2000 Lx470 Timing HELP! (1 Viewer)

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Oct 12, 2020
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Location
Temple, Texas
Hey guys, the fan pulley recently was toasted and I decided to do the timing belt and water pump as well. I am unsure what to do at my current step and want to make sure before I mess something up. I have turned the crank to where the cams align, but you can see the balancer is advanced. Should I move the crank to 50 degrees then move the crank wheels to match the aligned marks to place the car back into normal alignment?? Thanks in advance everyone, it is pretty time-sensitive so I can't comb through places.

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I feel like the belt was stretched or skipped at some point, the marks on the belt are not aligned with the cam and when I put the crank in line with 50 degrees the cams look to be aligned correctly
 
Man, follow the factory service manual instructions by the word. Don't just try to slip the belt on where you think it belongs. Notice how one cam pulley has an outer lip on it but the other doesn't? Thats so you can out the belt on the lipped cam pulley first, rotate things to tension a little, and then slip the belt over the lip-less pulley. I can't remember all the details right now. But if you don't go by the book, you end up constantly rotating stuff just a hair and throwing it off before you get things in place perfectly.
 
I feel like the belt was stretched or skipped at some point, the marks on the belt are not aligned with the cam and when I put the crank in line with 50 degrees the cams look to be aligned correctly
If the crank is at 50, the timing marks on the cams should point at the "T" marks. Some here will tell you this is sacrilege, it is not in the FSM - but it unloads the spring pressure on the cam from the valve springs and makes it SO much easier. Make sure the arrow mark on the belt points towards the front of the truck. Put the belt on the driver's side cam sprocket, and the crank gear. Then, back the passenger side cam gear back a touch with a socket wrench to match the mark on the belt and the belt will slide right on. Put in the tensioner and check everything, the tension will pull the belt back to the "T" mark on the passenger side. Double check the marks on the crank gear line up right and the cam marks still are on the "T"s, and you should be lined up and good to go. Since it is a 2000, spin the motor over a couple of times by hand after you are SURE it is all lined up just to double-check yourself.
 
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If the crank is at 50, the timing marks on the cams should point at the "T" marks. Some here will tell you this is sacrilege, it is not in the FSM - but it unloads the spring pressure on the cam from the valve springs and makes it SO much easier. Make sure the arrow mark on the belt points towards the front of the truck. Put the belt on the driver's side cam sprocket, and the crank gear. Then, back the passenger side cam gear back a touch with a socket wrench to match the mark on the belt and the belt will slide right on. Put in the tensioner and check everything, the tension will pull the belt back top the "T" mark. Double check the marks on the crank gear line up right and the cam marks still are on the "T"s, and you should be lined up and good to go.
I'm pretty sure that's exactly what the FSM tells you to do, and what I was halfway describing, but nobody ever mentions it in write-ups for some reason.
 
In the photos you show, both cams are in sync with each other at at TDC (good). The crank 15 degrees out of sync (oops). Everything should be at TDC together, every 2 rotations of the crank = every 1 rotation of the cams. How you get there is up to you. I'd just assemble at TDC, but I don't think that is what the manual says to do.

EDIT: Alternatively, if elect to do this at some point OTHER than TDC - it is important that you use the marks on the new belt. The stripe on the belt should match the timing marks on the indicated cams - so 2 teeth different than you have it. And IIRC the 2 lines on the belt bracket the hole in the crank pulley & the single line points at the dimple.

There are tons of threads on this. Here is one:
 
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If the crank is at 50, the timing marks on the cams should point at the "T" marks. Some here will tell you this is sacrilege, it is not in the FSM - but it unloads the spring pressure on the cam from the valve springs and makes it SO much easier. Make sure the arrow mark on the belt points towards the front of the truck. Put the belt on the driver's side cam sprocket, and the crank gear. Then, back the passenger side cam gear back a touch with a socket wrench to match the mark on the belt and the belt will slide right on. Put in the tensioner and check everything, the tension will pull the belt back to the "T" mark on the passenger side. Double check the marks on the crank gear line up right and the cam marks still are on the "T"s, and you should be lined up and good to go. Since it is a 2000, spin the motor over a couple of times by hand after you are SURE it is all lined up just to duoble-check yourself.
You can see the above visually here:
 
Thanks for all the quick help and replies everyone, it is much appreciated! I have taken note of the FSM and all the advice and will get back with an update shortly!
 
I was checking because I am on the removal stage, the location of the belt is not where I have placed the belt, but where it was from the PO!
 
I was checking because I am on the removal stage, the location of the belt is not where I have placed the belt, but where it was from the PO!
Oh I see, I thought you were trying to install and couldn't get it back into the right alignment. Yeeeeahhhh, the PO mighta screwed up or it slipped at some point, but I'm not gonna make that call. Maybe it'll run even better now when you're done?
 
Just to clarify, here's the FSM showing proper alignment of all three marks, and I believe your PO done F'd up and had it 15 degrees off.
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Also - replace the coolant bypass hoses on the front of the engine while you have everything off, the ones going from the water pump down to the oil filter housing, and the one going from the oil filter housing back to the driver's side of the block. No one does this, and they are 2 decades old, and they are right there when you are doing the timing belt.
 
I was checking because I am on the removal stage, the location of the belt is not where I have placed the belt, but where it was from the PO!
Once you rotate the engine, the belt markings will not perfectly line up. Markings are for setup only.
The cam/crank markings are the gospel after the engine rotates.
 
Once you rotate the engine, the belt markings will not perfectly line up. Markings are for setup only.
The cam/crank markings are the gospel after the engine rotates.
Brilliant! I was able to get it together correctly and have double checked the timing marks, all line up correctly!
 
In op: picture looks like timed to the "T"'s WRONG!

Keep in mind the "T"'s are not timing marks, when harmonic balance (HB) timing mark at 0 (zero on lower timing cover) or using hard marks (HB and lower cover off).
The "T" is used when HB timing mark is on the small plastic nub of lower timing belt cover just past the 0 (zero).

To test if it is timed properly. Start with all marks lined up: i.e HB on 0, each cam on mark I (not "t"). Turn crank 720 CW. All mark line up back up (belt marks will not)


Hard marks of crank
Timing Belt 06LC 194K 050.JPG

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Cam timing mark
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