2003 LC New Key turns ignition but not door locks (1 Viewer)

[turnloose]

Just ordered a new remote fob key. Got it cut at the local TruValue and programmed as master and programmed remote fob with no problems. The key works great to start the LC but will NOT turn a single door lock. Anyone with similar luck???
I know I should be able to lock/unlock with fob, but if the battery dies or LC battery dies I could be potentially locked out.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Might need new tumblers inside the locks. I went through similar issue, and actually was locked out for a few days after the battery died.

 

[turnloose]

But I still have 1 key that work all the locks including the ignition?

 

[ramangain]

Sounds like a crappy cut of your blank

 

[Drunken Ira Hayes]

My first guess would be worn lock cylinders in the doors. It’s not super uncommon on older vehicles, fresh keys sometimes don’t mesh with worn cylinders. You could try another blank and cut, but if that doesn’t work it’s likely the cylinders.

 

[97 AZ LC]

My first guess would be worn lock cylinders in the doors. It’s not super uncommon on older vehicles, fresh keys sometimes don’t mesh with worn cylinders. You could try another blank and cut, but if that doesn’t work it’s likely the cylinders.

Or the other way around, worn ignition cylinder working with a sloppy key. When people use the remote the door cylinders don't get much use or wear. They need a good key which you won't get replicating an old worn one. I'm guessing that if you ordered a key from the dealer it would work in the doors.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

I'm guessing that if you ordered a key from the dealer it would work in the doors.

Or had one cut at the dealer based on the VIN. Same thing right?

 

[Drunken Ira Hayes]

Or the other way around, worn ignition cylinder working with a sloppy key. When people use the remote the door cylinders don't get much use or wear. They need a good key which you won't get replicating an old worn one. I bet if you ordered a key from the dealer it would work in the doors.

Possibly, it would partially depend upon how the new blank was cut though. If it was a fresh cut using the key code, then it would be a much sharper cut than the old worn one that is working for the OP. If it was cut using a duplication method, basically tracing the old worn key, this could be the case.

Forgive my ignorance here as I have an 05 LX, but is the 03 Cruiser key cut on the outside or is it a center channel cut like the LX? If it’s a center channel, it can’t be cut on most conventional tracer machines by duplicating an existing key. The other strange thing here is that the OP’s old worn key works in all of the cylinders whereas the new one does not. This would suggest the door cylinders are worn enough to work with an old key but are having issues with the new one.

If the new blank was cut on a tracer, that could likely be the issue as it is very difficult to duplicate worn and rounded edges. Your statement about the ignition cylinder being more worn than the door cylinders would definitely apply in this scenario and would explain why the new key works in the column but not the doors.

OP, was the key cut on a tracer or cut by code? Was it an OE blank or aftermarket? I’m a Parts Director for European manufacturers and have seen many aftermarket blanks not cut or work properly.

 

[turnloose]

Possibly, it would partially depend upon how the new blank was cut though. If it was a fresh cut using the key code, then it would be a much sharper cut than the old worn one that is working for the OP. If it was cut using a duplication method, basically tracing the old worn key, this could be the case.

Forgive my ignorance here as I have an 05 LX, but is the 03 Cruiser key cut on the outside or is it a center channel cut like the LX? If it’s a center channel, it can’t be cut on most conventional tracer machines by duplicating an existing key. The other strange thing here is that the OP’s old worn key works in all of the cylinders whereas the new one does not. This would suggest the door cylinders are worn enough to work with an old key but are having issues with the new one.

If the new blank was cut on a tracer, that could likely be the issue as it is very difficult to duplicate worn and rounded edges. Your statement about the ignition cylinder being more worn than the door cylinders would definitely apply in this scenario and would explain why the new key works in the column but not the doors.

OP, was the key cut on a tracer or cut by code? Was it an OE blank or aftermarket? I’m a Parts Director for European manufacturers and have seen many aftermarket blanks not cut or work properly.

Tracer cut, aftermarket key.

 

[jerryb]

what 97 az lc said is correct. worn key, worn ignition, newer door cylinders, doesn't work.
hardly ever used key, worn ignition, newer door cylinders, works fine.
Use your best key to make another master and don't use it. Make another copy as master to use as your everyday key.
side by side you can see the differences. Samr thing happened to me except
I tested before true value made copies. At least it's cheap though, right? The only catch is you must have a good key that works everything.

 

[97 AZ LC]

Or had one cut at the dealer based on the VIN. Same thing right?

Yes, a factory code cut key rather than a duplicate. And you've really got to watch those aftermarket blanks. I had an Amazon blank that had a tiny groove on the side edge that wasn't supposed to be there, and it messed things up, but not for every cylinder strangely. I can't remember the exact details.

 

[Drunken Ira Hayes]

Yes, a factory code cut key rather than a duplicate. And you've really got to watch those aftermarket blanks. I had an Amazon blank that had a tiny groove on the side edge that wasn't supposed to be there, and it messed things up, but not for every cylinder strangely. I can't remember the exact details.

^This. I would suggest getting an OE blank cut to code at the Dealer of your choice. This should work in the doors and, as long as it isn’t excessively worn, the ignition as well. As Jerry suggested, If you have a better key that hasn’t been used as frequently, you could try having that one duplicated at the hardware store also.

 

[ramangain]

I still vote a crappy key cut; only because I had the exact same thing happen to me.

 

[turnloose]

I found an old post saying the key code is located on the passenger door lock. Can anyone confirm this?

 

[JunkCrzr89]

I found an old post saying the key code is located on the passenger door lock. Can anyone confirm this?

Never seen it. Why? Just go to the dealer with your VIN...

 

[turnloose]

Trying to bypass my local stealership. They tend to be twice as much for parts as what can be ordered from McGeorge and others. Most local automotive locksmith can cut directly from key code if you have it, but Toyota charges independents a hefty charge if they want it from the VIN.

 

[ramangain]

Wait, let me understand this now. You got a blank and had it cut at a non-Toyota dealership place. It doesn't work properly. Now you want to try again, rather than get it done correctly at the dealership? Price be damned, but this makes little sense to me to ensure it is correct.

 

[boca1]

bad cut, I had two blanks cut off a photo on ebay, one worked on ignition and doors the other only ignition. He resent a second and now they both work

 

[97 AZ LC]

I think JunkCrzr89 was saying to take your VIN (with proof of ownership) to the dealer to try to get the key code at no charge, then you can take it to the locksmith that says he can cut from the code.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

I think JunkCrzr89 was saying to take your VIN (with proof of ownership) to the dealer to try to get the key code at no charge, then you can take it to the locksmith that says he can cut from the code.

My thinking is more inline with @ramangain. Instead of potentially pissing away more money on locksmith cuts that may not work, getting the dealer to cut one based on the VIN is probably the wisest choice (and maybe the most cost effective at this point).