2002 LC Fuel Tank Replacement (1 Viewer)

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There are a number of excellent threads on replacing the fuel tank. My 2002 has a rotted skid plate and a hole in the tank that leaks when filled above 3/4. Found a tank and cradle at a Japanese make salvage yard in great shape. Getting ready to drop the old and install the replacement in the next few weeks. A few questions for the more experienced wrenchers:

1.) I cleaned the replacement tank inside as best I could with soapy water, rinsed and dried. There is still a yellowish film. Any suggestions on cleaning with a more aggressive method? Leave it as is?

2.) I bought replacement hardware, gaskets, clips, etc. to avoid dealing with old rusted parts. I did not buy replacement fuel lines. Should I buy new lines (or anything else I might not have thought about) to take of the fuel system one time and not have to drop the tank and cradle again?

Thanks for all of the great forum threads and advice. This is a project truck for my son and me to ramp up our mechanical knowledge and experience. We'll have it out in the wilds of Utah hiking, skiing, camping and I want to be able to troubleshoot common issues ourselves.
 

JunkCrzr89

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To minimize the likelihood of having to mess with the tank again in the future, consider taking it to a radiator shop and have it boiled and resealed before you install. That will also get the yellow film out from the inside. If the hard fuel lines are rusty or leaking, replace them, otherwise leave them be. Definitely install a new fuel filter and fuel pump.
 
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Fuel tanks fit a lot of years but the fuel pump assembly was swapped back and forth three total times so best to get a new fuel pump and reuse your current assembly.
 

kruisinkid

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regardless after rinsing with water, i like to rinse with a gallon of denatured alcohol. POR 15 also makes a fuel tank resealing kit but i havent used it. maybe its worth getting just for the cleaner agent or maybe they sell it on its own if you want to DIY.

i would replace any lines that require dropping the tank or skid. are they sectioned or is it one long solid line all the way to the engine bay? antiseize those skid bolts and hose that skid down inside and out with fluid film or the like.
 

87warrior

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I'd replace the rollover/vent tube assembly:
1599746355681.png


And the rollover valve:
1599746387890.png


And the fuel sending unit gasket:
1599746423039.png


Dropping the tank isn't real demanding on the 100. The first few pics of my LRA tank install thread for my 1999 shows removing the stock tank.

1599746547538.png
 
Joined
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Location
Utah
I'd replace the rollover/vent tube assembly:
View attachment 2431438

And the rollover valve:
View attachment 2431439

And the fuel sending unit gasket:
View attachment 2431440

Dropping the tank isn't real demanding on the 100. The first few pics of my LRA tank install thread for my 1999 shows removing the stock tank.

View attachment 2431441
87warrior, great stuff in your thread. I finished installing the replacement tank and the LC is running great. I used some existing lines and replaced others that were worn along with the fuel filter. I have not done the full tank cleanout as suggested above because I will be dropping the new tank to address some other corrosion issues over the winter. Looking at the Eastwood tank refresh kit.

Surprisingly, the biggest pain in the butt for this entire project was managing the stupid tank straps during installation Those things are uncooperative.

What came out of the truck . . .
Old Tank.jpg


Sandblasted the replacement . . .
Blasted tank.jpg


Finished tank before installation . . .

Replacement Tank.jpg
 

ClassyJalopy

Here we go again!
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Looks great!
Just for future reference how much did the replacement tank cost? How much time did you end up spending on the removal? On installation?

Thanks for sharing.
 

blinder52

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Your tank looks awesome. Not that you needed it, but I saw mention earlier of the POR15 tank sealer. I’ve used it on another car in which a new tank was not available. It works great.
 
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Utah
Looks great!
Just for future reference how much did the replacement tank cost? How much time did you end up spending on the removal? On installation?

Thanks for sharing.
I bought the replacement tank and skid plate from a Japanese make salvage yard for around $150 combined. It was in good shape with a little surface rust on the cradle and none noticeable on the tank. Had it sandblasted (see above pic) and used etch primer. I had several cans of Raptor Liner here and decided to use that on the tank (I realize this is overkill and $$ solution). It turned out great. I had 2 cans of white raptor that I used on the underside of the skid plate. I should be able to clean the plate and see any chips or cracks that result in rust forming against the white Raptor coating.

The removal did not take that long once I accepted that the pins were too rusty to remove. I was able to get to one of the bolts holding the strap and had to sawzall the other strap that was too tough to get to (the salvage yard included the straps with the replacement tank). I bought multiple OEM parts to replace those that were too far gone.

Installing the replacement was a challenge due to the straps. They are a pain. I talked to the service manager at a local Toyota dealership and he said this is a known issue with Toyota. He said it is a brute force process, not finesse. It takes two good technicians to manhandle the tank and pull the straps to get them in place. I set the pins first and stretched the straps to bolt in.
 
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Upstate NY
I am looking at a similar situation. Though my tank seam doesn't look like yours, my skid is the same (half gone). I had a shop give me a quote (I'm not feeling like tackling this repair) on finding and fixing a fuel vapor leak. They reported the strap bolts are rusted to nubs and are afraid to touch them. They leak is somewhere on top of the tank. Did you have any issue removing the strap bolts, were they very rusty compared to the condition of the skid nad tank? Thanks.
 
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Location
Utah
I am looking at a similar situation. Though my tank seam doesn't look like yours, my skid is the same (half gone). I had a shop give me a quote (I'm not feeling like tackling this repair) on finding and fixing a fuel vapor leak. They reported the strap bolts are rusted to nubs and are afraid to touch them. They leak is somewhere on top of the tank. Did you have any issue removing the strap bolts, were they very rusty compared to the condition of the skid nad tank? Thanks.
The strap hardware was in bad shape with the exception of one bolt. I was able to get that bolt out and had to cut the other strap to drop the tank.
 

blinder52

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To minimize the likelihood of having to mess with the tank again in the future, consider taking it to a radiator shop and have it boiled and resealed before you install. That will also get the yellow film out from the inside. If the hard fuel lines are rusty or leaking, replace them, otherwise leave them be. Definitely install a new fuel filter and fuel pump.
Do you think having the tank “boiled” would harm the plastic or synthetic frame attached inside the tank that the fuel pump assembly sets down into? I have a used tank to prep for install and trying to determine the best method the clean out.
 

JunkCrzr89

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Do you think having the tank “boiled” would harm the plastic or synthetic frame attached inside the tank that the fuel pump assembly sets down into? I have a used tank to prep for install and trying to determine the best method the clean out.
This? It’s removable.
3B800D55-76E6-425D-B949-BD3EC88AA657.jpeg
 

blinder52

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Well, no, what mean is the plastic or some kind of synthetic box that is bonded inside the tank that the pump assembly sets down into. I don’t want to damage it cleaning out the tank. (Thanks to 87Warrior for this swell hand-me-down tank to replace my rusty/leaky one.) The Por-15 kit looks good at least for the degreaser and prep solvent. Not sure if I want the paint/sealer.

F7BAC68A-1EE5-4B4E-B691-260B635D321B.jpeg
 

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