2002 100 crank won't start (1 Viewer)

[landcrusha]

I had the same issue earlier this year and these were my diagnostic steps:

1) Take out the fuel pump and test it by wiring it up to 12V. You should hear it spin up and have a pretty nice "whirl" as its pumping.
2) Stick your key in the ignition and make sure that the security light near the radio turns off. If it does not, your key or ignition is bad
3) There is a 10amp EFI fuse which controls the the EFI relay. Replace this with a new one even if you don't see a break in the fuse inside. Try to start the truck after replacing. Many have had success with this route
4) Take out the EFI relay and test the ground and hot. If you have good 12v and ground then try to source another EFI relay and see if this is the source if your issue
5) Check for fuel by busting open the fuel rail or by taking off the feed line to the fuel filter. If you turn your key to "on" it should spew out fuel
6) check for spark by taking out the coil pack, reconnecting the connector and leave a spark plug connected to it and have somebody start the truck. Take out the EFI fuse or relay before you try and start the truck. You should see sparking.
7) Check your crank position sensor to see if it's been chafed by the serpentine belt. This is due to a bad previous timing belt job where the tech did not route the wire correctly and over time it rubs on the belt which causes a break in the wire. This ended up being my issue. I connected the wires back together and I finally got fuel to spit out with spark and ultimately start the truck

Report back with your findings after you have completed these tests. I tried to methodically list the steps in the best way possible.

So can I use any wire to connect the 12V to the pump?

Also I don't have a meter so I'll have to go get one will any one work? and how do I use it to test the EFI relay?

I tried to download the repair manual from the faq but it wouldn't load the page. I'm sure it would make all this easier, does anyone have another source to download from?

 

[perrobravo]

So can I use any wire to connect the 12V to the pump?

Also I don't have a meter so I'll have to go get one will any one work? and how do I use it to test the EFI relay?

I tried to download the repair manual from the faq but it wouldn't load the page. I'm sure it would make all this easier, does anyone have another source to download from?

Did you try here?

http://dustbird.com/ih8mud/FSM/

 

[landcrusha]

No I hadn't perrobravo, thanks man

 

[dambalasek]

Same thing happening on my 2001 right now. No firing no fuel flow. I check efd main relay, it was good. I check the ecu power from ignition and it was there. I cannot check the other voltages or say not sure because the FSN that i download is for a 2004. The ECM pin outs are a little bit different and wire colors are also different. The next thing i will check is the code from the transponder, since it doesnt stop blinking when the key is inserted.

 

[dambalasek]

Anyone here has ecu pinouts on earlier 100's? At least 2001's.
Also can anyone encounter this transponder problem blinking codes? Can anyone verify if the blinking codes from the 2004 FSM are the samse for 2001?

 

[r2m]

I know this may be after the fact and probably done when you get back from your moose hunt, but invest in one of those bluetooth dongles that plugs into your ECU and get the $5.00 software (Iphone or Android). It will give you codes if something is wrong, along with a wealth of information about your driving like exact speed, mpg, distance, intake temp., etc.

 

[landcrusha]

Still haven't got this thing sorted. So far I've checked for continuity in the relay, replaced the fuse, hooked a battery up to the pump (with it still in the tank) and heard it working. I cracked open the fuel line at the filter and had no gas come out during cranking, also had no gas come out during the test when I hooked up the battery to the pump, but I also probably didn't run it long enough to send the fuel all the way up there, I just did it shortly to see if it worked.

 

[ESLX]

Still haven't got this thing sorted. So far I've checked for continuity in the relay, replaced the fuse, hooked a battery up to the pump (with it still in the tank) and heard it working. I cracked open the fuel line at the filter and had no gas come out during cranking, also had no gas come out during the test when I hooked up the battery to the pump, but I also probably didn't run it long enough to send the fuel all the way up there, I just did it shortly to see if it worked.

Did you every get this figured out? I have a similar problem... No fuel at the fuel filter. I have 12 volts at the connector under the passenger side door (which then goes to the fuel pump). I haven't had a chance to check the voltage at the fuel pump (will do that in the AM). My Fuel pump reads 1.5 ohms (so that is in spec). I'll post what I find out.

 

[hondarepairman]

Don't put to much faith in that static resistance check. Better to do a voltage drop across the fuel pump while cranking. The pump should drop all of the available voltage give or take a few tenths.

 

[ESLX]

OK, I have done some reading of the factory manual and finally got to run some tests on my fuel pump.

Concerning reading of the factory manual - it states that the fuel pump runs in three stages, it has a high, medium and low - which is controlled by the ECU and the voltage the ECU sends to the fuel pump computer (via the FPC line). Voltage sent to the fuel pump is as follows: High is battery voltage (~12 VDC) when you are starting the vehicle; Medium is cruising down the road (~10 VDC); and Low is at idle (~ 8.5 VDC) - I don't have the manual in front of me so those are ballpark voltage numbers - I will double check them this evening when I get home.

Next, I was tired of cranking the engine to check for voltage at the fuel pump and discovered that if I take out the starter relay in the fuse block next to the battery and just put the key in the ignition, it would send 12 Volts to the fuel pump (NOTE: don't leave the key in for longer than 10 seconds because the factory manual says you can burn the coil in the pump out. Anyway, I had my son put the key in and out while I did some voltage checks.

Don't put to much faith in that static resistance check. Better to do a voltage drop across the fuel pump while cranking. The pump should drop all of the available voltage give or take a few tenths.

Thank You!

Here's what I got: (1) Fuel pump connector disconnected from the fuel pump: ~12 VDC at the plug; (2) Jumpered the fuel pump connector to the fuel pump with a meter in the line: (a) try #1: voltage dropped to ~8.5, no sound from fuel pump; try #2: heard the fuel pump for about 1-2 seconds, voltage at ~12 VDC, then pump sound went away and voltage dropped to ~8.5 VDC; try #3: same as #1.

So from what I have read (in the manual) and what I measured, I am pretty I have a fuel pump problem. I am going to try the tests once more when I get home this evening just to see if I can get the pump to work for another second or two. If anyone (hondarepairman) has any other ideas or comments I would like to hear them.

Thanks!

 

[ESLX]

Finally got around to changing out my fuel pump (that I got very quickly and at a very reasonable price from Beno! (Thank You!)). And it started right up. A side note, I put a little oil on the threads on the input of the fuel filter, tightened it down, and no leaks.

 

[landcrusha]

Sorry it's taken me so long to respond. I eventually gave up on trying to figure it out myself and took it into the shop. It ended up needing a new fuse box. Runs like a champ again.

 

[CharlestonG8R]

I know this may be after the fact and probably done when you get back from your moose hunt, but invest in one of those bluetooth dongles that plugs into your ECU and get the $5.00 software (Iphone or Android). It will give you codes if something is wrong, along with a wealth of information about your driving like exact speed, mpg, distance, intake temp., etc.

Do you have any recommendations for this bluetooth device? Do you have one that you use or a different one that you wish you'd gone with?

I tried the troubleshooting steps that were provided, but still couldn't isolate the issue... Just like landcrusha, my starter turns over strong, it just won't fire. It's intermittent but has happened a few times now - I had the truck towed to LexTech, but after a week, they can't duplicate the issue and want the truck out of their parking lot. Will pick it up in an hour or so and then wonder how long it will be before I get stranded somewhere...

 

[landcrusha]

Do you have any recommendations for this bluetooth device? Do you have one that you use or a different one that you wish you'd gone with?

I tried the troubleshooting steps that were provided, but still couldn't isolate the issue... Just like landcrusha, my starter turns over strong, it just won't fire. It's intermittent but has happened a few times now - I had the truck towed to LexTech, but after a week, they can't duplicate the issue and want the truck out of their parking lot. Will pick it up in an hour or so and then wonder how long it will be before I get stranded somewhere...

Hey not sure if you read the part where I updated this but mine ended up being the fuse box went bad. You can confirm this next time this happens by confirming you have power into the box, one you know you have juice to the box, you pull and check where the relays plug in, some might have power and some won't. That's at least how mine was confirmed

 

[CharlestonG8R]

Hey not sure if you read the part where I updated this but mine ended up being the fuse box went bad. You can confirm this next time this happens by confirming you have power into the box, one you know you have juice to the box, you pull and check where the relays plug in, some might have power and some won't. That's at least how mine was confirmed

Thanks! Yes, I'm planning to have a full toolbox including multimeter with me until I'm able to figure this out... So an internal short in the box, eh? I tried the relay fuse and that didn't work - and LexTech said the relay itself was good.

 

[landcrusha]

Thanks! Yes, I'm planning to have a full toolbox including multimeter with me until I'm able to figure this out... So an internal short in the box, eh? I tried the relay fuse and that didn't work - and LexTech said the relay itself was good.

Yep. Yours sounds like the same thing mine was doing until the last time it happened and it wouldn't start any more. Also if it does end up being the fuse box my new one didn't come with some of the relays but all mine where still good so they just needed switched over. So don't throw your old ones out you might need them

 

[r2m]

Do you have any recommendations for this bluetooth device? Do you have one that you use or a different one that you wish you'd gone with?

Here you go!

• Bluetooth Elm327 - Elm 327 - Car code reader / scanner - diagnostic tool - FOR OBD2 - OBD 2 - OBDII
• https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en

It looks like the price has gone down on those dongles! I paid $23 and some change with shipping and I'm seeing them now for under $16.00!

Hope this helps!

 

[HoiPolloi]

I had similar symptoms a couple years back. Fuses and relays checked out fine, but the contacts in the fuse box were a little dirty. I cleaned them (electronics cleaner, wire brush and compressed air) and it fixed the problem.

 

[PabloCruise]

Sorry it's taken me so long to respond. I eventually gave up on trying to figure it out myself and took it into the shop. It ended up needing a new fuse box. Runs like a champ again.

It needed a new fuse box?!? What year is your LC/LX? How many miles? That sounds crazy!

 

[Xetabur]

It needed a new fuse box?!? What year is your LC/LX? How many miles? That sounds crazy!

Wait until you see how much that new fuse box cost. lol