2002 Transfer Case Fill Port Broke in Half

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Oct 1, 2019
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I was working through gear oil replacement on her today. Front diff is smooth and fine. Rear smooth and easy, transfer case FML.

I removed fill and drain without issue. Cleaned, replaced drain plug and filled it just fine. The using torque wrench set to 27ft lb I’m attaching the fill plug and snap! The fill port (think that’s the name) snaps. The bottom piece fell to the ground and top appears to be still attached (see pics of pieces).

I have no idea if someone before me torqued it too hard or what. But I know I’m losing my mind.

Is there anything I can do outside of replacing the backside of the transfer case. I did some searching and looks like all the other posts are about stripping the bolt receiver vs. breaking it.

Thanks in advance.

181A3559-469F-40A9-AE77-16CD53DD0F27.jpeg


6D77002D-88F3-485B-A92C-3746EBC0C8AF.jpeg
 
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That's got to leave a pit in your stomach. The housing is aluminum, I don't know if it would be possible for that to be TIG welded, or if you are looking at sourcing a transfer case. Good luck!
 

kruisinkid

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wow. someone definitely went to town on that with an impact at some point. in all seriousness, JB weld in the near term. then start planning to replace the rear plate.
 
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Yea not sure what I can or should do short of replacing the damn thing. If I can find a TIG welder to take on the project, can I drive as is to get there?

I’ve never actually used JB Weld. How “short term” is that? Can it be driven? Wheeled? What are the limitations that won’t be long term issues?
 
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Yea not sure what I can or should do short of replacing the damn thing. If I can find a TIG welder to take on the project, can I drive as is to get there?

I’ve never actually used JB Weld. How “short term” is that? Can it be driven? Wheeled? What are the limitations that won’t be long term issues?
JB Weld should be considered a band aid. The concern would be how well it grips both surfaces, making it important that they are clean. It may hold for a good long while, but if it fails and it does so when you are on the road or off the road, far from home than it could get dicey.
 
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It will be some work, but I would recommend replacing that side plate as suggested above as the long term solution. You could probably source it pretty easy from a part out in the classifieds here on mud.
 
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It will be some work, but I would recommend replacing that side plate as suggested above as the long term solution. You could probably source it pretty easy from a part out in the classifieds here on mud.
good call on parts classifieds. I’ll start searching now. It’s the back though, right? Not side? I’m novice so want to limit the confusion with others.
 
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I can think of two approaches:
One, is to source a used Tcase and replace the part of the case with the drain in it.

Two, is to pull the cover and take it to the best Tig welder you can find and take their advice on if they feel a good repair can be made.

I was able to source a used tcase for $200.
 

kruisinkid

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toyota calls it the rear


edit: ^^^may be the wrong piece? though partsouq shows this piece is a large assembly that comes with both drain plugs. versus the one posted below...hmmmm

edit2: this does not contain the fill port, just drain.
 
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I believe you need this for the drain port:

1576373098009.png


I'd try to JB-Weld it via building up a big blob around the port, so it sticks to everything near the port (except for that one bolt head and the rearmost case cover that's right there). If it doesn't break right away under the torque of the bolt after curing I don't think it will (I'm not an expert though, and would recommend to eventually replace the part). Or if you know a super good welder, maybe he could weld it back & build up some material near it so it doesn't need to penetrate too deep.
 
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I believe you need this for the drain port:

View attachment 2156736

I'd try to JB-Weld it via building up a big blob around the port, so it sticks to everything near the port (except for that one bolt head and the rearmost case cover that's right there). If it doesn't brake right away under the torque of the bolt after curing I don't think it will (I'm not an expert though, and would recommend to eventually replace the part). Or if you know a super good welder, maybe he could weld it back & build up some material near it so it doesn't need to penetrate too deep.
Can you share a link to that? Cheapest I’ve seen it by $150 so far.

Interesting recommendation on JB approach. Thanks.
 
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Tough situation. In the near term, it's not going to loose enough fluid to cause an issue while you source a new case cover as long as you get some fipg on there to keep it from splashing out.

It's ghetto but would get you by for a bit.
 
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Or I don't know.. maybe it's the part that I've linked afterall? I think it is on 3rd thought. Sorry for not making up my mind:D

1576374072214.png
 
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