2002 100 series front diff clunk (1 Viewer)

[marcus2001]

I have a clunk when shifting from park to drive or reverse to drive. I have narrowed the noise to the front diff. A closer look showed when I lifted the front end and turned the front right tire about a 10-20 degrees; I saw no movement he output shaft of the front diff. I then poured the oil out and saw no sign of wear. Just in case I also checked the transfer case and saw no backlash also the U-joints look fine. Not sure what can cause this other then maybe the drive pinion came loose and increased the original backlash. I haven't pulled the front cover off, don't know if it will come off easily but that might be my next step anyway. Any thoughts?

Also I was looking for replacement diffs, I didn't see a compatibility list anywhere on Ih8mud, is there one?

Thanks Mark

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Worn splines on outboard CV shaft and hub flange. 2001LC has a some great posts about this. If you’re still on the original CV axles and/or hub flange, I’d bet there’s quite a bit of play in the splines where they go through the flange.

 

[RedHeadedStepChild]

Check the bushings at the diff mounts.

 

[boca1]

2001lc test video play at the CV shaft and hub flange

 

[cmassa]

Like the others have said, before you consider anything further in the differential, pull both hub flanges and check the splines in the flanges and on the axles. I bet they're worn. This is far more likely than any play in the front differential. Mine was doing the same thing and new axles and flanges fixed the problem completely since both were very worn. It's a good time to service the wheel bearings too.

Chris

 

[BamaCruzer]

Front diff mount bushings. Check those first. Mine on my 2000 were in horrible shape and clunked as you describe until I replaced them.

 

[marcus2001]

I checked the diff mounts. They need to be replaced. However, the majority of the movement is coming from the hub to shaft looseness. Curious do they make the hub with softer material so you only have to replace the hub and not the whole CV axle?
Any of the vendors here recommended to get this front end? I suppose the list would be an CV Axle, hub flange, bearing set (inner, outer and spline) and associated seals.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

I checked the diff mounts. They need to be replaced. However, the majority of the movement is coming from the hub to shaft looseness. Curious do they make the hub with softer material so you only have to replace the hub and not the whole CV axle?
Any of the vendors here recommended to get this front end? I suppose the list would be an CV Axle, hub flange, bearing set (inner, outer and spline) and associated seals.

As notes a few posts above, this is common cause. Hub flange *should* be replaced every time you repack wheel bearings, but it appears most don’t do so. Consequently, slop continues to develop as the splines on cv and flange both wear down.You’re likely now due for both new CV axle and hub flange, as the splines on both are now worn. See 2001LC’s threads in his signature.

 

[marcus2001]

Wow 2001LC has so many posts. He rebuilt a few vehicles. Outstanding that he documented it here.
I am still debating a new vs rebuilt cv axle. Maybe even rebuild the two I have taken off. Any vendors recommended?

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Wow 2001LC has so many posts. He rebuilt a few vehicles. Outstanding that he documented it here.
I am still debating a new vs rebuilt cv axle. Maybe even rebuild the two I have taken off. Any vendors recommended?

Rebuilding yours to serve as trail spares would prob be OK, but given the slop present, I’d wager that the splines are worn. Thus, even with a new hub flange, you’ll continue to have the clunk if you reuse your current CV axles. The rebuild only gives you new grease and boots. Rebuilt axles will also have worn splines...

 

[JunkCrzr89]

@marcus2001 See post #54 in this thread: Service: Wheel bearing, Steering Knuckle, Rack OE rubber mounting bushings, Ball joints W/Surprises!