2003 brake oil leak while changing brake pad, what went wrong?

[ct005ke002]

I was trying to change brake pad because I found that my caliper is grinding the rotor. While changing the brake pad I removed 2 screws 17 and 14mm on the bottom of the caliper then I started to remove the top one and clips and pins..
Then brake oil started to leak and when I placed the new pad, I found my old pads was still very good. I wonder why I grind my caliper and why the brake oil leaks?

I guess I need to call the tow truck if I can't figure that out.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

I can't remember the size on the front brakes, but the two bolts to remove the window on the caliper are the same size. I think they're 14mm and the whole caliper is 17mm. I think you undid the brake line, hence the brake fluid.

How did you find that your caliper was grinding the rotor? By sound? You could have had a piece of gravel stuck in there or they could be down to the wear indicators. You'll still have a few mm of brake material left when the wear indicators start squealing.

If you opened up the brake line then you'll need to bleed the brakes.

 

[ct005ke002]

I saw the rotor touching the edge of the caliper and I saw metal wear while the wheel is still in place.
I removed both 14 and 17 mm screws and oil started to leak. while I was trying to put the pad back in I broke a clip 47748A (no.2), the clip that holds the pins. I called a dealer in town one quoted me $8.25 each and the other dealer quoted me $1.75. These dealers are within 15 miles!

 

[JML403]

I thought my pads in the front were bad last week from a quick visual through the wheel also. Went grabbed new pads, took the wheel off to change and without touching anything realized the pads were fine. Sounds like thats exactly what happened to you, but I realized it before touching a bolt. I believe and correct me someone if im wrong, but its just the design of the caliper and how close it sits to the rotor that if your used to other vehicles you would think they are low from a quick visual... Uneven pad and rotor wear caused from whatever, is making your noise(most likely riding them).

 

[ct005ke002]

I got the repair manual and found out that I may have damaged the bleeder plug. I used a rubber hammer to slam the outer caliper sideway and tried to swing the caliper upward. I did not notice that there are 2 bolt on top and 2 bolt on the bottom. So I may have damaged that part causing leak.

The other reason could be the piston seals leak oil while I was banging the caliper.

I need to take out the whole caliper and inspect.

Does anyone know how large is the lock nut and where do I find a socket for that?

 

[Trunk Monkey]

You can remove the caliper without removing the rotor, it's just two 17mm's. If you do need to remove the rotor, it's a 54mm. You can sub in a 2 1/8" socket or get a hub socket from someplace like Cruiser Outfitters.

 

[ct005ke002]

Does anyone know what is the best method to remove the Flange?

My outer caliper is ginding the rotor.

I found out one of the gasket between is broken, that may cause insufficient pressure to the outer rotor and causing it grinding.

Any thoughts?

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Get your BFH. Careful when the cone washers pop out, they can shoot off and disappear.

 

[ct005ke002]

Tried it but no luck with my strength. I need an air chisel for that I believe. Are those rings really reusable?
According to the manual the snap rings are Non-reusable parts.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Don't hit the vertical face, hit the top of the ring. You may really have to wail on it. They're just held in by compression and the vibration/shock of hitting the flange shakes them loose. The cone washers will pop out and are reusable. The ring around the axle stub is resuable to, unless you bend it all to hell.

 

[ct005ke002]

Thanks! I finally opened with an air chisel. I found that thr 54mm lock nut was loose and the washer behind the lock nut was damaged. That might cause the rotor was not hold in place. I am planing to bring the rotor to resurface. I have a hard time take out the 5 17mm screw.

About the gasket, it is in back order and won't until 2 weeks later.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

If you're talking about the bends on the star washer, they're supposed to be there. That keeps the nuts from turning, one tab bent forward and one backwards.

When you put things back together the load you put on those 54mm nuts is fairly important. You can use something like a fish scale to set the poundage on the hub and the FSM has a whole procedure laid out for tightening and loosening the two nuts.

 

[ct005ke002]

You mean the spring tension gauge. I need to get one of those. also a soft jaw vice.
I found what you mention in the Suspension and Axle section of the manual
Thanks

 

[Jim_Chow]

I was trying to change brake pad because I found that my caliper is grinding the rotor. While changing the brake pad I removed 2 screws 17 and 14mm on the bottom of the caliper then I started to remove the top one and clips and pins..
Then brake oil started to leak and when I placed the new pad, I found my old pads was still very good. I wonder why I grind my caliper and why the brake oil leaks?

I guess I need to call the tow truck if I can't figure that out.

It's been a while since I changed my pads & rotors, but I don't recall removing any 14mm bolts from the front calipers. You only need to remove the soft brake line bracket on the upper A-arm and the two big 17mm bolts that hold the caliper to the vehicle. After that, the caliper should swing completely free of the rotor/hub assembly. You should not have any brake fluid anywhere. I changed all my pads & rotors w/o having to bleed any of the calipers, and no leaks. BTW, make sure there are washers under those bolts. Mine were missing, and the only dealer that had them was CDan (had to ship them overnight for saturday delivery..$$$). For the rears, the two little bolts remove the caliper, the two bigger bolts remove the torque plate.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

The two bolts that hold the actual piston assembly on are 14mm. Those are all you need to remove on the front end to only change pads. The two others that hold the whole caliper on are 17mm's.

 

[ct005ke002]

Let me finish this post. the left gasket was broken causing oil leak.

I had a mechanic resurface the rotor repack the bearing and ordered a new cap. Everything back to norm.

He said the front cap was loose causing everything shifted a little ended up the caliper grinding the rotor.

He only charged me $100 labor plus the parts and he came to my house to do it. Cheaper than towing nice!