a good source for the service intervals and required maintenance for the front diff? I want to make sure this never happens again.

Longevity is my number one concern. I'll take a look at the OEM parts, thanks for the part sources.
 
Man, I'd really love to know what failed in there.

Surely the ring gear didn't break teeth off just driving straight down the road?
 
I can certainly see how they would be the weak link when off-road but man this thing is only driven on plain jane roadways with my kids in the car. Nothing even close to off-road or hard driving. Sucks.

Anyone have a good source for the service intervals and required maintenance for the front diff? I want to make sure this never happens again.

Longevity is my number one concern. I'll take a look at the OEM parts, thanks for the part sources.
It is a bummer for sure. Normal Colorado driving can kill it just as easy as off-roading, IMO. A little patch of ice in the parking lot can cause a jolt to the driveline just like lifting a tire while wheeling. Add in some skipped oil changes or a single deep water crossing...

If you're concerned about longevity and maintenance, I'd start sending an oil sample with every oil change to Blackstone. That can give you a warning if you have excessive wear on the metal surfaces. I'm not sure on oil change intervals, but I recall 30k being a good starting point. Again, Blackstone can give you a much better clue after sending in a sample.

If reliability is the concern, new OEM parts all the way. You can give Slee a call. They're in Golden and probably one of the most capable 100-series shops in the country. I'm sure Christo can add some insight as I bet he's seen more dead 100 diffs than anyone around. @sleeoffroad
 
I would call Georg Esterer at Cruiser Brothers to get some ideas.

209-475-8808

 
This may be an opportune time to look at a part-time 4wd conversion since the diff will be out anyways
 
You can give Slee a call. They're in Golden and probably one of the most capable 100-series shops in the country. I'm sure Christo can add some insight as I bet he's seen more dead 100 diffs than anyone around. @sleeoffroad
Thanks I will do that. They are about 20 minutes away.


I would call Georg Esterer at Cruiser Brothers to get some ideas.

209-475-8808
Thanks for the contact. I'll give them a call.
 
Thanks all for the responses they are very much appreciated. I'm checking through all the links and suggestions. Leaning towards an OEM replacement at the moment that I'll install.

So now that I'm looking through the front diff stories on here I am shocked. It appears as though the front diff may be the single biggest issue with this model outside of the AHC (replaced a hard line on the driver side in that system a few weeks after purchasing the vehicle).

I'm going to do a full investigation tomorrow. I'd like to remove this weakness from the drive-train but I'm guessing this occurred due to a low oil level which would happen regardless of the driving situation. In my short search thus far I don't see many instances of this failure when driving normally and don't want to blame the design when low oil level could easily trash any diff. I didn't see any oil dripping from the truck since I've purchased but interestingly enough (or not) I walked around to the driveway this afternoon where it was parked before the destruction yesterday and there was a small patch of oil on the ground. So she was leaking oil from somewhere shortly before the failure. Admittedly I didn't check the front diff oil level as I should have after purchasing the truck. Bummer and lesson learned.

Is there an off-the-shelf setup that allows running in two wheel drive and then switch to 4-wheel when needed? Seems that would improve gas mileage slightly as a side benefit. Again, any experience would be appreciated.
 
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Sorry to hear about this. I have an 06 too and I hope this doesn’t happen to me. My guess is a seized ring and pinion gear as well if the hub flange does not have any damage. If in case this happens to me I will highly consider the part time conversion.
 

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