Builds 2001 LX470 everyday/4WD build/use (on the cheap) (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Mar 27, 2013
Threads
70
Messages
1,225
Location
Sedro Woolley, WA
I've posted a few threads in this section of mud - figured instead of creating more threads I will just try to keep my ongoings in one place.

For those that haven't seen me in the other sections.... definitely not new to Toyotas, not new to cruisers. We currently have an FJ40 that was an inop rust bucket that hadn't been registered in 30 years (that's it's own beast of burden). We had a 1993 3x locked with about 320k on the clock when we sold it last summer (mostly stock aside from some electronic upgrades, tires, front bumper/winch). I've had a lot of Toyotas, many of them "harder to find" or far less common. I tend to do things more "hands on" and I'm not always willing to just throw money at it. The FJ40 has a SBC/TH350 running on Megasquirt/TBI with an rpi/7" screen on the rollcage for real-time tuning.


Recently picked up a 2001 LX470. Has 192k miles on the clock. Seems to be relatively stock aside from the head rests being replaced with some video units. Looking to make this a family vehicle plus use for when it snows here (our neighborhood is difficult to traverse sometimes) and if we get around to offroad/camping, to tow the 40 out there.

So far we have:
Oil change (and checked the diffs) - during which I found a small amount of mouse damage, a vacuum leak that's now fixed, what appears to be a nasty power steering leak, and possibly needs a steering rack.
New battery
New hood strut lifts
Modified the factory Mark Levinson stereo to have an aux port in place of the tape deck
Pulled apart entire center console and cleaned up in/around/under it. Must have had at least a dozeon coffees spilled (literally the center console was almost impossible to pull out, along with each switch in the center console - the spilled liquids had acted as a glue. I had to use a metal pick to clean a majority of it out)
Ordered Lseat covers for the front
Ordered an eBay set of clear parking lights (ours are broken)
Add some USB chargers

I have on order an interesting/different type of switch panel, that I will assess when it gets here and if I like - install and share my thoughts.
 
Currently:

20180331_104257.jpg



Here is the link showing what/how I modified the radio:

Modifications to 01 Mark Levinson Stereo?
 
The radio mod is starting to bug me - it worked fantastically for about a day while I worked on the interior. That ran the battery low, the next day, the radio mod was working - just about to start the truck, and the battery went dead. No big deal, it wouldn't charge (along with signs it had been recently jumped) so we replaced the battery. The radio mod stopped working - so I pulled it apart and noticed the bending of the wire to fit it within the cage caused some issues with the soldering.

So - I tried a new method, using the R/L/G on the motherboard that directly connects to the pins on the tape deck.

This seemed to work, but not really. Same issues I was having previously - unless I do just the right combination (which I'm still not sure), my phone doesn't recognize that a 3.5mm jack is plugged in and just continues to play through it's own speaker. I got it to work once, it didn't sound all that great, and then couldn't reproduce it.

I'm 1/2 tempted to think it's an issue with the Belkin 3.5mm female end I'm using - I can't reason anything else that is the problem.
 
Well shoot.

I went to open the stereo again and try to redo the connections or review where I want to connect it - and upon disassembly, the faceplate/front slipped and the ribbon cable ripped apart in 2. Radio is DOA now.

So, I have a new stereo on order...
 
Parts/things are arriving faster than I have time to put towards the vehicle. I have been doing a lot of reading on these vehicles to I have a better understanding of what to expect.

There's possibility I'm having the spark plug backing out issue. Plan to swap the plugs and the boots - of course, Toyota tells me that they don't sell just the boots, but the entire coil packs. The parts guy acted like this is totally normal. So, aftermarket it will have to be.

I was in Toyota to get some coolant - as much as I personally don't like the red, the radiator in this vehicle was replaced recently and it has red. I did order the 84543 metal T's (found here https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000DCNGIS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1w) and with the factory clamps I'm less than pleased with them..... I need worm drive clamps as there is some swelling on the hoses causing them to leak. I should have just had some available... oh well.

20180410_191238-jpg.1674716


20180410_191238-jpg.1674717


This is the "other" switch I wanted. I didn't want to share until I knew that it would at the very least physically fit (in front of the shifter, to the left of the H/L shifter) - which, sideways, it will (and how I planned it). I can tell you I haven't determined if the serial 9 cable will clear underneath, but it seems like it will. I will be posting some photos of that soon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DNW8RP6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The biggest down side I see already is it actually has the writing on the face as shown in the ad. I expected that, but am less than impressed it's there. Not like it's touting a brand or model number, it's completely irrelevant.

The plan is to run a 12V switched to the controller (that's controlled/powered through a separate relay), and now I have a simple 6 port switch that's pre-installed.

I have a couple dual USB chargers - I was going to install only 1 up front, but it always seems that someone in the back (family/kids) need to charge something and the cords are just too short. I know, first world problems. I'm also hoping the 2.1A is enough to run a rpi3, but I'm less optimistic about that (I believe they need 3a, which is what I have in the FJ40).

Also, I mentioned the screens in the head rests were wired directly to a 12V outlet (front) and I don't like that. I don't know as much as I probably should about those - but the DVD player is in the drivers headrest, and I can hear it whirring/on even when nobody is in the back. This way when our 4 yo isn't back there, he's in trouble, or there's just no need - I can control it through the switch.

I will ultimately add some external lighting as well - which will run through this. That, however, will probably run through another relay, just controlled through the switch/controller.



The radio is on the way - and I've also been reading about that. I'm about 90% sure that the PO used an aftermarket radio. Ironically I thought the "Mark Levinson" radio was the upgrade, and I think it's the base. In reality it's just a Pioneer unit. I'm intrigued by there being 2 plugs in the back and Toyota only using a single 20 pin - I can only assume the other is for an external CD changer - even more strange I believe I found the port for that under the center console, but there isn't a cable in the dash. Not that I care/need it.

I'll be bypassing the amp just so I don't have to deal with it. I will say, bypassing the amp in the 1993 FZJ80 was far easier - you just ignore the plug to the amp and the other cable runs directly to the speakers, as if Toyota wired it dual.
 
Last edited:
Forgot to add - as for the radio surround.... a fellow friend car/toyota fiend..... well.... we're going to see about 3d printing our own.

If it turns out well and there's interest, then I'll talk to him about selling (he does have a side business, so isn't out of his realm) them at a reasonable price.
 
ditch those wheels... chrome 16's are no bueno. Congrats on your new truck... I have an 01 and its been a great vehicle.
 
They look to be factory wheels that were aftermarket chromed. Pretty common thing back in 01. My dad this on his 97 suburban. The company sends you chromed wheels and you send back your stock wheels.
 
We've agreed the chrome is no bueno. They are factory wheels. However, it's not a big concern at this time (given we are having septic system problems, getting an 8wk old puppy on Saturday, and my wife is 8 months pregnant.... AND the 40 needs work). So really right now it's about getting this ready for everyday use. We also have a 2017 Prius V for most everyday needs as well.

Vehicle has 192k.
 
Will post some photos/info (could be useful for other 01 LX with the Mark Levinson system).... but this was what I started with when pulling the seat....

20180412_092307.jpg


20180412_092808.jpg
 
The 2nd photo in the previous post is of the "high quality" install for the controller that runs the headrest screens.

So in preparing to install the aftermarket radio, I poured through thread reading about the wiring, and potential nightmare of identifying wiring at the amplifier, jumping wires between them, variances between the LX470 and the LC, variances between the 20 pin and 22 pin (etc). I've done extensive engine swaps and hand wired everything so this shouldn't be bad.

Kept coming back to this link:
Stereo Wiring: Land Cruiser / LX 470 (1998-02)
So I printed it off.

I ran 4 sets of wires from the stereo location down to the amp - this will be for the speakers. No big deal.


Pull the seat, pull the amp and start messing about.

I identify the first wire from S6 that I'm interested in - the ground - as everyone in just about every thread has had that issue first and foremost. Check for continuity and the pin is accurate - I clip it, preparing to jumper to the wire needed on S7.

I start to count pins on S7 - and notice my connector is NOT the same. Not even close.

So I do some investigative work - try to check continuity between the 4 big pins on the 20 pin (at the head unit) and the "S6" connector and my brain goes into "what if" mode.

The 4 pins on the 20 pin are larger than the rest - and only 3 pins are used. There are essentially 3 wires that any (modern - last 25 years) needs to run - that's 12V constant, 12V switched, and Ground.

One of the 4 pins is brown with silver dashes - the same as the ground down at the amp. With no "new" connections made - there's continuity to ground at that pin.

I then test one of the other "big" corner pins - there's 12V constant there.

Throw the keys to ACC, and the third "big" corner pin has 12V switched.


At this point I haven't made ANY connections between the stock amplifier plugs as the link I referenced requires.

In the attached photo - those 3 wires are cut from the stock HU 20 pin and run to the radio - if you look closely, the bottom right, only a ground wire is cut and there's no jumpers made between the amp cables.

Also attached is a shot of the 2 amp connectors, one is definitely NOT the "S7" as described in the link.

20180412_161058.jpg


20180412_193726.jpg
 
Don't throw the instructions away - the S6 connector is accurate out to the speakers (I checked connection location and wire colors - then clipped and ran those to the new speaker wire runs up to the head unit).

The 20 pin doesn't seem to match anything in the directions - however, the only other wire from the HU 20 pin I needed (realized this after everything was back together) was the power antenna. I ignored the pin locations - and thankfully Toyota (and Lexus models) all have the same color wire for this - which is Black with Red - no matter Toyota/Lexus, 20 pin, 22 pin (etc). Clipped, connected, and works.
 
While this is apart - I'm also working on installing the touch panel switches (haven't started that yet), the USB ports (front/back), and the aux port (for the stereo).

I only have photos of the front USB/aux port at this time. I wanted to put them in the "blank" cover on the right side of the wood grain area, to the right of the climate controls.

Popped that cover out - decided about where I wanted them - I clipped the backside "support" bars (to ensure my drilling goes in the direction I want). Covered the front in masking tape and went to work.

I should note - there's a hardened glaze of some sort over the front - which is highly prone to chipping. Luckily I noticed this on the USB port drilling of the first couple smaller pilot holes, so just took it slow after.

The Aux port I purchased has a short threaded collar on it - after I got the hole drilled, the plastic trim piece was too thick. I came back with a drillbit (kind of like a forstner bit) and drilled a flat backside to the aux-port hole in order to thin the trim - allowing the sleeve to thread in now.

20180412_165454.jpg


20180412_170742.jpg


20180412_170747.jpg


20180412_171221.jpg
 
Little update (things have been busy with the new GSD puppy)...

New rear door speakers ordered (cheap ones from Amazon - we don't play it loud, but currently the speakers there are terribly blown) and arrived. They are Boss 2 or 3 way 4". I had them in the 80 series and sounded good enough, my days of amps and subs are over.

My friend 3d printer the radio surround - he wasn't completely satisfied, so we threw it in, took some measurements, and he's going to try again. Joked about using his wood spool (it's a partial) and stain it to match, but I doubt he will. If it works and others like it - he'll be throwing it online as available in a variety of colors. No idea on any other details there.

The clear corner lamps for a cruiser (from eBay, about $45 shipped with bulb and holders) arrived as well. They seem to be a pretty good replica - and I'm planning to make a 4" mini adapter harness using the old bulb holders and some wire so, for now, I don't have to cut the stock harness.

20180417_142258.jpg


20180417_142310.jpg
 
I also ordered a parking brake bypass for the Pioneer deck we have - since we have the rear headrests (and the built in DVD player seems to be finicky - I need to look into this further & hopefully the switch isn't bad), the front could play DVD's and output to them if it turns out the DVD player (built in) is shot - but need to bypass the parking brake. It's no longer a simple ground and requires a pulse reading, which the $7 bypass I bought will do once wired in.



As a side note - I plan to install a reverse camera, and wanted to tie into reverse - I probed every pin/wire at the shifter and couldn't find a 12V nor a ground signal that takes place in reverse. If I have to I'll grab it at the tail lights, but I'd rather not. Thoughts?
 
I bought this one
RCA Video Cable,Chuanganzhuo CAR Reverse Rear View Parking Camera Video Cable With Detection Wire (10 M/33 FT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H3EZRM6?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
For the camera. I liked that the RCA and signal came in the same bundle, just needed to throw cable to the front
BTW, since I didn't want to take the carpet out I passed the cable under the truck and came up in the engine bay, then passed it into the cabin thru one of the holes I already had.
 
I tapped into a 12v reverse wire from the main harness behind the glove box. I found the info on mud when I did it a couple years. Do some searching and you should be able to find it.
 
I bought this one
RCA Video Cable,Chuanganzhuo CAR Reverse Rear View Parking Camera Video Cable With Detection Wire (10 M/33 FT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H3EZRM6?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
For the camera. I liked that the RCA and signal came in the same bundle, just needed to throw cable to the front
BTW, since I didn't want to take the carpet out I passed the cable under the truck and came up in the engine bay, then passed it into the cabin thru one of the holes I already had.

The radio I bought came with a reverse camera - I'm just having issues finding the reverse signal at the shifter.

I was focusing on Reverse, but I found Park, not Park, Drive, and Neutral, I think - and the shifter light wires. Surprises me there isn't a reverse signal at the shifter itself. Probably uses a 2 wire switch in the trans itself, which is pretty common (especially on manual Toyotas and transfercases)
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom