2004 LC A/C relay part question (1 Viewer)

[Trukdiver]

Hopefully a quick question. I had a shop replace my AC compressor and drier. It was leaking and spewing. I know it was beat.

After doing that and charging to proper levels, the AC still cycles off after a few seconds. Tech says it must be the relay and told me about the big swap of the whole box.

Is the part in question 82720-60081?

I read other threads here but I was still not 100% sure for my model year. It's a big nut so I wanted to confirm. Thank you.

 

[Trukdiver]

As far as I can tell, the part I mentioned above is not right. I think it could be for a later model year than my 2004. He's quoting $1400 for replacement. I think thats not quite right for my situation. If anyone in the know has moment to weigh in, I would greatly appreciate the help.

 

[NE Snowman]

I would stick your VIN in partsouq and find the box in question and check the PN.

 

[Trukdiver]

I would stick your VIN in partsouq and find the box in question and check the PN.

Thanks for the reply. I couldn't see a place to include a VIN on partsouq, but of course I know my model/etc. The issue I'm struggling with is understanding what "box" I need that is related to the AC relay. Apparently this car doesn't have replaceable relays (???). I mean, it LOOKS like a box of replaceable relays to me, but what do I know. I think what he told me is that it needs a fuse box. There is nothing called "fuse box". I think he might be talking about the part called BLOCK ASSY, ENGINE ROOM JUNCTION.

If it is that part that has to be replaced, parsouq says 82720-60070 which does not appear to be offered by my local toyota parts dealer.
Toyatapartsdeal says 82720-60080 for my year. They have it. Its $116.88 (dirt cheap).
My local toyota website says the part is 82720-60081. They have it. Its $1,041.20 (tenfold difference). Toyotaparts deal says 82720-60081 is for 2005-2007. Partsouq has no record of part 82720-60081.

I came hoping first to confirm I'm even looking for the right box and then understanding what part number I am trying to source.

 

[Malleus]

VIN goes here:

 

[Malleus]

First, is your "tech" a Toyota service technician at a dealership? If he is, get a second opnion. If he isn't, go somewhere else and don't go back.

Second, you're in the wrong area to fix your A/C problem. The part you're referring to is the first (primary) fuse block for the entire truck. Don't touch it.

Yes, the truck has replaceable relays. They're all over the interior side of the dash and front trim panels; but you need to use your VIN to ensure you get the correct part numbers; knowing your model won't help you.

The PartSouq section you need is the electrical section. Scroll through the "Switches and Relays" fiches. All the parts you talking about are in there. Whether those parts are actually the parts you need are another question.

When you say the A/C "cycles off", do you mean the fan stops, or the compressor in the engine compartment stops spinning?

If the symptom is the fan (blower) you might (big assumption there) need a new relay:

BTW, the image is for my 2000 LX470, and is not intended to illustrate the part you need, just where is it on the fiche. The relay may be the same for your model, but you won't know unless you search using your VIN. This is not a guarantee that the problem is the blower relay, you need to go through the troubleshooting procedure to find the problem.

If, on the other hand, your problem is the compressor, we need to be having a different discussion. There are tests that have to be preformed before you "know" the compressor is bad.

 

[Malleus]

I just read your other post, on this same problem. It's a little more clear now. FWIW, if you're going to use multiple threads for advice (which is perfectly OK, and there are valid reasons for doing so, such as posting in a old thread, as you did), it's helpful if you acknowledge the fact so that someone trying to help you can follow your various posts.

If you're getting fault messages on the NAV/touchscreen interface, and you know the mechanical components are good, you need to have someone go through the system troubleshooting procedure. It's in the FSM. Both the 2004 FSM and EWD are in the Resources section. Thank @OGBeno (Onur) when you get the chance.

The A/C system diagnosis troubleshooting procedures are on pages 1300-1375.

You do not need a new fuse box. Run away from whomever is giving you advice and find someone who knows how to work on a Land Cruiser.

 

[Trukdiver]

I just read your other post, on this same problem. It's a little more clear now. FWIW, if you're going to use multiple threads for advice (which is perfectly OK, and there are valid reasons for doing so, such as posting in a old thread, as you did), it's helpful if you acknowledge the fact so that someone trying to help you can follow your various posts.

If you're getting fault messages on the NAV/touchscreen interface, and you know the mechanical components are good, you need to have someone go through the system troubleshooting procedure. It's in the FSM. Both the 2004 FSM and EWD are in the Resources section. Thank @OGBeno (Onur) when you get the chance.

The A/C system diagnosis troubleshooting procedures are on pages 1300-1375.

You do not need a new fuse box. Run away from whomever is giving you advice and find someone who knows how to work on a Land Cruiser.

Thank you for the reply. To answer a few questions:

After the diagnosis and "solve" I was presented at the shop, I did take my truck back on Friday. I may not know how to solve it myself, but I was uncomfortable enough to be underconfident in the shop for this situation. The shop is not a Toyota shop and the tech is not a Toyota tech. It is a good shop that, I think, is in over its heads here. I guess that makes them a bad shop, but I generally follow the rule that if the repair I am requesting is something I could personally do, then it is routine enough for a general tech to do. I was ok with offloading the installation of a compressor.

There are no viable Toyota techs in my area that I am aware of. There are two dealerships very close by. I imagine someone in either might be good, but the management practices are so slimy that I will not set foot in them. Both of them, at some point, have failed to repair my truck for various things. I was repeatedly lied to and told to buy things I didn't need. Then I was told my truck was so far gone (at 80K miles) that "Honey, you should just go out in the showroom and pick yourself another pretty car. The new Prius has such pretty colors and the Highlander can handle a lot of groceries." Yes, that happened. And the ultimate "solve" in that case was a piece of hose from NAPA that cost me $0.47. It was diagnosed at the local high school polytech where I am an adult community continuing ed student. It sounds like a joke, but its not. At least I know how to handle most mechanical issues now. I only have spidey sense on electrical issues, but no other skills.

So, I'm stuck with what I have. Mix of independent shops, my own brain, a copy of the FSM, and MUD.

I ran through the initial diagnostics using the FSM. I only got code 00 which is normal. The compressor immediately responds and turns on when I press the button in the cabin. The car starts to cool. Eight seconds later, consistently, the compressor stops spinning and shuts off. It does not cycle back on automatically, but will come on immediately if I turn the AC off in the cabin and turn it back on. The blower seems fine. I AM getting the message "Check Air Conditioner" on the NAV screen. The light on the AC button in the cabin is not flashing. I checked the pressure in the system using my manifold gauge set. It seems to be optimal, so its not that. From what I can tell, I now either need a specialty code reader or I need to start pulling parts off and bench testing them. What I really need is a Toyota technician I can trust.

 

[Malleus]

Man, that situation sucks. I feel for you; I thought we got past all that crap years ago.

Good news is: you seem to have a handle on the way to get the problem(s) solved, even if you can't do it yourself. If I had a 100 with NAV handy I could be more helpful, but unfortunately, I don't.

As far as code readers go, a bluetooth OBDII reader can be had for about $20; paired with a phone app, you have all the tech you need for most jobs. Just be aware that most don't work well with Apple stuff. If you feel really adventurous, you could download a free copy of Techstream (which is what the dealerships use) and go to town. You'll need a cable to get from your laptop to the OBDII plug, but it too is only about $20 (from memory, it's been a while since I bought mine).

I have a feeling that, given what you've shared, you are correct that you are at the point where you have to start testing individual components. As someone in the other thread you posted a question in said, you might have luck swapping the NAV head unit. That wouldn't be my first choice, unless I just fell into a good deal on one I felt I could trust.

There should be someone in the NJ clubhouse that can help you find a competent repair shop. @mingles is nearby (well, my definition of nearby, anyway; NC is a bit larger than NJ) and although he has an 80 and not a 100, he might be able to point you in the right direction. @jonheld (also in your area) is an electrical Merlin, and might be able to offer some valuable insight.

@2001LC sees a lot of 100s, since he appears to go through them like snacks. He might have some insight on the problem. It could be as simple as a bad relay, or A/C amplifier. That would keep you out of NAV diagnosis territory. Those two would also be (fairly) easy to rule out.

 

[mingles]

@Trukdiver - What part of NJ are you in?

If you are local to Trenton/Princeton area, my current go-to repair shop is Union Line Garage located in Pennington. While I still do all the work on my 80 myself, Union Line has done work on all our other vehicles, including Toyotas. While they work on anything, they specialize in European and Japanese makes. The other day I saw a JDM Mitsubishi Delica in their lot

What I like about them is that they are competent and ridiculously honest . They are happy to point out things that need to be addressed but just as willing to say either, this doesn't need to be addressed now, or this is beyond our skill set . Not the cheapest, but honesty and skill trumps cheap in my experience.

 

[Trukdiver]

Man, that situation sucks. I feel for you; I thought we got past all that crap years ago.

Good news is: you seem to have a handle on the way to get the problem(s) solved, even if you can't do it yourself. If I had a 100 with NAV handy I could be more helpful, but unfortunately, I don't.

As far as code readers go, a bluetooth OBDII reader can be had for about $20; paired with a phone app, you have all the tech you need for most jobs. Just be aware that most don't work well with Apple stuff. If you feel really adventurous, you could download a free copy of Techstream (which is what the dealerships use) and go to town. You'll need a cable to get from your laptop to the OBDII plug, but it too is only about $20 (from memory, it's been a while since I bought mine).

I have a feeling that, given what you've shared, you are correct that you are at the point where you have to start testing individual components. As someone in the other thread you posted a question in said, you might have luck swapping the NAV head unit. That wouldn't be my first choice, unless I just fell into a good deal on one I felt I could trust.

There should be someone in the NJ clubhouse that can help you find a competent repair shop. @mingles is nearby (well, my definition of nearby, anyway; NC is a bit larger than NJ) and although he has an 80 and not a 100, he might be able to point you in the right direction. @jonheld (also in your area) is an electrical Merlin, and might be able to offer some valuable insight.

@2001LC sees a lot of 100s, since he appears to go through them like snacks. He might have some insight on the problem. It could be as simple as a bad relay, or A/C amplifier. That would keep you out of NAV diagnosis territory. Those two would also be (fairly) easy to rule out.

Thank you. Its OK. The guys at the independent shops are incredibly supportive and think its awesome that I am learning. One guy even gave me a handful of his personal tools to keep when I was learning how to do drum brakes on another car. On the bright side, if that hadn't happened, I would have never gotten annoyed enough to spend the last 5 years learning. Back then, I couldn't have picked a caliper out of a line up. Things are different now and I'm very glad for it.

I didn't know techstream was free. I love free! I have a code reader. I thought it needed to a special Toyota diagnostic tool reader. Still very green on the electronic part. I have a multimeter and I just bought this awesome PowerProbe tool. I don't know how to use it fully yet, but I'm excited about it.

I did work with a shop when I was in Utah, State Auto. They were so good. NC wouldn't be a problem at all because I have literally been considering driving to Utah! Ha ha.

Again, thank you so much.

 

[Trukdiver]

@Trukdiver - What part of NJ are you in?

If you are local to Trenton/Princeton area, my current go-to repair shop is Union Line Garage located in Pennington. While I still do all the work on my 80 myself, Union Line has done work on all our other vehicles, including Toyotas. While they work on anything, they specialize in European and Japanese makes. The other day I saw a JDM Mitsubishi Delica in their lot

What I like about them is that they are competent and ridiculously honest . They are happy to point out things that need to be addressed but just as willing to say either, this doesn't need to be addressed now, or this is beyond our skill set . Not the cheapest, but honesty and skill trumps cheap in my experience.

Thank you! I am in Clinton Township, so its only about 40ish minutes. Straight shot down 31. I am so grateful for the reference. I don't mind paying for skill. In the long run, its much cheaper!

 

[mingles]

Thank you! I am in Clinton Township, so its only about 40ish minutes. Straight shot down 31. I am so grateful for the reference. I don't mind paying for skill. In the long run, its much cheaper!

Check your PMs.

 

[Malleus]

Thank you. Its OK. The guys at the independent shops are incredibly supportive and think its awesome that I am learning. One guy even gave me a handful of his personal tools to keep when I was learning how to do drum brakes on another car. On the bright side, if that hadn't happened, I would have never gotten annoyed enough to spend the last 5 years learning. Back then, I couldn't have picked a caliper out of a line up. Things are different now and I'm very glad for it.

I didn't know techstream was free. I love free! I have a code reader. I thought it needed to a special Toyota diagnostic tool reader. Still very green on the electronic part. I have a multimeter and I just bought this awesome PowerProbe tool. I don't know how to use it fully yet, but I'm excited about it.

I did work with a shop when I was in Utah, State Auto. They were so good. NC wouldn't be a problem at all because I have literally been considering driving to Utah! Ha ha.

Again, thank you so much.

FWIW, here's the definitive Techstream thread

 

[arthbkins]

Thanks for the reply. I couldn't see a place to include a VIN on partsouq, but of course I know my model/etc. The issue I'm struggling with is understanding what "box" I need that is related to the AC relay. Apparently this car doesn't have replaceable relays (???). I mean, it LOOKS like a box of replaceable relays to me, but what do I know. I think what he told me is that it needs a fuse box. There is nothing called "fuse box". I think he might be talking about the part called BLOCK ASSY, ENGINE ROOM JUNCTION.

If it is that part that has to be replaced, parsouq says 82720-60070 which does not appear to be offered by my local toyota parts dealer.
Toyatapartsdeal says 82720-60080 for my year. They have it. Its $116.88 (dirt cheap).
My local toyota website says the part is 82720-60081. They have it. Its $1,041.20 (tenfold difference). Toyotaparts deal says 82720-60081 is for 2005-2007. Partsouq has no record of part 82720-60081.

I came hoping first to confirm I'm even looking for the right box and then understanding what part number I am trying to source.

@Trukdiver : just checking in if you ever ended up buying a new fuse box and if so from where? I do think Toyota part number 82720-60080 is the correct number for the main fuse/relay box in the engine bay for newer 100 series (2003 or newer). I noticed the same thing as you, that Toyatapartsdeal has a much lower price for this ($116.88) vs most everyone else online which is $780 or higher. So just curious if you ended up sourcing a new fuse box and if so from where and how much did it cost?

 

[Trukdiver]

@Trukdiver : just checking in if you ever ended up buying a new fuse box and if so from where? I do think Toyota part number 82720-60080 is the correct number for the main fuse/relay box in the engine bay for newer 100 series (2003 or newer). I noticed the same thing as you, that Toyatapartsdeal has a much lower price for this ($116.88) vs most everyone else online which is $780 or higher. So just curious if you ended up sourcing a new fuse box and if so from where and how much did it cost?

I went with the one at Toyotapartsdeal for $116.88. It matched the old part and works flawlessly. Its kinda crazy that the parts catalogs didn't agree on that. I figured it was worth the chance of buying the cheaper one and seeing if it would work. Sorry I should have reported back!