2000 Tacoma rear Elocking diff, swap into front axle of my 80 (1 Viewer)

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after scouring the internet and forums I could not come up with an answer, I have an opportunity to buy rear locking diff from a 2000 Toyota Tacoma for $300, it has 4:10 gears and is in good working order. I was wondering if this would bolt up to the front diff of ,y land cruiser? I have an open diff now and I have seen they can be altered for the e-locker. I found a few sites that spec the two and it looks really really close, the 3rd member comes complete with all the wiring and hook ups. Any thoughts? thanks!!
 
Short answer No - unless you are redoing your current steering system to some sort of High steer.

LC is high pinion - Tie Rod that connects both sides of the axle is in the right spot, taco is low pinion and your tie rod would not bolt back on as it would hit the diff
 
Not sure about swapping them in, but I probably paid less for my factory locked rig as it would cost just for front and rear ARB units, compressor, and gear setup (pulling the thirds myself). I think buying these rigs with factory lockers is a whole lot of bang for the buck. JMHO.
 
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Short answer No - unless you are redoing your current steering system to some sort of High steer.

LC is high pinion - Tie Rod that connects both sides of the axle is in the right spot, taco is low pinion and your tie rod would not bolt back on as it would hit the diff

He’s talking about pulling the third member out of a factory e-locked axle, and slapping that into his 80. You can’t swap a rear axle for a front axle and expect to have any steering.

To OP, no idea, however, taco is a much lighter rig, with much lower design tolerances. I do not think it’s going to have the same service life/reliability as the factory or aftermarket options, but it’s conjecture. However, if you buy the axle for $300, there is a strong market if alll the actuators are working. You could part out the axle and get a bit closer to which ever option best suits you.
 
He’s talking about pulling the third member out of a factory e-locked axle, and slapping that into his 80. You can’t swap a rear axle for a front axle and expect to have any steering.
Huh?? weigellj is describing the issue that swapping from a HP to LP third, which is what the OP is asking. Neither mention swapping axle housing or axles shafts, just thirds.

To OP, no idea, however, taco is a much lighter rig, with much lower design tolerances. I do not think it’s going to have the same service life/reliability as the factory or aftermarket options, but it’s conjecture. However, if you buy the axle for $300, there is a strong market if alll the actuators are working. You could part out the axle and get a bit closer to which ever option best suits you.
Where do you get this info from? The 8" Toy third is a very strong, precise third member that has been well proven over the decades.

Saying that the Taco or any other 8" has lower design tolerances than it's brother HP 8" 80 third is terribly incorrect information.
 
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Yes you can, but it isn't worth doing. It's the same weld, grind, drill and tap a couple holes and replace studs as swapping from an open to e-locked third process. As mentioned above you'll have to figure out steering as the tie rod will interfere with the third member now. In fact this has been done and posted somewhere in the forums.

Pass on the deal and get the correct locker, however you want to go at it.
 
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Where do you get this info from? The 8" Toy third is a very strong, precise third member that has been well proven over the decades.

Saying that the Taco or any other 8" has lower design tolerances than it's brother HP 8" 80 third is terribly incorrect information.


until you stick it in the front axle and its running backwards. the 8HP is stronger in the front than the 9.5 is in the front.
 
until you stick it in the front axle and its running backwards. the 8HP is stronger in the front than the 9.5 is in the front.

Yes a similar HP is stronger in the front than a LP.
How does this make the 8" LP have a lower design tolerance than a 8" HP?

Have you compared how much larger 9.5" R&P, bearings and housing is than an 8" Just because you drive the coast side of a 9.5 doesn't turn it into glass. I don't understand this logic, why do people swap LP Dana 60's in the front inplace of a HP30's or HP44's? Or go through the trouble of building front hybrid 9.5's after scattering HP 8"er's?
 
Y I don't understand this logic, why do people swap LP Dana 60's in the front inplace of a HP30's or HP44's? Or go through the trouble of building front hybrid 9.5's after scattering HP 8"er's?

aftermarket part options? the ability to bash on it in reverse? idk but when i exploded my HP8 it was on 37s, full throttle, on a hill and in rewind. snap!
 
Yes a similar HP is stronger in the front than a LP.
How does this make the 8" LP have a lower design tolerance than a 8" HP?

Have you compared how much larger 9.5" R&P, bearings and housing is than an 8" Just because you drive the coast side of a 9.5 doesn't turn it into glass. I don't understand this logic, why do people swap LP Dana 60's in the front inplace of a HP30's or HP44's? Or go through the trouble of building front hybrid 9.5's after scattering HP 8"er's?
Funny. The internals and especially the inner shafts of HP30's and HP44's are tiny in comparison to a D60. Not to mention the huge aftermarket support and parts availability that @slow95z mentioned
 
aftermarket part options? the ability to bash on it in reverse? idk but when i exploded my HP8 it was on 37s, full throttle, on a hill and in rewind. snap!
See, if you would have had the LP in the front it would of blown up before you had a chance to not blow it up in reverse!! :flipoff2::steer:
 

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